432 THE COTTAGE GARDENER. March 6. 
ts bottom. I prefer tlie pot to stand on tlie surface, 
and protected as above, just because it will require 
more water ; because thus tbe plant can receive and 
appropriate more nourishment from manure-waterings 
and top-dressings, and therefore, tbe stronger and 
firmer will be its growth. Whilst standing here, tbe 
plants must bo frequently looked over, and slightly 
pruned, so as to remove small, useless shoots, to 
shorten those threatening to be robbers, &c., and 
receive many lashings from the syringe overhead, 
of clear soot, and lime-water, &c., for keeping insects 
at bay. By the middle of September little water will 
bo necessary ; and by tbe middle of October rest should 
be induced by placing them against the north side of a 
wall or fence; and then, in November, they should be 
housed in a shed to be protected from frost, until they 
go under glass again, in January, Eebruary, or March. 
VARIETIES SUITED FOR POT-CULTURE. 
The following are suited for such purposes — 
TEA ROSES. 
Adam —blush-sulphur. 
Bougere —canary-yellow. 
Devoniensis —straw. 
La Pactole —pale yellow. 
Eliza Sauvage — deep straw. 
Niphetos —pale lemon. 
Souvenir d'un Ami —shaded salmon. 
Vicomtrsse de Cazes—- golden-yellow. 
CHINA ROSES. 
Cramoisie Superieuse —reddish-criin son. 
Mrs. Bosanquet —creamy-wliite. 
Napoleon —shaded blush. 
BOURBON ROSES. 
Acidalie— white. 
Armosa —rosy-blush. 
Paul Joseph —rich shaded lake. 
Soucliet —rich carmine. 
Souvenir de la Malmaison —whitish. 
Ghenedolle —dark crimson. 
Gomptesse Mole —delicate rosy-pink. 
Coupe de Hebe —bright pink. 
Great Western —bright crimson. 
Paul Perms —pink. 
Paul Iiieaut —deep carmine. 
HYBRID PERPETUALS. 
Baronne Prevost —large blush. 
Duchess of Sutherland —glossy blush. 
Geant des Batailles —line cornelian-crimson. 
Caroline de Sansal —blush. 
Jaques Lafitte —pale carmine. 
Louise Peronny —fine rosy-pink. 
Madame Laffay —crimson. 
Madame Rivers —blush. 
Mrs. Elliot —crimson, large. 
Robert Burns —dark crimson. 
Standard of Marengo —crimson-lake. 
William Jesse —lilac-crimson. 
HYBRID CHINA ROSES. 
Fulgens —fiery crimson. 
General Kleber —purplish-red. 
Juno —large black. 
NOISETTE ROSES. 
Aime Vibcrt —pure white. 
Cloth of Gold —yellow, large. 
Euphrosine —buff. 
Lamarque— pale yellow. 
Miss Glegg —white, small. 
Solfaterre —sulphur-yellow. 
I have mentioned these as a sort of index. The Tea 
Roses are rather the easiest to manage, and the most 
desirable for their scent. Did I want, however, a 
dozen kinds, or lmlf-a-hundred kinds, and of different 
colours, and best suited for a specific purpose—say 
growing in pots, for May—I would do just what I would 
advise amateurs to do--put themselves under the 
advice of any of our respectable growers; and I warrant 
they will be better served every way than if they had 
made out a list, with all the strength of The Cottage 
Gardener to aid them. If there are particular kinds 
perferred, of course these should be mentioned. 
R. Fish. 
BOUVARDIA LONGIFLORA. 
(THE LONG-FLOWERED BOUVARDIA.) 
The Bouvardias are a class of plants, when well- 
grown, that are exceedingly beautiful. The flowers are 
produced in clusters, at the ends of the shoots, most 
profusely, and are mostly of a brilliant scarlet. Most 
of them are of easy culture, and are, in some places, 
used as bedding-out plants; still, they are not so ex¬ 
tensively cultivated as they deserve to be. 
The species I. have selected to write about is an 
exception in regard to colour, for it is of the purest 
white; and, in addition to that, it has the pleasant 
advantage of being very fragrant The bloom has a 
great resemblanco to the new Rhododendron jastnini- 
! Jtorum. 
History. —It is a native of Mexico , and was intro¬ 
duced so long since as 1827, but is yet comparatively 
rare. The only place where I have seen it well grown 
was in Messrs. Thomas Davies and Co.’s Nursery, at 
Wavertree, near Liverpool. It is a somewhat strng- 
I gling, half-shrubby plant, with ovate leaves, about an 
inch-and-a-half long, of a deep dark green. This species 
is the most difficult of all the genus to grow satis¬ 
factorily, requiring close attention to do it. well. By 
attending to the following points of culture, that diffi¬ 
culty will bo overcome. 
Propagation. —The best season is May. To procure 
cuttings, place the plant in a heat of 55° to 60°. The 
best cuttings are short, stubby side-shoots. As soon as 
these have made a little fresh growth in the heat, pre¬ 
pare a cutting-pot, with a bell-glass to fit. The size to 
be in proportion to the probable number of cuttings. 
Six or eight cuttiugs will fill a four-inch pot. They 
should never be put in too thick, because if they are, 
they are liable to damp off. Drain the pot well, by 
filling it half full of broken pots—the largest at the 
bottom, and the smallest at the top ; cover the drainage 
with some rough peat siftings, and on them place a 
layer of very sandy heath-mould, or moor earth, leaving 
an inch from the top for a layer of sharp silver sand; 
put that in, and give a gentle watering to make it firm. 
Then take off the cuttings close to the branches, with a 
very sharp knife, dress off the bottom leaves close to 
tbe stem, and with a nice smooth stick, insert them into 
the sand round the pot as close to the side as pos¬ 
sible, just leaving room for the bell-glass. If any leaves 
| project over the rim, or touch the bell-glass when it is 
on, take a few short, clean sticks, insert them so as to 
turn the leaves inwards. Then give another gentle 
watering, allow the leaves to become dry, and then put 
on the bell-glass, and place the pot in a propagating 
house, or in a shady part of a stove, keeping it shaded 
from the sun. If a large amount of moisture condenses 
on the bell-glass, let it be wiped dry every morning ; 
and remove carefully, at the same time, any decaying 
leaves. In five or six weeks the cuttings will have 
formed roots; then prop up tbe bell-glass for an hour 
or two every day, gradually increasing the time till at 
last tlie plants will bear the glass to be left off' altogether. 
