THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
165 
I June 12.] 
ancl another of light green, they will be neater, and 
more like the natural stem of the flowers, and, besides, 
will last much longer. They should be thrust into the 
ground firmly, and stand no higher than the flower- 
stem is likely to grow. Use no more than one or two, 
at the utmost, to each plant. It is not prudent to allow 
more flower-stems to each plant, unless it is very strong, 
for it is not the multiplying of the number of flowers 
that increases the chances of securing a greater number 
fit for the exhibition table, but, by reducing the number 
of flower-stems, the whole strength of the plant is accu¬ 
mulated to produce finer flowers on those that are left. 
Generally speaking, however, each plant will produce 
only one stem, and this may have on it several blooms. 
Here is a case, again, that requires discrimination. 
If the buds exceed the number of three, it is advisable 
to reduce them to that standard, by carefully rubbing 
them off without injuring the stem. In weak subjects, 
it may be advisable even to reduce them to the upper¬ 
most one, leaving that only to bloom. Now as to whether 
it is desirable to leave one or more stems, or one or 
more buds to bloom on each stem, depends upon the 
strength of the plant—the judgment of the cultivator, 
exercised upon the state of his plants, must be the 
guide. 
The next point to be considered, is the tying the 
stems to the sticks. Simple as this operation may ap¬ 
pear, it must not be done without thought. If they are 
tied tight to the sticks, the lengthening of the joints will 
cause them to form bends of a knee-like shape, which, 
if left for any time, will suddenly snap off at a joint 
above or below the tie, and the bloom, consequently, 
will be destroyed. To prevent this mishap, tie the mat, 
or other material used, first round the stick as hard as 
you please, then bring the flower-stem within the two 
ends of the string, and tie a knot, so as to leave a small 
space for the stem to grow upwards and outwards. The 
stem then will hang loosely, and all danger of breakage 
will be avoided. When the flower-stems have attained 
their full height and thickness, and the flowers begin to 
open, it may be desirable, to protect them from heavy 
winds, to tie them in pretty tight, there will then be no 
danger of the stems breaking. As the buds advance 
towards opening, to prevent them bursting the calyx or 
green flower-cup on one side, it is absolutely necessary 
to place round each a ring of some kind to keep them 
whole. Rings of India-rubber, of the right diameter, 
are the best, because, as the buds expand, the ring ex¬ 
pands also. They should be placed as near as possible 
to the centre of the bud, and if it shows any tendency 
to burst on one side, in spite of the rings, slit the other 
divisions of the green flower-cup with a pair of sharp- 
pointed scissors down to the protecting ring; this will 
cause the petals, or flower-leaves, to expand equally on 
every side, and thus cause a good-shaped flower. Where 
great perfection is desired, it will be advisable to place 
under each flower a card, with a hole stamped in the 
centre. This will keep the guard leaves, or lower petals, 
from falling too much backwards, and will keep them in a 
flat, even form when the flower is fully expanded. All 
. badly-shaped, or not properly-coloured petals, should be 
drawn out early with a pair of tweezers, great care being 
used not to injure or displace the perfectly formed ones. 
The flowers should now be in the greatest perfection, and 
j will require, to prolong their beauty, a shelter from 
wind, rain, and sunshine. Hoops bent over the bed 
: with three or, which is better, five longitudinal rods tied 
firmly to each hoop, form the rafters, as it were, for a 
roof of either mats, canvass, or glazed calico, the last 
I being the most effectual. 
Carnations and Picotees require much the same 
treatment now as described above for pinks. Next 
week we shall enter more fully into the particular 
points of culture they require. 
Ranunculuses must now be well supplied with water, 
or the blooms will fail. 
Tulips going out of bloom should have the shades 
removed, and all seed vessels cut off, to induce the bulbs 
to go to rest. T. Appleby. 
THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
Where the soil has been well managed, and the seed 
committed carefully to the earth in due season, many of 
the crops will be by this time in a healthy and luxuriant 
state, and, in some cases, already yielding a bountiful 
return for the use of man. How beautiful and interest¬ 
ing a matter it is to those who are in the habit of watch¬ 
ing and assisting Nature’s wonderful works. If the 
weather continues hot and dry, considerable assistance 
may, no doubt, be given to some kinds of crops by the 
application of water; but to apply water by dribbles, 
or in small quantities, or over the foliage of plants 
in clear, fervid weather, will injure, rather than assist, 
the progress of vegetation. Our system in applying 
water to crops is first to mulch the surface, which has, 
of course, throughout the season, been well kept open 
by constant stirrings, and then to apply one regularly 
good soaking; but we never apply the water over the 
foliage of the plants or crop, but only to the surface of 
the soil, from the spouts of the waterpots, one in each 
hand, with a branch of brushwood thrust into the spouts 
or noses of them, so as to lead out the water quickly and 
softly to the place desired. The water may thus be 
applied with beneficial effect on the shady side of late 
Peas, Cauliflowers, Scarlet Runners, or any other grow¬ 
ing crop, at any time during the day, though we prefer 
applying it late at night, or in cloudy weather, if it can 
be so ordered. Irrigation at night, where it can be 
commanded in the heat of summer, is to a vegetable 
garden truly valuable. 
Plant out, if not already done, Capsicums and Chillies 
close under walls or fences, on which they may be nailed 
or tacked close, or on a warm border. Cardoons should 
be thinned, and kept encouraged by constant surface¬ 
stirring, and the last sowing made for this season. A 
small sowing of Curled Endive may be made ; and also 
a planting of Leeks, Onions, Carrots, Parsnips, Red and 
White Beet, Salsafy, Scorzonera, Parsley, and all kinds 
of summer crops should have their final thinning; but 
constantly encourage a healthy, luxuriant growth, by 
frequent surface-stirrings ; indeed, it cannot be too often 
performed while the hoe or scarifier can be at all got 
amongst them. Do not neglect at this season full sow¬ 
ings of Coleworts, and the getting out, at all convenient 
opportunities, plenty of Savoys, the various Kales, Brus¬ 
sels sprouts, Kohl-rahi, and other winter stuff. We plant 
a good deal of for winter cattle feeding. The whole of 
the potato ground is thus planted, and produces a 
heavy crop. 
Potatoes. —With regard to the prospect of a Potato 
crop no one can foresee, to any certainty, what the pro¬ 
duce may be. They are at this time, it is very true, to 
all outward appearance, looking remarkably strong and 
healthy; but they will not bear a close examination. 
This our experience has taught us; and although all our 
early crops have been very good, with scarcely the least 
indication of the old disease to be seen, we are sorry 
to observe that amongst all the out-of-doors crops that 
we have examined, the old enemy is still distinguishable, 
although in a much slighter degree than we have ob¬ 
served it for many previous years. Up to the present 
time we have seen no indication on the foliage nor up 
the stalks higher than two inches from the base or old 
plant, and not in any case in that virulent manner that 
we have on former occasions observed. All that at 
present is to be found consists of small specks, some 
advanced into blotches; but as scarcely any stalks are 
