THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
January 23. 
Chironia linoides; Jasminum azoricum. We mention 
these; but, grow them how you will, they would make 
a poor show in a large window, beside such Fuchsias as 
Banks’ Glory, Voltigeur, and Dr. Lindley—among the 
darks; and England’s Glory, Duchess of Lancaster, 
and Prince Arthur—among the whites; and all cheap 
enough ; and for older and younger plants, such a tribe 
may adorn a window from the middle of June to the 
middle of October. Achimenes will also do. 
SEPTEMBER. 
Salvia spleudens; Begonia Evansiaua; Plumbago 
Capensis; Liliura rubrum; Lilium speciosum; Gla¬ 
diolus Gandavensis. The late-flowering Gladioli would 
make a fine show in a window, in this and part of the 
following month, such as Pscittacinus, Natalensis, &c., 
while Ramosus, Formossissimus, Bolvillii, &c., would 
bloom in pots, in June, July, and August. Scarlet 
Geraniums, florist and fancy Pelargoniums, struck, or 
stubbed back in spring, and stopped in July, will make 
nice flowering plants for this mouth, aud so will Fucbias, 
propagated in April. 
OCTOBER. 
The Geraniums alluded to above; young Fuchsias ; 
Salvia fulgens, and shrubby Calceolarias of various 
kinds, along with Gladioli, will make a good show 
this month. Tea Roses, kept in rather a shady place, 
will also be useful. The Pompone Chrysanthemum, 
named Hendersonii, will be fit for the window by the 
end of the month. 
NOVEMBER. 
Fuchsia serratifolia; Fuchsia cordifolia; Coronilla 
glauca; Myoporum parvifolium; Epacris impressa; 
double Chinese Primrose. For this month, and the 
greater part of the next, nothing can exceed in beauty 
the Pompone Chrysanthemums. Look back to page 
146, and you will find a list of the very best, from 
Mr. Beaton. 
DECEMBER. 
Leonotus Leonoras, almost too coarse for a window; 
Chinese Primroses; Watsonia corymbosa; Daphne 
odora; Unique Pelargonium; Scarlet Geraniums; 
Cinerarias coming in; Epiphyllum truncatum, if green¬ 
house at all comfortable; Mignonette, Violets, and 
Camellias bursting their buds. 
From the above, many will be able to select according 
to their conveniences; and though going over beaten 
ground, I will, to please “ Flora,” give a running com¬ 
mentary on the culture necessary. 
Azalea. —Grow entirely in heath-soil. Give them an 
average of 40° at night, in winter ; do not let them get 
dry; increase the water as the buds swell, and give 
plenty when in bloom; remove every trace of bloom 
when faded; place the plauts in a close place in 
the greenhouse, and sprinkle overhead, to encourage 
growth; when the young shoots are an inch in length, 
give more air, and full sunshine to set the flower-buds; 
potting will not be needed often. 
Acacia.— I forgot to mention the golden-flowered, 
dark-leaved Armata. The culture is simple. Loam 
and heath-soil, a little pruning after blooming, growing 
in greenhouse, and placing out-of-doors in August and 
September. 
Coronilla, Pittosporum, Swainsonia, &c., all the green¬ 
house plants mentioned, may be treated in much the 
same way; peat and loam to grow them in ; attention 
to the rules for watering often, and lately given; a 
pruning according to the nature of the plant as soon as 
flowering is over; a keeping closish, if possible, for a 
short time afterwards, and sprinkling the top frequently 
to cause free growth, in preference to too great delugiugs 
at the roots, and then more air and exposure to sun to 
315 
harden the wood made. Almost all the kinds mentioned 
are such as this general treatment will suit; aud if so 
treated, they will come into bloom nearly at the times 
indicated, though the course of culture, and the period 
at which these operations are performed, will change 
and regulate the time of blooming. For instance, here 
is a plant very much pot-bound; it receives a slight 
pruning after flowering, and when the young growth is 
half-an-incli in length, it gets a larger pot, aud being 
kept closish, and a little shaded for a few days, it never 
feels the change, and will blow quite as soon, and better 
than in the old pot. But there is another exactly 
similar, but it gets no fresh pot. By-and by, perhaps 
two or three months afterwards, the owner does not like 
its appearance, and resolves on giving it more feeding 
ground, just on the same principle as be takes up the 
hurdles and gives a fresh piece of pasture to bis calves 
in the meadow, and the consequence is, that if he gives 
the plant increased luxuriance, it is often at the exponse 
of throwing the flowering period much later than that 
of the other plant, and, in many cases, rendering the 
blooms for that season very scanty. As a general rule 
to obtaiu variety and neatness, and as much bloom as 
possiblo in little space,—plants intended for windows 
should be kept in small pots. 
Daphnes .—These beauties for a window should be 
treated much the same as an Azalea or Camollia; get a 
start to grow after blooming, and after the wood “ is 
made,” and getting a little firm, like the Camellia, they 
will bo much benefited by full exposure to the sun out- 
of-doors in the end of July, August, aud September 
The old odora is the easiest to manage. The rubra is 
generally grafted on it, or the common Spurge Daphne. 
Cyclamens .—The treatment has been often given— 
The great things are, to give them a sufficient quantity of 
water, when growing, and just as much as will keep them 
dryish, but not dry, when in a dormant state. After 
flowering, and after May, they will be better plunged in a 
sunny spot out-of-doors than in a house. Nothing is 
better suited for a window. 
Bidbs .—Those mentioned, such as Narcissus and 
Hyacinths, &c., should be potted as soon as possible in 
November. The Hyacinths singly in four-inch pots ; 
the Narcissus in five or six-inch pots; and the Tulips. 
Jonquils, &c., three or four in a five inch-pot. These 
should be covered over with ashes out-of-doors, or kept 
in the dark in a warm cellar, or in a cupboard, not far 
from a fire. The covering over them of a few inches 
will keep them damp enough, without watering; aud 
the earth will soon be filled with roots. When the tops 
begin to grow, remove them to the warm end of the 
greenhouse. If the greenhouse is near the dwelling- 
room, the flowering will be hastened if the pots were 
moved to the mantle-shelf at night, to raise the flower- 
stems by the greater heat. The same process would be 
advisable for getting the flowers early, with nothing but 
a window for growing and display. 
Balsams .—These may bo obtained in good order with 
the assistance of either greenhouse or window, by defer¬ 
ring sowing until towards the end of April; and being 
provided with a square of glass to put over the seed-pot. 
Calceolarias .—Shrubby kinds of these, from cuttings 
struck in October, will flower nicely in pots during the 
spring months. Old plants kept over the winter will 
bloom earlier and more massive. Plants struck in 
April and May, frequently stopped during the summer, 
and kept in a cool, rather shady place until October, 
will bloom either in greenhouse or window in the early 
winter months, I can hold out no great inducement to 
sow seeds of herbaceous kinds in spring, as the weather 
would be getting too hot for them, when they were getting 
to their best. By sowing in September,nice, little, healthy 
flowering plauts will be obtained in April, May, and June. 
I have frequently mentioned how small the seed is; how 
