April 24.] THE COTTAGE GARDENER. (51 
Vine Pruning (W. H. B.).— Your plan is often resorted to; if, how¬ 
ever, you can carry crop enough, and your spurs are “at home,” do not i 
leave any hut the fruiters. Let your fires go out in the morning ; rake 
clean, and light again at two o’clock, a.m. Vines and cucumbers ought 
i cot to be together, but they may be grown so ; the cucumber wants too 
1 much atmospheric moisture for the vine. 
| Calla JETinoricA ( Lady-bird ).—This, so usually called an Arum, is 
a plant that generally blooms freely enough, both in pots and out of doors, 
plunged in water. It requires a long rest, and may be rested either in 
summer or in winter; we bloom one set of them in April and May, and a 
second set from October to Christmas. They yield to forcing in the 
spring. We use strong rich loam for them, and give them abundance of 
water while they are in growth, and we let them go gradually to rest as 
the leaves turn colour, and keep them quite dry for three or four months, 
and we believe we could have some in bloom every month in the year. 
More minute details will be seen in our first volume. We never heard of 
the scarlet geranium called Baron Hugel, but there is no end to the 
varieties. Some do well every where, while others will only succeed in 1 
particular soils. A small leaf, with a very dark horse-shoe mark, is a 
great recommendation, and wc recommend it on your authority. 
Grub in Raspberry buds (W. Barker). —The little red grubs, or 
caterpillars, which burrow into the young shoots of your raspberry, are j 
those of a small moth belonging to the family of Tortricidne, probably 
Tortrix Holmeana. We have not, however, hitherto seen any instance 
of such a kind of destruction, nor do we think any such has been recorded, j 
The eggs were laid in the previous summer on the branches, and, doubt¬ 
less, covered with gluten, in patches. We can suggest no other remedy 
than hand-picking, or rather pressing the buds as soon as they droop, 
as extensive.y as possible, and so prevent next year’s mischief. You will 
probably hear from Mr. Westwood on the subject. 
Large Flat-topped Hive (A Journeyman Cabinet-maker). —This, 
in which “ A Country Curate ” put his first artificial swarm of last May, 
is almost identical with that figured at page 21 of the last edition of 
Mr. Taylor’s “ Bee-keeper’s Manual ” (which has since been published), 
only it is much larger. It will be seen, on a reference to that work, that 
the loose wooden crown-board of the hive (which is straight throughout, 
and open at each end,) is made of two circular smooth boards—each, say 
of halt-inch stuff, glued together, the grain of the wood crossing, to pre¬ 
vent warping. The upper piece of wood, also, projects one inch over 
the hive-rim, while the under side “ is cut so as to fall within the minor 
diameter ” of the hive. The advantage of this peculiar crown-board is 
this, that “on removing a full cap,” or plundering a full hive, “the 
combs can be separated from the sides with a knife or spatula, when 
there will be no difficulty in lifting the crown-board from its place, with 
the combs suspended from it, in a perfect and unbroken state,” instead 
of cutting them away from below. A Country Curate says, “ Of much 
the same construction, and on a similar principle, was my large hive; 
but as the advantage above-mentioned is but of little comparative prac¬ 
tical value, save in supers or caps of small size (in large hives I fear it is 
likely to be of little use, for the combs being so large and heavy, will be 
in danger of breaking away from it on lifting them out, as, indeed, hap¬ 
pened to a friend of mine last summer), I do not now recommend it. In 
my lately constructed hives, therefore, (of which a figure and full descrip¬ 
tion will be found in “The English Bee-keeper,” just published by 
Messrs, ltivington,) with a view to a still greater improvement, I have 
made a slight alteration in the construction of the crown-boards. Like 
the former, they are made of two pieces of wood glued together, but, 
instead of the under piece fitting into the minor diameter of the hive, it 
rests upon the hive-rim, equally with the upper piece, being of exactly 
the same diameter. This kind of board, it will be seen, fully secures the 
advantage of that of Mr. Taylor, while its chief use is this, that when a 
prime swarm in a large hive gets very heavy (and every good prime 
swarm should be put into a large hive, if it is to be kept for stock), and 
it seems desirable to rob it of part of its stores (a stock hive ought not 
to weigh above 23 lbs. of contents at Michaelmas), which arc always to 
be found at the upper part of the hive, the board may be removed, after 
passing a spatula right underneath it, so as to sever the comb from its 
attachments to it. In this way (the bees having previously been driven 
out pro. tern.), the treasures of the hive are disclosed to view, and as 
much of each comb as is thought desirable may be scooped out, leaving 
the lower part of the comb as clear gain to the bees. Where a hive has 
bars, which are always useful, every comb can be got at individually, 
without disturbing the others, after removing its particular bar ; or the 
crown-board might consist of two leaves, united by hinges, of which only 
one need be lifted up at a time, so as to get at the contents of half the 
hive. The board is kept in its place by being secured down directly to a 
thick hoop, fastened to the outer edge of the upper part of the hive, or 
by means of hinges, of which one leaf is secured to the hive-top, while 
the other is fastened to the hoop externally. My hive is fifteen inches in 
diameter, by eight or nine inches high.” 
Aspect for Bees ( Elise ).—We recommend south in preference to 
any other aspect. Each of Payne’s hives should have two, at least, of 
the small depriving hives to work it properly. 
Queenless Bees {B. S. P .).—“ Watching my hives the few fine 
days we have had the last week or two, and the activity of the bees at the 
different hives, carrying in their pollen, I observed one, which hitherto I 
had considered to be the best stock in my apiary (being a very large and 
early swarm of last year), was, amongst all the bustle of its neighbours, 
idle —half a dozen bees basking in the sun at the entrance, stretching 
their legs, as it were, after a long period of idleness, apparently with no 
object in view, were the only signs which presented themselves of their 
existence. It is evident, I think, from this, that no breeding is going 
forward, from, I humbly conceive, the loss of their queen.”—You are 
quite right, there is no queen. The only plan that you can adopt, at this 
season, will be to take a piece of comb from a strong hive that is filled 
with eggs and brood, and introduce it into your queenless hive, and 
your bees will at once set about making a queen. In Taylor’s box-hive 
this operation is performed with the greatest convenience. 
Geraniums and Verbenas ( B. P. S.). —Wc do not think that any 
of the Verbenas would answer well mixed with Geraniums, particularly 
with the variegated ones. Mangle’s Variegated will do for a centre-bed 
without any mixture. Tagctes tenuifolia will soon cover a bed, if planted 
a foot apart each way; but we allow only six inches; Lobelia ramosa the 
same. Old plants of Scarlet Geraniums will answer better than last 
autumn cuttings for a bed edged with White Petunias, because the 
Petunia is likely to make too strong a growth for that of young Gera¬ 
niums, and unless the bed is well raised in the middle would overtop 
them. 
Flower Beds (Esther Muskett). —All the plants you name are good 
bedders, and will arrange round the Heliotrope and light Verbena as a 
neutral centre. It is best in such cases, when corresponding beds on 
opposite sides of a centre are filled with plants having the same coloured 
flowers, and to be of the same height, but not at all necessary that the 
same plant should be repeated. Nevertheless, your yellow Calceolaria 
opposite a scarlet Geranium, across a neutral centre, cannot possibly 
mar “the effect,” and that is one of the greatest advantages of keeping 
subdued colours, or neutral tints, in the middle of a composition. 
Stage for Pinks, &c. (A Breconshire Subscriber ).— A frame, or, as 
it is technically called, a stage, for carnations should be formed like the 
skeleton of a house with canvass covers, with a walk down the centre, 
and a low platform on each side. This platform may contain three or 
five row's of pots ; the former is the most convenient for examining the 
flowers. Under this shade the carnation flowers, and shows off to great j 
advantage. A frame with glass covers would be too hot and light, and, | 
besides, would require to be at least three feet deep. 
Penstemon ( Wind Flower). —You send a piece of seedling Penste- 
mon, and request us to inform what will be the colour of the flowers. 
We cannot tell, nor can anybody else. It looks like Penstemon carnpa- 
nulata, which has a rosy red flower. The best way to keep Dahlias 
dwarf, or low, is to peg down the shoots with hooked pegs. Scarlet 
Geraniums will flower more freely, and produce less foliage, if they are 
planted out in their pots. 
Sobralia (X. X.).—Certainly a species of Sobralia, but the flower 
was so crushed in passing through the post-office, that it was impossible 
to name it. It is very likely a new species. Have you a piece to spare 
in exchange, we might then make it out next year '! 
Various Questions [Cantiensis). — Verbenas, See, to be planted in 
masses should be put in at nine inches apart. The time for planting is 
as soon as the frosts are over. Your young Pansies will bloom in June 
without any trouble. To get good blooms in September, put in cut¬ 
tings now ; and when they are rooted prick them out, and nip off all the 
blooms till the first of August. Sow Verbena seed immediately, in a 
gentle hotbed, in a shallow pan. Plant the seedlings out as soon as 
they are large enough. They will flower in September. Instructions 
about Dahlia growing are briefly mentioned almost every week in The 
Cottage Gardener. A more full account of its culture and blooming 
will appear in due course. 
Payne’s Hives [N. D .).—A letter directed “J. H. Payne, Esq., Bury 
St. Edmunds,” will reach him. He is a private gentleman, and will aid 
you as much as he can to get the hives to Bristol. The common Long 
Prickly and Sion House cucumbers are the best varieties for use, and the 
Browston Hybrid for show. For Dahlia propagating see page 22. 
Winter Shelter for Plants [Pauperis).— The plan you propose 
will answer very well, but we think you will find it dearer than the “Five- 
pound Greenhouse.” An angle of 34° will do for the roof. Much the 
cheapest and warmest structure for w'intering plants is one with sides a 
foot thick made of turves, w ith a door at one end, and a glazed roof at 
the above angle. 
Glass Jar ( Hortus). —You could not expect to obtain this, described 
by our correspondent, for less than 6s., if new. A square glazed struc¬ 
ture would answer nearly as well in every respect but appearance. Our 
correspondent wishes to know where he can obtain seeds of the Browston 
Hybrid Cucumber ? 
Annual Creepers (J. B.). —The different varieties of Convolvulus 
major are as good as any to plant with standard roses for training against 
them. Petunias we have seen so used; and we have also seen Tropaeolum 
canuriensis, or the Canary Creeper, so trained, and when it reached the 
head of the rose it was carried in a festoon to the next standard. Yet 
the plan is much against the rose-trees, as these climbers exhaust the 
soil, which can hardly be too good for the rose by itself. 
Combination of Geraniums [Constant Reader). —The scarlet breed 
do not harmonise with the florists’ pelargoniums, and neither Jehu nor 
Prince Albert are good bedders, but if you must use them with Tom 
Thumb let them be in the centre of the bed, and Tom as a belt round 
them. Your Vine will take no harm from the way you stopped the 
bleeding. 
Cupressus macrocarpa [J. H .).—There is not the slightest doubt 
about this being the same as C. Lambertiana ; the officers of the London 
Horticultural Society who made out their identity are beyond suspicion 
on such matters. A difference in the fragrance, or some being fragrant 
and others not, is an accidental variation in seedlings of them, not an 
unusual circumstance in this and other families. All the plants of ma¬ 
crocarpa being fragrant, while those ot Lambertiana were not so, in a 
given nursery, is very easily accounted for: they were propagated by 
cuttings from two or more individuals, the one fragrant and the other not 
fragrant, but that does not establish a specific difference. We would 
plant this Cypress 20 feet apart, in an avenue, and in 10 or 14 years 
remove every other plant; but very likely 6o feet apart would be better 
for the final distance, still, we would begin with 20 feet. 
Diseased Geraniums [C. T. P.). —You have the dreadful malady 
called the spot among your geraniums, and, if we must tell the truth, 
there is not a man living who knows, for a certainty, the cause of it. It 
is infectious, and you cannot now get rid of it till the bloom is over and 
the plants are cut down to the hard brown wood, and a thin paint of 
equal quantities of soot and sulphur applied to the remains ; but a better 
plan is to plant them out on a rich border, and take cuttings from the 
tops of the young healthy shoots at the end of July, and let the frost 
destroy the old plants. Top-dress the Fuchsias and Geraniums with the 
same compost they are in. Potting your Cactus now will not prevent its 
flowering—but why pot till after the bloom is over '! If the Cactus is 
