THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[August 21. 
32fi 
brim with alternate layers of fruit and sago. Put it in a cool place for 
some little time, and it will become solid. It is best when made shortly 
after breakfast, and allowed to stand till wanted to warm either in an 
oven, over boiling water, or before the tire with a plate turned over it, 
for dinner. The sago boils best when soaked in cold water for a few 
hours before using ; rice is used in exactly the same way. By way of 
change, I sometimes line a basin with the rice or sago, when very thick, 
and spread a thick layer of the same over a large dinner plate. When 
cold and stiff, I turn the basin over it, and with a knife cut the sago 
round the edge of the basin ; the parings I put in the bottom of the 
| basin, and then fill with baked fruit, after which I put the sago in the 
plate on the top of the basin, to act as a cover. The smooth side must 
be upwards. Eaten with mock cream, made as follows, it is delicious :— 
Pour half a pint of boiling milk on a teaspoonful of arrowroot, well mixed 
with a small quantity of the same; stir the mixture well, and have the 
white of an egg well beaten, and when about half cold add it, and, 
placing the whole over the fire, stir till it nearly boils, then strain for use.” 
Lettuces (A Lover of Sain da). — If you grow the Paris White Cos, 
employ a very rich, cool soil, and give abundance of water, your let- 
I tuces will form good hearts. We saw a bed of this variety a few days 
since, growing near the side of a river, many of which weighed three 
pounds, and some four pounds. 
Entomology (E. P .).— No insect came with your letter ; nor do we 
profess to give the names of insects not connected with gardening. 
Cabbageworts (D. A. B.). — Your Walcheren Brocoli producing 
small flowers on separate spikes, must have been from cross-impregnated 
seed, which will happen sometimes to the most careful seedsmen. Were 
we in your place, we should plough up the thin Lucerne, and re-sow it on 
the better soil now occupied by your wheat. It will not thrive anywhere 
unless kept very clean by repeated lioeings. 
Pale Fuchsia. — II/. W. says :—“ For the information of your corres¬ 
pondent, Devonian, I beg to state that I have a Fuchsia, Sir Henry Pot- 
tinger, I think, is its name, which I doubt not in the delicious climate of 
the south of Devon, would soon rival Coralina. In my conservatory, in 
the comparatively cold climate of Hampstead, it is covered with flowers 
j (I have often counted thirty in a bunch), and makes very long shoots.” 
Hedyciiium Flavum in open air. —A correspondent, Mr. E. Par- 
fitt, says ;—“ Being shown a plant of the Hedychium flavum, growing 
by the side of a pond at Parker’s Well House, near Exeter, I thought it 
rather remarkable, as it has stood planted out where it is now, these two 
last winters, without protection, and at the same time, it is a plant cul- 
| tivated in our stoves. I have one now coming into flower in my stove. 
[ The plant out-doors of course does not grow so fast as they do in-doors, 
but this one is about three feet in height, this season’s growth, and I 
think, if we get a fine autumn, it may flower. There was a plant of the 
Date Palm, Phoenix dactylifera, planted out the same time as the Hedy¬ 
chium, but it was killed the first winter.” 
Errors.— At page 281, col. 2, line 18, for “breaking,” read “beating;” 
line 40, for “Is. 3d.” read “ one-third ; ” and at page 282, col. 1, line 46, 
for “ premiere ,” read “premier," and for “ conte," read “ coute." 
Heliotrope Leaves turning Black ( T. P. /,.).—We cannot tell 
j the cause of this, without knowing where the plant is placed. Probably 
the air is too dry. Directions for making a hotbed of leuves will be found 
at page 307 of our last volume. No hotbed will retain its heat unless 
five feet long, three feet wide, and of the same depth. 
Marble Stained (J. W. B .).— Most probably a little muriatic acid 
will remove the stain of dirty water from your mantlepiece. Wash off 
the acid immediately the stain has been acted upon. 
Golden Chain Geranium ( Pelarg ). — You never will grow this 
variety in your rich garden border. Plant it in a mixture of one-third 
peat, one-third sand, and one-third of soft brick-bats, broken into very 
small pieces, and you will not complain of its not growing true and 
healthy. 
Fuchsia Bed (J. B. A.). — You ask for six fuchsias to plant round 
Coralina in a circular bed, 8 ft. 6 in. diameter. For whites, plant One- 
in-the-Ring , Beauty Supreme (Kendal’s), Elegans (Turvil’s), or Cus- 
sandra. For reds, Globosa major, Eximia, and Shylock, or Lord Nelson. 
The distance to be two feet or thirty inches from the centre one, and 
two feet apart from each other; but after three years, they must be 
removed farther apart. Or, else, plant duplicates now, to be taken out 
when the others grow strong enough to fill the bed. The standard roses 
you wish to plant between the fuchsias must be of the strongest hybrid 
perpetuals, to be able to keep up with the fuchsias; their stems not to 
be under a yard high, and let them be placed between Coralina and the 
others. 
German Plants ( Ystrad ). —We presume you mean the miniature 
plants, now getting rather common, much on the same principle that 
“the Celestials” admire stumps for feet in their ladies, only, in our 
opinion, much more interesting. Your object is to keep them healthy, 
and yet prevent them growing larger, and you want to know how often 
you must water them, and it any should be allowed to remain in the 
saucers. This, you will perceive, must be regulated on principles of 
watering, not seldom referred to. If in exposed situations, and the pots 
unplunged, they may require water several times a-day when it is very 
hot, and perhaps, only once a-week, when it is dull and cool. In the 
former case, a little may be allowed to stand in the saucer with propriety. 
Any light sandy soil, such as peat and loam, or a handful such as you can 
obtain at the roadsides, msy be used for filling up the pots, where it has 
been spilled or sunk. Farther than keeping the plants healthy, you 
must be moderate in watering, and everything else. Frequent sprinklings 
of water over the foliage will be better than deluging at the roots. The 
1 subject may again be referred to. 
Portable Greenhouse (An Old Subscriber). —We are sorry that 
your communication has been mislaid, but you would find most of what 
you wanted in answers to correspondents, and in an article by Mr. Fish 
lately. You can get up but a small greenhouse for ^40, unless, like the 
builder of “ the £5 greenhouse,” you can do the most of the work, or, at 
least, superintend it yourself. We can only give general advice ; a brick¬ 
layer or a carpenter w'ould be the best to consult. A span-roofed house, 
lacing east and west, would answer your purpose best, as you only want 
to keep plants in winter chiefly, and then you might have vines up both 
sloping sides of the roof. To be portable it is best to make definite 
arrangements with the ground landlord, and then the house should be 
made in pieces, Crystal Palace fashion. Flint glass would increase the 
expense, but would look better. As a hybernatory for plants in the cold 
months, front lights might be dispensed with, if the side w'alls are not 
above four feet in height. If easily procured these may be of brick, but 
the cheapest plan, where wood could be got plentiful and cheap, would 
be to have a concrete foundation, from six inches to a foot above the 
ground level, on this have home-grown timber logs, three or four inches 
in thickness, as the basis of your superstructure ; make the side walls of 
feather-edged boarding; a stoutish beam at the top of this, and one in 
the centre, fastened there with two pieces at each end, would be all the 
strong wood you would require; as cross-rafters might be altogether 
dispensed with by using bars of home-grown timber, at least two inches 
and a half in width, and at a distance of 15 or 18 inches from each other, 
having the glass cut to that width, but about half as much in length ; in 
fact, putting the long part of the square of glass across, instead of length¬ 
wise. Then all the glass would be fixed, only the roof might be in several 
pieces for packing. A flap-board in several pieces should be fixed all the 
length of the apex of the roof, for giving air ; and similar conveniences 
can be made in the side walls, whether of brick or wood. If feather- 
edged, any crevice could be stuffed with moss, and if that should not be 
neat enough, a double wall could easily be formed, and the space filled with 
sawdust, Such a house would require £6 or £7 to heat it with hot- 
water. A flue would be cheaper. A short flue, combined with the Pol- 
maise principle, would be cheapest of all. For the purpose wanted, there 
would be no necessity for the finest glass. Suitable enough, we presume, 
might be obtained at first cost, from 2d. to 3d. per foot. We do not 
know if we could advise any more economical mode of going to work. If 
anything more is wanted, we will be happy to attend to it; but expense is 
a thing that is always regulated by local considerations. 
Candle Plant. —T. M. W. suggests that this is the Kleinia arti- 
nulata, by which we suppose our correspondent means Cacalia articulata, 
known in some places as “ the Roman Candle Plant.” It is a succulent, 
native of the Cape of Good Hope. Our correspondent wishes to know 
the botanical name of “ The Rambling Sailor; ” can he send us a speci¬ 
men ? 
Eight Fruit Trees (Jane B.). — Apples (Dessert). Pitmanston Non¬ 
pareil, and Sturmer Pippin. (Kitchen.) Northern Greening, and Haw- 
thornden. Pears. Beurre Diel, and Jargonelle. Plums. Smith’s Orleans, 
and Golden Drop. If you refer to page 317 of our fifth volume, you will 
find full lists and particulars to enable you to choose for yourself. In 
your cold clayey soil, on no account plant in any other way than on 
stations, if you wish to escape canker and blight. 
Diseased Melon Leaves (H. W.). —Without knowing your soil, 
temperatures, or treatment, how can you expect us to give an opinion as 
to. the cause of vegetable disease ? We can only guess that you have not 
kept the air of the frame moist and warm enough; but the same dis¬ 
organization might be produced by other causes. 
Peach, Nectarine, and Apricot-trees Neglected ( Clapham ).— I 
Train in the branches without the loss of a day, removing all that are ! 
fore-right and superfluous. You may get the wood ripened enough to be 
productive next year. 
Heraclkum Giganteum (Rev. J. S. L.). —A single specimen on your 
lawn would not look well, its growth is too stiff and coarse, but it would 
look very well in front of any group of shrubs. 
Our Volumes (J. Betsworth). —Our volumes begin with the first 
Thursday in October and April, so you can reckon for yourself. The 
present volume, of course, extends from the beginning of April to the end 
of September. 
Greengage (Harriett). —There is no variety superior to the old one. ! 
The best early Strawberry is Keen’s Seedling. Graft your seedling apple- j 
tree when as thick as your little finger. 
Rose Leaves Mildewed (Grasmere). —They will not be so affected 
if you mulch over the roots of the rose-trees, and keep them well watered 
in dry weather. 
Florists’ Verbenas (Langley). —There is no better way of pre¬ 
serving the first opened flowers of a Verbena till the whole opens, than 
keeping them dry. 
Uniting Swarms (31.).— For fourpence you can have our No. 35, 
which contains an account of effecting this, too long for extraction. 
Salvias (C. R. R.).—Salvia cliamcedrioides is the only blue Salvia for 
a bed, after Patens, but quite of a different habit, being a sort of a 
trailing plant, and is best trained down low on the ground, and then the 
flowering branches allowed to rise. It drops the flowers as much as 
Patens. There is only one white Campanula carpatica, and it is as 
white as virgin snow. It lasts from the end of June to the end of Sep¬ 
tember, unless the season and situation is too dry for it, when it is off by 
the middle of Sejitember, or earlier. 
Roses (31. Fermanagh). —In a beu four-and-a-lialf feet wide, plant a 
row of dwarf standards, four feet apart, along the centre, and a row of 
dwarf or bush roses on either side of it, also at four feet apart. Plant 
them at the beginning of November. Half-standards are from 30 to 36 
inches high in the stems ; the dwarf ones may be budded on six-inch 
stocks, or on their own roots; plant none in this select bed but autumn- 
flowerers. You may put in lots of the best Pansies between the Roses, 
Bulbs, and, indeed, any low plant that does not suck the ground much. 
Bed of Greenhouse Plants. —There are five thousand greenhouse plants, j 
and at least fifty ways of managing them in beds. 
Aciiimenes (Ibid). —Unless you have the seeds by you, we would not j 
recommend you to sow seeds of Achimenes at all. One root, two inches 
long, broken into small scales, and put in like seeds, will make a great 
number of plants, that will flower the same season. March is the best 
time to sow seeds of them. You would lose the w hole if you were to sow 
in the autumn. 
London: Printed by Harry Wooldridge, Winchester High-street, 
in the Parish of Saint Mary Kalendar; and Published by William I 
Somerville Orr, at the Office, No. 2, Amen Corner, in the Parish of 
Christ Church, City of London.—August 21st, 1851. 
