May 29.] 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
125 
the amateur with short means delights to cultivate. It 
must be well accommodated at the roots ; a large pot and a 
strong compost of loam and leaf-mould, with, or without, a 
little peat. It requires abundance of water in summer, as, 
like the Oleander, its roots are periodically immersed in 
water from the overflowing of the rivers. It was discovered 
in the bottom of a brook running into the canal of Sebas- 
tianopolis, in the province of Rio, and was first introduced 
here from Russia by the Horticultural Society in 1840, who 
presented a plant of it to the Society of Apothecaries, in 
whose garden it flowered last year, and where, in days gone 
by, it would have been thought of much value medicinally, 
Rueworts like it being characterized by them powerful bit¬ 
terness, and the American species being well known for 
their febrifugal properties, as we have just stated. 
Mi-lrodorea nigra has leaves about four inches long, dark 
green, smooth, in threes, each leaflet broadly spear-liead. 
Floivcrs in loose panicles about eight inches in length, 
clammy and downy at the end; each corolla about three 
lines in diameter ; petals five, broadly spear head, very 
glossy, and dark purple; filaments purple ; anthers orange. 
It is a straggling shrub, and the bark of the branches grey. 
J. B. 
THE ERUIT-GARDEN. 
Melons. —We must return to this subject, as the 
present is a period of much importance to the main 
summer crops. Those who intend ridging out late or 
autumn crops shortly, will do well, if in beds of ferment¬ 
ing material, to raise the frame nearly three feet above 
the ground level, with brushwood, sticks, &c. One of 
the chief elements of success with very late melons, is to 
be found in the ability to apply hot linings with a 
liberal hand in the end of September, and all through 
October; and this in order that a free ventilation may 
be observed, for confined damps are, at that period 
especially, the great enemy. We would use the Beech- 
wood, or Snow’s or Terry’s Melon, for the latest crop; 
what the new “ Bromham Hall” is, we do not know 
except by hearsay. 
“ Setting” Melons. —This process should be attended 
to daily about noon, or when the farina is in a lively 
state and dry. As soon as the fruits swell as large as a 
pigeon’s egg, they must be thinned out, and whatever 
number of plants a frame may contain, four or five 
melons to each light is a good crop, if size and flavour 
are a consideration. As soon as any given shoot has 
its allowance of fruit in this stage, the point should be 
pricked off at about three eyes beyond the fruit; so say 
our principal melon growers, although it is not unlikely 
that another eye or two would benefit them rather than 
otherwise. Still the advice is sound on the whole, for 
a greater latitude would induce young beginners to 
crowd their frames with useless spray, than which no¬ 
thing is more opposed to success in melon culture. 
Through all their culture, indeed, the utmost vigilance 
should be exercised in this respect, no spray should be 
suffered to continue long to shade the principal leaves, 
providing the latter are lieathful; if not, they must be 
progressively removed to make way for later develop 
ments. A good melon frame, or pit, always exhibits an 
uniform surface of bold leaves, with little or no spray 
lying confusedly over their surface. It is a good plan 
to make a point of examining the frames twice every 
week, for stopping, thinning, and regulation purposes 
and this on set days, in order to avoid neglect. All 
superfluous blossoms should at such times be pricked 
away; every blossom, both male and female, not wanted, 
is just so much strength detracted from the plant. 
Swelling melons, at this period, require much nourish¬ 
ment, in order to keep the older leaves in vigour, for 
those ought to be quite fresh when the fruit is ripening. 
So sure as the larger leaves are decaying at that period, 
so sure will the flavour be inferior and the flesh wanting 
in depth and in juice. Now the leaves may decay 
through more than one reason; insects are the most 
general cause, but lack of sufficient nourishment is 
another. A high amount of elaboration, and a heavy 
tax on the secretions, exists during the months of 
June, July, and August; and if this is not supplied 
as demanded, a premature decay of the organs is a 
sure consequence. Need we add, to complete the 
climax, that the fruit suffers in a corresponding ratio. 
It is, therefore, good practice in frame culture, to raise 
all the frames in the end of May, by which period 
there is scarcely so much need of very hot linings; and 
so to raise them as that the roots may protrude into 
a bed of soil, or rather leaf-mould, outside the frame. 
To effect this the lining must be drawn away to the 
depth of the frame, a cavity formed, and the leaf-soil, 
or other material, introduced, closing the whole after¬ 
wards with sweet lining. If any renewed lining is re¬ 
quisite, it should be over this, and against the sides of 
the frame. Thus, beneath should be a mellow and 
moist lining of about 90°, enclosing material for the 
outstretching of the fibres; and above renewed lining, 
with a heat, if necessary, of 100°, for not more than 90° 
will descend to the soil from the tendency of heat to 
ascend. Let it be here understood, that it is too late' to 
do all this when the melons have completed their first 
swelling; we have known this done, and the fruit to 
burst in consequence, as well they might. Their skins 
being “ set” are ill-adapted to withstand an undue acces¬ 
sion of sap, suddenly thrown into a system ill-prepared 
to receive and appropriate it. This procedure should 
take place about the period the crop first commences 
swelling off, and cannot well be done at a very early 
period, on account of the very hot linings requisite in 
frame culture. 
Watering Melons. —This is rather an important 
affair, and must be done with caution. From the time 
they are ridged out, until the fruit is swelling, they 
require but little; what is necessary being conveyed to 
the root without wetting their stems, or damping the 
whole surface of the bed. As soon, however, as a crop 
is set and swelling, they need a very liberal watering; 
and this may be given all over the surface, taking care 
to use every means to get the surface dry again as soon 
as possible, by warm linings, and a free ventilation. 
Liquid manure will, at this period, prove highly bene¬ 
ficial, and it must be administered warm, say at 90°. 
After its application, the plants had best be sprinkled 
with clean water. Henceforth, they will scarcely need 
another soaking, unless the weather is very bright and 
hot, when the dose may be repeated just before the first 
swelling is completed; after, a slight amount of water 
will suffice; indeed, watering rather freely occasionally 
close to the frame inside, will almost prove sufficient, 
although slight syringings will be of great benefit each 
afternoon about four o’clock, or just before closing time, 
during bright weather. From the period the ripening 
commences syringings alone will be sufficient, and even 
these may be discontinued if the weather is dull, giving 
abundance of air night as well as day during the ripen¬ 
ing period, in fact ripening them slowly rather than 
otherwise. 
Insects. —The melon is peculiarly liable to the attacks 
of the thrip, the aphis, and the red spider. The last being 
most frequent, arises, doubtless, from the diy atmo¬ 
sphere which is encouraged amongst melons. Any 
stagnation of the sap, through impeded root-action, will 
tend immediately to subject them to its depredations. 
The best plan we know, is to use a sulphur paint, about 
once a fortnight, from the blossoming to the ripening 
period. This is composed of clay paint, to which plenty 
of sulphur is added, and may be thickly coated on the 
shady portion of the wood work, or wall, of the interior; 
and extended, but with caution, round the ends, with 
