June 19.] 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER 
1R1 
neighbourhood of York. Many small packets have 
come to hand, but we are evidently going backwards 
with these flowers. It is of no use to sow the seed of 
collections; no good will be done until florists’ will ob¬ 
tain a few of the best only, and discard all others, while 
they save their own seed. We have not received, 
amongst numerous packets, a single variety worth 
naming. 
The Seedliny Flowers at the Gldswick Show, on the 7th, 
did not present one in advance of our present varieties. 
There were, perhaps, a dozen fancy Geraniums, but 
none worth notice. Calceolarias were all very bad. A 
Cactus, like Jenkinsonii enlarged, was conspicuous, on 
account of its monstrous flowers, and was named Mars. 
The so-called hybrid geranium, which some writer said 
was a cross between a hollyhock and a pelargonium! 
was exhibited under the name of Wihnores Surprize. 
It is a semi-double variety, of a lake colour, and appears 
a very likely thing to make a splendid bedding plant. 
It is like a geranium in every particular, and has no 
more appearances of a cross than any other we possess. 
It seems, too, an abundant bloomer. It was raised by 
Mr. Cole, gardener to Mr. Wilmore, near Birmingham. 
There is nothing in its form or texture to recommend it, 
but the colour is new. G. G. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS CULTURE. 
Carnations and Picotees. —These beautiful summer 
flowers will now be advancing rapidly towards blooming. 
If not already furnished with support for the flower- 
stems, no time should be lost in applying it. The best 
sticks are made of deal, sharpened at the lower, and 
gradually tapering to the upper end. They may be 
either round or square. We prefer the latter, for a reason 
hereafter to be mentioned. They should have a coat of 
lead-coloured paint first, and then one of green. Painted 
of this colour they assimilate better with the colour of 
the stems. Their length should be at least three feet, 
which will allow six inches to be thrust into the soil, and 
2^ feet out. This height is desirable, for though the 
flower-steins seldom rise so high, yet a support is re¬ 
quired for each flower, formed with a piece of wire 
with a hooked end for the flower to rest on, and it will 
be found the end to be fastened into the stake should be 
a little above the flower, in order to place it in the best 
position to be seen. Tie the stem to each stalk with the 
same precaution as described last week for the Pink—that 
is, loosely, for if tied tightly to the support, there is the 
same liability to form knees, which will certainly cause 
the stem in time to snap off at the node where the tie is 
so tight. The green fly will be very likely now to attack 
these plants. The best remedy is a syringing or two of 
tobacco water, and the way to make it, is to steep the 
strongest tobacco in water. Three ounces to a gallon 
will be strong enough. Let it macerate in the water 
for a few days, squeezing the tobacco two or three times 
with the hand to bring out all the strength. Apply it 
with a fine-rosed syringe. If the insects congregate in 
the scales round the buds, dip these in the water, holding 
them in a few seconds to be certain the insects get a 
sufficient dose of it. This is best done some calm even¬ 
ing. In the morning syringe again, rather strongly, 
with pure water, to wash off the dead or half-killed 
insects. Repeat this again in a day or two, if they are 
not all killed the first time. To have these flowers in 
the highest perfection, and to enjoy their beauty for the 
longest possible time, it is best to place them under a 
shelter of canvass upon a platform, just high enough to 
bring the flowers near to the eye. The height of the 
platform should be from a foot to fifteen inches. If lower, 
the spectator would have to stoop to examine the 
flower, and if higher, he woidd only see the edges. The 
frame to support the canvass should be in the form of a 
house—that is, with two upright sides, and a roof sloping 
two ways, with a long piece of square wood, and rafters 
five feet apart, let into it. These should reach down to 
two beams, supported by pillars, to form the sides. Two 
rollers, the length of the stage, should be provided to 
fasten the canvass to, with a wheel at the ends to hold 
the cord, by which the rollers are drawn up and let down. 
This shelter must be used to protect the blooms from 
rain and bright sunshine. If this mode is too expensive, 
or inconvenient, caps of either canvass or oiled paper 
may be used, and will answer the purpose tolerably 
well. These caps must be formed of a wire frame, \ 
covered with either paper or canvass, with a hole in the 
centre, to rest upon the top of the stakes. They should 
come low enough down the stake to protect the blooms 
effectually, without actually touching them. Though a 
tolerable substitute for a regular stage, they are by no 
means either so perfect, or so useful, for every time the 
flowers are examined they will have to be lifted off'; a 
rather tedious operation where a large collection is cul¬ 
tivated. On the other hand, if the proper stage is erected, 
the flowers can be constantly seen without any trouble, 
and every necessary attention given to them instantly. 
Water must, of course, be given regularly, in sufficient 
quantities to support the growth of the plants, and no 
more, for too much will be as injurious as too little. It 
is impossible to give precise directions on this point, so 
much depends upon the weather, and the robust or 
weak state of the plant; it may, however, be remarked, 
and laid down as a rule, never to give water till the 
surface of the soil is dry, and this more particularly 
must be attended to when the plants are weak or sickly. 
Syringing may be practised with beneficial results, 
the chief of which is the cleansing the foliage from dust 
and dirt. The paths, also, it will be desirable to sprinkle 
occasionally with water, to lay the dust, and give off a 
cool moisture to the air; this may be done every day, 
and two or three times a day during dry, hot weather. 
Stirring the soil. If the surface of the soil, from fre¬ 
quent waterings, or any other cause, becomes hard, or 
appears sour or mossy, it should be stirred well up with 
a very small fork, using due care not to injure or disturb 
the roots. If the soil lias sunk much below the edge of 
the pots, a fresh coat after the forking will be useful, 
and will give a neat, cleanly appearance to the plants. 
No weeds should ever be allowed to push beyond the 
seed-leaf. 
Thinning the buds. —Whenever the buds exceed three 
they should be reduced to that number, and on weak 
plants one will be sufficient. This thinning should be 
performed early, in order to throw the whole strength of i 
the stem into the remainder. As the buds begin to * 
swell, they must have a ring put round each, to prevent 
them bursting sideways or irregularly. See Pink culture ! 
in the last week’s number. Directions on layering next 
week. T. Appleby. 
THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
Asparagus. —Finish cutting from those plants which 
have been cut from this year for the first time, and 
allow the sprew, or small shoots, to grow on the old 
beds. Keep a thoroughly open surface, never allowing 
a weed to be seen, watching for every available oppor¬ 
tunity of applying slight dredgings of salt, and if a little 
Guano and charred-dust can be given alternately, so 
much the more will be added to the vigorous growth of 
the Asparagus. This is the sure mode of laying a good 
foundation for another year’s produce; for a luxuriant 
summer’s growth is insured by abundance of strong buds 
on the crowns. No one would think of applying salt, 
Guano, or liquid-manure, in hot, parching weather. 
Advantage should, at all times, be taken of applying 
