42 
Modesta (Ambrose), upper petals pale pink; lower 
petals clear white ; very distinct, showy, and good. 
Orestes (Gaines), bright rosy pink; light blush margin; 
white centre ; distinct. 
Othello (Henderson), upper petals dark rich maroon, 
with an even light margin ; under petals pale blush, 
j with a distinct belt in the centre of each ; form good. 
Pictenata (Ambrose), upper petals rosy carmine; lower 
petals distinctly spotted with cherry colour; form good. 
Queen Superb (Ambrose), large blush white, with 
bright pink blotch on the upper petals; a free bloomer. 
Peine des Fleurs (Henderson), upper petals violet 
j plum, broadly margined with white, slightly marked 
j with rosy purple. 
Richard Cobden (Ambrose), upper petals rich dark 
velvet, with a clear margin of white; lower petals rich 
crimson, with a large white centre; a fine-formed flower, 
of good habit. 
Roland Oashel (Gaines), upper petals pure white, 
with a large crimson spot in the centre; lower petals 
the same; a very fine distinct variety. 
Sambo (Ayres), rich purplish crimson; upper petals 
nearly black; very fine. 
Superba (Ambrose), dark crimson upper petals, edged 
with pink; lower petals blush, with dark markings; 
very fine. 
Fnique (Gaines) colour lake, edged with white; novel 
and good. 
Velutinum elegans (Clniuviere), dark velvety maroon, 
with veins ol white; beautiful form and habit; extra 
fi ne - T. Aju>leby. 
LYCOPODIUMS. 
(Continued from page 321, vol. ix.) 
A Correspondent has reminded mo that I have not 
finished this subject, which is quite true, and the reason 
is, there are soveral species in our stoves that are not 
yet either named or described. I have waited for them 
to be named by some botanist who takes a delight in 
these really pretty plants, but in vain. As far as I am 
aware, no names have as yet been given to them, and in 
! my present position I have not the means either of 
growing or studying them. Perhaps, when I have put 
my out-doors subjects into order, and have put up more 
glass, I may be able to cultivate them and my favourite 
orchids once more ; and then I hope to be able to give 
a better account of Lycopodiums. A collector of 
orchids, who has travelled in various localities where 
these lively green and shaded purple-leaved plants grow, 
informed me that the species are very numerous, and if 
there was any demand for them they might be col¬ 
lected in great numbers. Another correspondent wishes 
for information how to grow them in pots; and another 
desires to know how they may be cultivated in Wardian 
cases. I have great pleasure in answering these 
queries; and as the replies would occupy too much 
space under the head “ Answers to Correspondents,” I 
shall throw my remarks together, in this place, com- 
menciug first, with their culture in pots. 
Propagation: bg cuttings. — All the late growing 
species may be easily propagated by cuttings. The 
greater part of them, if grown in a moist heat, push out 
roots all the way up the stems or branches. When it is 
desired to put in cuttings (the spring is the best 
time), prepare some small pots, such as those known 
by the name of thumbs, fill them nearly full of the 
compost I shall by-and-by describe, and upon that 
place a layer of silver sand, then take off a cutting 
about an inch or two long, furnished with a root made 
in the air, make a hole in the centre of the pot 
with a rather thick stick suddonly sharpened to a 
: point, place the cutting in it immediately it is cut 
A pril 21. 1 
| 
off, for the tender root will not bear the least 
time exposed to the air after it is cut off from the 
plant, therefore, it is desirable only to take off one 
at a time. As soon as it is planted, give as much water 
as will level up the hole in the sand. It is the property 
of sand, when it is watered, to run level, if the vessel 
containing it stands level. Every propagator knows 
this, and waters his cuttings of every kind for that 
purpose, as well as for moistening it. Having finished 
the first cutting, proceed so with the next, and so on 
till all are planted. Then place them under a tight- 
fitting hand-light set upon a heated surface of sand or 
coal-ashes;—or they will strike fresh roots freely in a 
common hotbed. In either case, they will require 
shading from the sun for a fortnight or three weeks, 
after which they may be gradually inured to bear the j 
full light and air. As soon as that is the case, give 
them a shift unto 34-inch pots, and place them in a ! 
shady part of the stove to be subjected to the ordinary 
treatment. 
By Division. —The greater number of Lycopods may I 
be increased by this method, and larger plants obtained 
at once and in a shorter time. The method of doing it 
may be exemplified in L. apodutn, one of the prettiest 
in the genus. This and similar plants or varieties 
push out, when growing, almost as many roots as leaves, 
and all they require is to take a largish plant, turn it 
out of the pot, and with the fingers gently separate it 
into separate pieces about the size of lialf-a-crowu. Put 
these singly into suitably sized pots, and place them in 
a similar situation as mentioned above for the cuttings. 
A week or ten days will be quite sufficient length of 
time to establish them as plants, after which they should 
be removed into the stove, and treated as plants that 
have not been divided. The following maybe increased 
by division:— L. apodmn, L. apothecium, L. circinatum, 
L. cordatum, L. ccesium, L. denticulum, L. lepidophyllum, 
L. stoloniferum, and L. umbrosum, besides some un¬ 
named ones. The others require to be propagated by 
cuttings. 
Summer Treatment. — Soil. —The roots of Lycopods 
are long and wiry, breaking out at the ends into bunches 
of fine fibres; hence, it is necessary to have a light, 
open compost to grow them in. To form this the 
following are necessary ;—Very fibry loam, that is, turf 
with the roots of grasses in it undecomposed, very fibry 
peat, half-decayed tree leaves, and chopped moss, either 
green or white, though I prefer the latter where it can 
be had. Equal parts of all these, mixed together in a 
half-dry state, make a light, open medium in which the 
roots will travel with ease, and find nutriment for the 
plants. All of them arc not indispensable, for these 
plants will grow in anything that water will pass 
through. I have grown them in nothing but moss 
itself; but in that, though they did well enough for a 
time, yet, when the light of long days acted upon them, 
they began to turn yellow at the lower parts of the 
branches, and finally became so unsightly that I was 
obliged to throw them away. I have grown them also 
in sandy loam, but this I found to be too close, and the 
plants did not grow satisfactorily in it alone. Moss, I 
consider, should, in all cases, be mixed with the soil; 
there is a lightness and buoyancy in it that prevents the 
soil becoming too close, and it decomposes so slowly that 
the soil remains open and permeable to the roots for a 
long time, to say nothing of its fertilizing properties, ; 
as it slowly yields them. The moss should be finely 
chopped and put through a fine-meshed sieve. It then 
readily mixes with the loam, peat, and leaves. To this 
compost add a liberal allowance of sand: the silver is ! 
the best, but the common river sand will answer very 
well. If all the materials of this compost be mixed 
together thoroughly at the time of potting, it will be 
advisable to pass it through a very coarse sieve, which j 
THE COTTAGE GAEDENEB, 
