THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
January 30. 
344 
mode of doing it, and would, when done, be worth going to 
the expence of having a stock-hole, and either a flue or a 
small boiler for it. At its contemplated size, wo would not 
have a stock-hole if wo could heat in winter either from 
the mansion or from a jet of gas heating a small copper, or 
even a tin boiler. Mind, no gas must get into the house; 
and, we may add, that we have no faith in any portable stove 
to stand inside, however praised and patented.] 
CLIMBERS EOR A GREENHOUSE. 
“ I have, in my greenhouse, above the stage where I have 
my blooming plants, three rods, four inches apart and 
twelve feet long. I have seen in a catalogue, a now Pnssi- 
flora called Shepherdi , recommended for greenhouses. Now, I 
wish to ascertain, if I could, from a pot on the stage, train 
this plant to the rods ; and as T could not afford to let the 
plant hang down, bocause it would come in the way of the 
plants underneath, the question is, whether I could do justice 
to the plant by keeping it tied to these rods; and would it 
flower well next summer if procured now ? If your answer 
is favourable, would you please state the sized pot you would 
recommend, and the soil to plant in ? Last summer I 
trained Tropceulum Moritzianum , and Thunbcrgia nlata, with 
Iponuea Buridgii and Ccerulea .; but I wish to have a change 
for the better, as my place is small. I like something showy, 
but of course good. Would you please also to state what are 
good bedding-out annuals, their names and colours, with 
height ? and you will much oblige—J. G.” 
[We are not acquainted with the Passion-flower of which 
you speak. If so new, we could give you little hopes of its 
flowering well the ensuing summer. If you bought it, and 
grew it in peat and loam during the summer, giving it more 
pot-room as it wanted it, we could give you good hopes for 
1850. You would require a pot for it then from twelve to 
fifteen inches in diameter. Although it would do on the 
rods, it would not look so pretty as when dangling. A good 
strong plant of Ipomcea Learii would suit you, and so would 
Mandevilla suaveolcns. For a summer ornament, nothing 
could beat a mixture of the white, orange, and yellow Thun- 
bergia, only the Red Spider must be looked after. For winter, 
the Habrothamuus elegans would be a gem. Bedding annuals 
will receive notice ere long.] 
THE CHRISTMAS ROSE. 
“ Will you be so good as to give us the particulars of the 
culture of the ‘ Christmas Rose; ’ that is, what is the site and 
soil suited to it. We were desirous of having them near the 
house, on a terrace very much exposed to a southern sun, 
very dry in summer, but they' do not thrive there.— An Old 
Subscriber.” 
[We arc sorry to be able to give you no encouragement 
for growing the Christmas Rose; on your dry, exposed 
terrace-border a little loamy soil would help it, even though 
it had a little clay in it, by keeping moisture near it. But 
the place which the plant loves is not so much particular 
soil as a damp, shady position. The best thing you can do, 
is, therefore, to move your favourite plants to such a position, 
and they will soon thank you. We hope the next question 
you ask we shall be able to give you better encouragement.] 
VINES BREAKING SLOWLY. 
“You will much oblige by informing me how long a time 
Vines should be before they break after starting. I started 
mine about the Pith of December; the first three weeks 
at 45° by day, and 40° at night, and now I am keeping them 
00° by day and 55° by night. I keep them very moist at all 
times, and shall do so until I perceive them start. Have I 
anything to fear ? They were started before Christmas, 
and I think they never ceased growing as I should have 
wished them. I pruned them after the first hard frost and 
I saw no signs of sap.—A Top Sawyer.” 
[You have no reason to be alarmed; let the Vines take 
their time ; get every bud broke before you rise higher than 
00°. See that the roots are protected from cold.] 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
Fungcs on Gold Fish. —Caroline says that a confectioner cured his 
by putting them into some water with which his preserving pan had been 
washed, but she does not say what the preserve was which had been in 
the pan. The acid of the fruit must have been the remedy, if this 
be true. 
Spanish Fowls tukning White (H. T. G .).—This is frequently the 
case. We have heard of a black Spanish hen becoming white spangled 
with black, and at a subsequent moult becoming all black again. 
Downies new Bee-hive. —Bromley wishes to know where these 
can be obtained. 
Caged Birds (Argus ).—In our early Volumes there are very full 
directions for their management, and some particulars about Canaries. 
Commence breeding at the end of March. A cock and a hen bird are 
best, but if you wish to have two hens mated with him you must keep 
the ladies by themselves all the winter in a large cage that they may 
become attached. We know of no really good separate work on the Canary. 
CALENDAR FOR FEBRUARY. 
FLOWER-GARDEN. 
Anemones, sow ; finish planting, b. and e. Annuals (Tender), sow 
in hotbed; admit air to daily ; water slightly; cover with mats the glasses 
at nights ; sow seeds of blue and white Campanula carpatica in heat, for 
autumn-flowering, e.; pot old plants of each, and put in heat for cuttings, 
b. ; sow Nemophila , and other Californian annuals , to flower after 
autumn-sown ones ; (Hardy) sow in borders, e. ; for early blowing, sow 
in pots in a hothouse. Auriculas, dress, and attend carefully those 
under glass, as the buds appear. Biennials (Hardy), sow, e. Bulbs, 
finish planting, Carnations, plant, and shelter from cold winds. 
Dahlias, sow, and place tubers in hotbed, to break buds for slipping. 
Dress borders generally. Edgings of Box, &c., may be planted and 
repaired. (See January). Cut round the roots of evergreens, to remove 
about next July. Evergreens removed last autumn may have liquid- 
manure in fine weather. Evergreens, plant in mild weather, e. Grass, 
roll and sweep weekly. Gravel, roll, and weed in dry weather, weekly, 
and try the concrete system. Hedges (Deciduous), plant, b. ; (Ever¬ 
green) plant, e. Hyacinths, shelter, for they begin to appear. Mig¬ 
nonette, sow in pots, and place in hotbed, or hothouse, and green¬ 
house, for succession. Neatness, attend to everywhere. Perennials 
(Hardy), sow, e.; plant suckers, slips, and partings of roots; (Half- 
hardy) uncover, if frosts gone. Planting of flowering shrubs, com¬ 
plete. Polyanthuses, sow: earth-up with rich compost. Potted 
Shrubs, prune, shift, and dress the soil; pot off bedding Geraniums, 
&c., from stove pots. Ranunculuses, finish planting, b. and e. Roses, 
prune strong ones, and leave some to prune in April for late flowering ; 
manure with cow-dung. Sowing of tree and shrub seeds, complete 
generally. Support, with stakes, &c., newly-planted shrubs. Tulips, 
shelter as they are now appearing. Turf may be laid, and see that 
plants are in heat for cuttings , such as Lobelias , Verbenas, &c. 
Climbers, such as Honeysuckles and Jasmines, should be pruned and 
trained in the early days of the month. Reduce to moderate sized patches 
such plants as phloxes, asters, veronicas, See., otherwise they will occupy 
too much space, injure their neighbours, and harbour vermin. Herba¬ 
ceous plants should be planted out from nursery-beds into the borders 
without delay. Half-hardy shrubs, &c., may have their shelters partially 
removed, closing them up again at night, according to the mildness or 
inclemency of the season. - D. Beaton. 
GREENHOUSE. 
1 'Air, admit freely among hard-wooded plants, such as Ericas, Epacris 
Diosma, See., when the atmosphere is clear, and the outside temperature 
from 35° to 40°. In damp, foggy, or frosty weather, it is better to use 
little firing, and keep the house more close, unless you have the means 
of heating, and so far drying the air before it is admitted—the drying, of 
course, to take place only when the air is loaded with moisture. When 
the fog gets into the house, light a little fire and give air, and it will soon 
be dispersed All these plants will now want more water, but do not give 
it in dribblets ; after doing it thoroughly, wait patiently until the soil is 
getting dry. Those in full bloom may have similar treatment, especially 
if the sun will raise the house to 55°. Those swelling and opening their 
heads must not be lower than 45°, with 10° or 15° more in the middle of 
the day. Azaleas and Camellias, place those swelling and bursting 
their buds in the warmest end of the house, and you may remove them 
to the coldest end when in bloom. Supply such rather liberally with 
water. Those to be retarded, keep as cool as possible, and not so moist. 
Bulbs, Cinerarias, and Primulas, in flower, assist with manure- 
water ; the double Chinese Primula give a warm corner, as it is (especially 
the white) a splendid object when well grown. The night temperature 
of these should not be below 45°, if desired to keep them in full bloom, 
with 10° more in the middle of the day. Cinerarias, for blooming, do 
best at this season in small pots ; those desired to make fine specimens in 
May and June, should not now be allowed to be pot-bound, or be stunted 
any way, but kept slowly growing- Forsythia viridissima, Deutzia 
scabra, and Weigeliu rosea will yield their blossoms during this and the 
following month if slightly forced. Forced hardy shrubs keep at the 
warmest end of the house at first. Begonia obliqua makes a fine con¬ 
servatory plant in winter, if the night temperature is seldom below 45°. 
Calceolarias and Geraniums, keep at the best place for light and 
heat. All these soft-wooded plants require more heat than the hard- 
wooded ones; the former shift as necessary. The forwardest of the 
latter, stopped and shifted before Christmas, tie out and train. Place in 
flowering-pots those stopped some time ago, and now breaking ; and 
stop more young plants for succession, to be shifted when the buds have 
broken a^ain. Franciscea latifolia and uni flora, do well in a conserva¬ 
tory at this season, if they had previously received a little extra heat, 
after being allowed to become deciduous in the beginning of winter, the 
wood being well-perfected previously. Fuchsias, start some favourite 
kinds, if you can, in a nice, sweet, slight hotbed, as at this season they 
stand a little bottom-heat well, though, when fairly started, a medium 
temperature makes better plants than a high one. Cut them well 
down, and thin the shoots afterwards, to as many stems as you may 
require. The young shoots taken off, treated as cuttings in the hot¬ 
bed, under a handlight, or shaded, will make choice summer and 
