April 10. ] 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
27 
must use laps and putty; and pray take care to have roomy apertures for 
ventilation. A vinery would do on Rivers’s plan, with brick walls, no 
doubt, and there would be no necessity for glass at the sides, provided 
the roof has a good pitch. The piping as you propose. Thanks about 
the cinders ; we have often wondered too ; we will point this out to our 
readers. 
Ixias (R. G. C .).—Either they had too much water; or the sudden 
change in the weather at the beginning of March affected them ; or the 
bulbs were not ripened last year. When their leaves turn yellow, the only 
remedy is to give them no more water than will just keep the soil from 
being quite dry, and to shake the soil from the bulbs as soon as the leaves 
j decay, and to dry the bulbs slowly where air can reach them. 
Gloire de Rosamene Rose ( Lover of Roses). —When treated for 
1 beds it comes in as a China; but it is a true hybrid Bourbon, or Bourbon 
only, according to the usual way of classing them. As you have Bourbons 
and Chinas, you can tell their differences as well as any one. Leschi- 
naultia, Cornea, and Witsenia, will grow from cuttings as you propose, 
but the Cornea would do better grafted on C. Alba, and Witsenia takes a 
long time to root, while Leschenaultia strikes freely. 
Bees (A. B .).—If you wish to put linseed oil upon the alighting 
board of your hives to keep it from cracking, which we think it will not 
effect, do it boiling hot, that it may at once be absorbed by the wood, 
and do it late in the evening, stopping up the mouth of the hive during 
the time. Oil is very annoying to bees, one drop let fall upon either a 
wasp or a bee kills it instantly. 
Bees (R. H. S.). —You must let your bees swarm, and put the swarms 
into Payne’s hives, and drive the bees in the bell-shaped hives into 
Payne’s hives in August, as already directed in The Cottage Gar¬ 
dener. Placing Payne’s hives under your stocks will not answer your 
purpose. If you wish not to increase your number of stocks, unite the 
bees from the old hives to your swarms, and take their honey. 
Camellias (W. B. TV.).—Yours have dropped all their flower-buds, 
and your gardener says it is owing to their being exposed during the 
autumn (in consequence of the house being under repair) to heavy rain, 
which “soddened” the roots with wet. This is, no doubt, the cause, if 
the pots have been ill-drained, and the soil heavy; It is rather late to 
repot them, and too late to prune ; but if the pots are, as we suspect, ill- 
drained, and the soil heavy, it is desirable to repot them immediately. 
Give them a little extra heat— 60 ° by day, and 55° by night. Keep the 
floor flooded with water in sunny weather, so as to create a moist atmos¬ 
phere ; when growing syringe gently almost every evening, and continue 
this liberal treatment till the flower-buds are fairly set; then set them out 
of doors in a place where the sun will not shine upon them after ten o’clock. 
Let them remain here till the middle of September, giving a due supply 
of water during dry weather. A good compost for Camellias is turfy 
loam and peat in equal parts. Let them be well drained with broken 
potsherds. Large plants will require full two inches and small ones one 
inch each of drainage. 
Double Dark Primroses (Ibid).— These have not bloomed. They 
should not have been kept in pots out-of-doors through the winter. The 
best place for them in pots is a cold frame. But the better plan is to 
plant them in a light soil, under the shade of a low wall facing the east. 
They never do well in a greenhouse. 
Camellia Grafting (Novice). —It is too late this spring to graft your 
large single Camellia; you had better defer it till autumn. September is 
the right month. Graft it by approach, that is, inarch it. The safest 
way is by bringing young plants of double varieties, a branch of each, 
and cutting off a thin slice of wood, and another of the same size off the 
stock, fit them together, and tie securely with matting, or cotton, or 
worsted string; let them remain so tied till they are firmly united, and then 
separate them an inch or two below the graft. This part may be cut off 
after the graft begins to grow. If you have no young plants of the double 
varieties, you may graft by the same method, only leave the bottom part 
of the scion long enough to be inserted in a small phial of water tied 
securely to the branch of the stock; change the water often, and let it 
remain till the scion is fairly united. This is not so certain a method as 
the former. 
Azalea indica (Ibid).— The small-leaved varieties will die much 
sooner on their own roots than if grafted on strong-growing broad-leaved 
variety. 
Young Vines (Ibid). —These will not bear forcing the same year they 
are planted. Let them break without heat, and gradually grow them on ; 
but give a little heat in August to ripen the wood. 
Clianthus puniceus (Rhyd-y-Gors ).—You have a fine luxuriant 
plant in a greenhouse heated from 65° to 70°, but it does not flower. The 
reason is, the temperature is much too high. This plant is nearly hardy, 
and may be grown against a south wall, w'here it will flower finely. The 
only protection it requires is a covering of double mats. In your case, 
give plenty of air to lower the heat of the house, and keep the plant quite 
cool in winter, only a degree or two above the freezing point. 
Scented Cineraria (L. L .).—We have made every inquiry about 
the plant you require, but no one seems to know it. Do any of our 
readers know of a “very powerful heliotropi um-scented Cineraria? ” 
Gladioluses (A. Z.).—You must excuse the delay that has occurred. 
We have now the opportunity, and in answer to your question, insert a 
list of the garden varieties of Gladiolus : Amphion —purple, crimson, 
white blotch, deep purple margin. 1 .4 ft. Ariadne —rosy pink, white 
line, crimson margin, resembling pudibundus. Clotilde —salmon pink, 
each petal margined with white. 1 ft. Elegantissima —salmon red, and 
white blotch. 1ft. Formosissima —scarlet and white, fine. 2 ft. Ful- 
gida— shaded dark red, with white blotch. 1 ft. Gandavensis —superb 
yellow and scarlet. 2 ft. Gloria mundi —bright scarlet, light blotch. 2 ft. 
Heloise —pale scarlet, white broad blotch. 1 ft. Heroine —pale scarlet, 
white blotch, 14 ft. Henrietta —pale scarlet, large white blotch. 1ft. 
Iphegenia —salmon pink, white blotch, 1 ft. Inflatus blandus —pink, 
light blotch. 2 ft. Insignis —fine scarlet, extended shaded blotch. 24 ft. 
Very fine. Jenny Lind —pale scarlet, white blotch, very delicate. 1 ft. 
Madame Sontag —pale pink, light cream white (blotch. 1 ft. Magni- 
ficus —salmon pink, margined, with white, pale blotch, lj ft. Pudibun¬ 
dus —light rose, white lines. 2 ft. Purpurea —purplish pink, white 
blotch. 2 ft. Princess Alice —rosy pink, white line. 2 ft. Princess 
Royal —light scarlet, light purple blotch. 1 ft. Queen Victoria —fine 
scarlet, white blotch. 2 ft. Ramosus —clear rose, white blotch, crimson 
and purple margin. 2 ft. Rosa mundi —crimson, scarlet. 2 ft. Rex 
rubrum —deep velvety crimson, marked with deep carmine and white. 1 ft. 
Triumphans —bright scarlet, long white stripe. 1J ft. Vittelinus —bright 
orange, scarlet, maroon and white blotch. 1$ ft. 
Himalayaii Pumpkin (P. F. 71/.).—We have had the fruit both 
green mottled with white, and orang e-coloured; form, always oval, 
flattened rather at the ends ; size, about 12 inches long, and 7 inches 
diameter in the widest part. Abutilon striatum likes a rich light loam, 
with a little peat, and a cool greenhouse. In the south of England it 
survives the winter against a south wall, with a little protection over the 
roots in winter. 
Labels (G. P., and Peggy). —These correspondents inquire where 1 
can the labels be procured which were exhibited at the Kingsland Meet¬ 
ing, as mentioned by us on March 13th? 
Zauchsneria Californica, &c. (E. B.). —You can obtain the 
plants you name of any of the florists who advertise in our columns. 
Fumigating with Cayenne Pepper. —A correspondent (J. B.)., 
says—“ In answer to L. R. Lucas, I beg to inform him of having fumi¬ 
gated my cucumber-house with cayenne pepper, which is 48 feet long, I 
and 9 feet wide, which was very much infected with the green fly, caused ; 
by striking fuchsias in the house. I used 14 ounces, which was most 
effectual, and did no injury to the cucumber plants.” Brounston 
Hybrid Cucumber may be had through any seedsman advertising in 
our columns. 
Canna Indica. —Mr. Waddell, of Headingley, Leeds, writes to us as 
follows :—“ With respect to the Canna Indica, I beg to inform you that 
I grew it for several years in an open border at Brymore, Bridgewater, i 
Somerset, where it flowered and ripened seeds freely in the open air, j 
without protection, summer or winter, for some years. It may still be | 
in the same border in front of the conservatory. I believe I left it there.” 
Pea for late Crops (Cantabrigiensis). —The pea for the last sown 
crop to yield the same year is the Prince Albert, because it passes 
through all the stages of growth most rapidly. To come into bearing 
late in summer, and to continue good for table use far into the autumn, 
none excels the Knight's Wrinkled Marrow, because it is excellent when 
boiled long after it has attained an age when other peas would not be 
eatable. 
Pleuronomonia in Cows. —In answer to our correspondent Isabella’s 
inquiry at p. 410 we have had several letters. Mr. H. Christian, Vete¬ 
rinary Surgeon, 54, St. George-street, Canterbury, says he has been very 
successful in effecting cures. A Constant Reader and Homoeopath each 
recommend homoeopathic treatment. The following treatment is 
quoted —“The first case I tried was a beast about three years old, the 
symptoms very unfavourable, and I did not see the slightest chance of 
recovery. I began by giving six drops of tincture of Bryonia in six 
tablespoonfuls of water, one teaspoonful every four hours, for three days, j 
when I saw a decided improvement in the cow. I then changed the | 
treatment to the same quantity of tincture of Phosphorus, for a similar 
period, when the improvement was still more decided. I then gave a 
similar quantity of Tincture of Sulphur at the same hours, and in a day 
or two the cow was perfectly well. In all the subsequent cases I doubled j 
the quantity of the tinctures, after which the effect was sooner per¬ 
ceptible. I had six or seven cases under treatment at the same time, 
and all recovered; but a failure occurred shortly which I could not 
account for, the treatment was exactly the same, but it may not have 
been taken in time.” 
Bee-dress, &c. (J. H. R .).—You may write for this and the hives to 
J. H. Payne, Esq., Bury St. Edmunds. 
Westphalia Hams (W. J. Easton). —Can any of our readers inform 
us for our correspondent how these are cured ? 
Cardoons (T. A.). —Whatever management you may adopt for these 
which have survived the winter, they will be unserviceable, and will 
advance early to seed. 
Book on Gardening (G. M. H.). —Loudon’s Encyclopedia of Gar¬ 
dening embraces every department, but is expensive. The Cottage Gar¬ 
deners’ Dictionary will answer your purpose, and is cheap. 
Carrot Wine (A grateful Subscriber). —This you say has not worked 
itself clear. Put some dissolved isinglass into it, bung it down, and 
leave it for six months undisturbed. 
American Gardening (Carew S. Peckham). —Ornamental gardening 
is highly cultivated in the United States, as you would perceive if you 
read Downing’s work on landscape gardening as practiced there. There 
are horticultural societies and shows as in this country, and their garden 
! literature is respectable. English high-class gardeners find employment 
there; for we know that Mr. Reid, head gardener at Noblethorpe, left 
that situation for a more advantageous engagement in America. High 
testimonials, of course, would be of great advantage. 
Name of Plant (T. Sallow). —Your plant is the Green Hellebore 
(Helleborus viridis), a native of this country, though not very common. 
White Hellebore powder will kill the Caterpillars. 
Raisin Wine. —A trusty correspondent says, the following recipe has 
been followed in his family with the best results for about half a century: 
“To make a hogshead of wine, take 3 cwt. of Smyrna raisins, or 34 cwt. 
Malaga, 40 gallons of soft water, put them into a tub sufficiently large to 
admit of the increased bulk resulting from fermentation ; stir the mass 
well daily until it shall have fermented briskly, which in temperate 
weather will be in from ten to fourteen days; draw off the liquid, and 
press the fruit, mix all together, and tun it, leaving it in the cask without 
a bung for twelve months, merely covering the bung-hole with a piece of 
open canvass. Note. The wine made from Malaga raisins will be soonest 
fit for use; but it is esteemed best made I cwt. Smyrna and 24 cwt. 
Malaga. I have never bottled until it has been three years in the cask.” 
London: Printed by Harry Wooldridge, Winchester High-street, 
in the Parish of Saint Mary Kalendar; and Published by William 
Somerville Orr, at the Office, No. 2 , Amen Corner, in the Parish of 
Christ Church, City of London.—April 10 th, 1851. 
