320 
THE COTTAGE GABDENER. 
[August 21. 
A. myrtifolui (Myrtle-leaved). — A beautiful little 
plant, with somewhat myrtle-like leaves, and the flowers 
produced in little racemes at the point, and along the 
sides of the young shoots. Plant from two to four 
feet in height, and having pale yellow flowers from 
January to June. 
A. suaveolem (Sweet-scented).—One similar in mode 
of growth and the producing of the flowers, hut 
phylloids small aud linear, and the plant growing from 
two to six feet in height, the blooms having a very 
pleasant aroma, aud appearing generally from January 
to June. 
A. verticillata (Whorled).—This is different from the 
synonyme referred to above, and altogether is much 
stronger growing, though the phylloids are narrow, 
small, and linear; but under these circumstances is 
easily known by the yellow flowers being produced not 
singly hut in cylindrical spikes. There are several 
varieties of this species, differing chiefly in the size of 
the foliage. In a pot it grows from two to eight feet 
in height, and flowers from February to June. 
A. pulchella (Handsome).—Is a pretty little thing, 
with pinnated phylloids and solitary flowers, growing 
i to a height of from a foot and a half to live feet, aud 
flowering during the spring months. 
A. grandis (Grand).—One of the most beautiful and 
newest of the group, possessing beautiful, soft, sea-green, 
pinnated foliage, and great abundance of bright orange 
globular flowers, coming on single peduncles from the 
base of the phylloids, wlieuce, also, a single spine issues 
from the stem as a discriminating distinction. I have 
seen it flowering freely when about three feet in height, 
and it does not look as if it ever would be a rampant 
grower, and, therefore, it is well fitted for small green¬ 
houses, as it seems to flower not only in spring but 
through the summer. It has been in the country four 
or live years, and will no doubt soon be plentiful. 
Were I restricted to grow three in pots, they would be 
alata, arniata, and grandis. 
Propagation .—This is best done by seeds when ob¬ 
tainable, and before sowing in a hotbed in spring they 
should he steeped in water of 140° for 24 hours. Next, 
by cuttings of the half-ripened young shoots, in the 
beginning of summer, inserted in sand, under a bell- 
glass, aud placed in a cold pit for several weeks, and 
merely shaded from the sun, aud moist enough, then 
they may be removed to a little bottom-beat until the 
roots are freely protruded, when they will require to be 
potted off and kept close until rooting; shortly after¬ 
wards nip out the point of the shoot, to prevent elonga¬ 
tion, and encourage growth of a stubby, bushy character. 
Soil .—Sandy loam and libry peat. If likely to grow 
too strong and long give more loam, this will make 
them more robust and sturdy. 
Culture .—The first season from cuttings or seeds they 
will be best under glass. In the second summer they 
may stand until October, from the end of May, in a 
sheltered place out of doors, where they will have the 
morning and evening sun, be secure from worms getting 
into the pots, and be saved from deluging rains and 
I very boisterous winds. 
Watering. — This will generally be required in fair 
I abundance, especially when growing, and opening the 
j first flower-buds. We cannot imitate their natural 
| climate, but towards autumn we should give no more 
water than will just keep them from flagging. At these 
two periods a little manure-water may also be given. 
Repotting .—So long as the plants are young they will 
require this at least once a-year. When established, 
and as large as you wish them to be, the repotting 
should merely consist in getting rid of some of the old 
roots and a portion of the old soil along with them, and 
replacing witli fresh in a similar sized pot. After such 
operations give the plant a shady place for a time. The 
periods best for performing the operation are just when 
fresh growth is proceeding, after flowering and pruning, 
in the beginning of summer, or early in autumn, when I 
the summer’s growth is all but finished. In old plants, 
however, top-dressing annually, and a little manure- 
water at the times stated, will keep the plants healthy 
for years. 
Insects. —Green-fly, and spider, and thrip, all come i 
at times, but they are comparatively harmless when 
contrasted with a white scale (Aspidiotus nerii), which 
is almost sure to attack the plants, especially when they 
become old. The best remedy for this is washing the 
plants with gum-water, and, in a few days, syringing it 
oft’ with water at 140°; or, if you did not mind the 
appearance, immersing the plant in a thin clay puddle 
until every part was covered, and allowing it to remain 
to dry on for a couple of days, and then rubbing it off j 
between your hands, or with a hair broom, and then 
using the syringe to clear away all impurities. You will 
find ample directions for paints, and compositions, and 
smearings for ridding plants of insects, requiring much 
time in concocting them, and no trifling good siller at 
the druggists ; but anything that will just prevent the 
pests getting a puff of fresh air, will be about as valuable 
an antidote as any other thing, however costly. 
B. Fish. 
HOTHOUSE DEPARTMENT. 
EXOTIC OBCHIDACEdE. 
plants that thrive well in pots — (Continued from 
page 203). 
Pesomeria tetragona (Square-stalked P.); Mauritius. 
—This is a curious plant, with a considerable share of 
beauty. The plants grow about a foot high, are square 
stemmed, and the flowers are produced out of the axils 
of the leaves near the top of the stems. The colour is 
a yellowish, bronzy green ; the lip has a few faint spots 
of crimson. They are interesting from a curious circum¬ 
stance that takes place during the action of blooming. 
The name, Pesomeria, is derived from two Greek words, 
pip to, to fall; and mcros, a part. Directly the flower ' 
opens the sepals drop off or fall, the petals and lip 
remaining to constitute the flower, which then lasts a 
considerable time in bloom. Bather scarce. 42s. 
Culture .—Requires the India-house, or warmest part 
of the orchid-house, where there is but one. 
Soil .—The fibrous part of turfy loam, chopped sphag¬ 
num, and rough pieces of turfy peat, in equal parts, with 
a small admixture of broken potsherds and small pieces 
of charcoal, will grow them well. 
Potting .—The best season is when the young shoots 
begin to appear at the base of the square stalks. Fill 
the pots nearly half full of drainage; then place a thin 
layer of moss, and upon that a sufficient quantity of the 
compost, to leave room for the roots to be spread over 
the surface within the pot. Keep the roots, in all cases, 
as near the surface, when the potting is finished, as 
possible. As the shoots are heavy and rather high, it is 
necessary, when new potted, to tie them securely to 
green sticks, one to each. Arrange the stems so as to 
spread them at equal distances from each other. 
Water .—Like all other orchids this plant is benefited 
by a season of rest and a season of growth, but not in 
the highest degree. Water must be given most freely 
during the season of growth, and in smaller quantities, 
and at longer intervals when at rest. Never entirely 
withhold water, because this plant has persistent leaves, 
and thick succulent stalks or pseudo-bulbs, and, in con¬ 
sequence, will not bear without injury extreme drought 
for any length of time. 
Phaius ai,bus (White); Nepaul.—A plant of a hand¬ 
some habit, and free flowerer. Sepals and petals pure 
