January 2 . 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
205 
heated by one alone, or, in case of accident, one is at all 
times available. The circulation is regulated by means of 
stop cocks, and is perfectly under the control of the gardener; 
and the rapidity with which it circulates through small pipes 
(one-inch), by which it is connected with the four-inch 
pipes, is very rapid indeed. I consider it a most ingenious 
and efficient mode of heating.— Henry Barnes, Park Hall, 
Chesterfield. 
DESTROYING INSECTS AND MILDEW ON 
TREES. 
I saw, in your number of the 12th of December, the cor¬ 
rosive sublimate recommended against mildew on wall-trees, 
as well as against insects. As the writer is not aware what 
quantity of corrosive sublimate should be used to a given 
quantity of water, I would recommend a more definite 
remedy to those that are much troubled with mildew, 
Green fly, and other insects, on their trees, both in and out- 
of-doors. Let them wash their trees well with these in¬ 
gredients, and they will find it a great preservation to their 
fruit-trees, keeping them free from insects of all kind, 
especially Red Spider from their Vines. 
1 lb. of tobacco. 
1 lb. of black soap. 
1 lb. of sulphur flowers. 
J lb. of glue. 
2 ozs. nux vomica in powder. 
1 gill spirit of turpentine. t 
Mix in two Scotch pints of water (equal to nearly six 
English pints) ; boil half-an-hour, and apply it to the Vines 
or trees milk warm. If you find room for this, recipe, 
perhaps it may be of some use to those that are infested 
with the mildew, Green-fly, and Red Spider. I have used it 
myself for some years, and I never found it to fail with me. 
—B. W. 
near to the surface, by covering the surface with slates or 
tiles for a couple of days, and quickly removing them before 
you apply the lime-water. Several applications may bo 
necessary, before all are reached. Caro should be taken to 
use well aired soil, free from worms, in winter, as they do 
more harm than in summer.] 
A GREENHOUSE AND ITS CLIMBERS. 
“ I intend building a greenhouse thirty feet long, by 
fifteen feet wide, by twelve feet six inches high at back, and 
six feet in front, with lean-to roof, and I write, hoping you 
will give me your advice relative to a border for climbing 
plants in it, for which I have a great love; my difficulty is, 
how to arrange the flues so as not to make the border too 
warm, as I fear would be the case, if I carry the flue under 
the front shelf, as is generally done. 
“I, at present, intend to have a shelf in front, twenty 
inches to two feet wide; next to that a walk; and then a 
stage formed of earth or ashes, supported by bricks similar 
to those described by Mr. Fish (Cottage Gardener, Sept. 
20 th, 1851). 
“ I want to be able to keep one end of the house mo¬ 
derately warm in winter, so as to bloom some of my 
Camelias and Azaleas early. The front aspect will be s.s.e., 
and, from certain circumstances, the fire-place will have to 
be made about in the centre of the back-wall, somewhat in 
the manner of rough sketch, the hands showing the passage 
Dwelling - house 
opening into 
greenhouse. 
QUERIES AND ANSWERS. 
GARDENING. 
ORCHARD-HOUSE FACING THE WEST. 
“ I wish to erect an Orchard-house, and should much 
prefer a span-roof. The situation of my ground makes it 
impossible to make the house run south and north without 
cutting my garden into shreds and patches, and I shall be 
obliged by your opinion as to whether a span-roof will suit, 
where the house must run either south-east and north-west, 
or south-west and north-east, either of which situations I 
can give it. Please to answer in The Cottage Gardener, 
to—A.” 
[We have no doubt that the position of your house will 
answer well. The sun will strike through it from almost 
every direction, and we should have no hesitation on the 
subject. We hope you will succeed, even beyond your 
j expectation.] 
DRIVING WORMS FROM A BARK-BED. 
| 
“ I have a hothouse made last spring (heated with flues 
in the usual way), with a pit for growing Cucumbers; tan 
for bottom-heat (of course, mould on top) and produced a 
splendid crop last season. I have now added fresh tan to 
the old. Bly plants have been in eight or ten days, and I 
now find that the soil is quite overrun with worms, and 
which, I much fear, will injure the plants, and, perhaps, 
ruin them altogether. I have been afraid of using salt lest 
I should injure the plants. Can you kindly inform me how 
I can destroy these worms ?— An Old Subscriber.” 
[Put two handfuls of quick lime in a large pail of water, 
let it remain until it is quite clear, pour it off, and if it 
tastes strong, when you apply it to the tip of your tongue, 
make two pailfuls of it, and see that in addition to being 
clear, it is of a temperature of about 80°, so as not to hurt 
the roots of your plants. Wherever that lime-water fairly 
i reaches, your worms will soon bo turned into manure. If you 
. should bo afraid, and it is a little dangerous, thoroughly to 
soak the soil at this season, entice your slimy opponents 
of the draught. I shall be further obliged by a list of the 
eight or ten best climbers for planting in this house. 
“ I thank you and your very excellent staff for the enjoy¬ 
ment I have had in trying (and in some respects with con¬ 
siderable success) to carry out their instructions.—H. F. T.” 
[There can be no objection to any of your arrangements. 
The flue will answer admirably, and the position you propose 
will secure you much heat at one end of the house. The 
stage will save many a watering you would require to give 
if the plants stood on wood. The climbers are easily 
managed ; plant them in the middle of the house, in proper 
soil, allowing them to run over the space below your ashes 
or sand, or better still, in large pots, or little brickbats, so 
that the roots may be under control; train them with a 
single stem until they reach the rafter, and then take up or 
down, right or left, as you please. See an article of last 
week. The following would suit you :— 
Iponne Learii at the warm end. 
Mandevilla suaveolens. 
Passiflora ccerulea racemosa. 
„ Colvillii. 
Tacsonia pinnatistipula. 
Kennedya Marryatta 1 . 
Hardenbergia Comptoniana. 
„ macropliylla. 
Jasminum gracile.] 
TREE VIOLET CULTURE. 
“ Early in November I brought several plants of Viola : 
arborea into my greenhouse. In this greenhouse, Erica j 
gracilis, Scabriuscula, Ac., Correas, Tree Carnations, &c., j 
are flowering, and looking well. I give them free air 
when the weather permits, and no artificial heat unless i 
necessary. 
“ The plants of Viola arborea, when taken in, were very j 
healthy, and covered with buds, which, instead of expanding, 
withered, and the plants appear sickly ; there is now a fresh 
succession of buds, but they will, undoubtedly, follow the 
same course; this disappointment has occurred to me the I 
two last years. I have consulted several friends, but j 
received no advice to meet the case. i 
