June 1G. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
199 
Position, Temperature, (to. —A cucumber-box, or a 
melon-frame, is just tlie place for a young plant in the 
spring or early summer months. Time is thus gained. 
A bottom-beat of 75° to 80°, and a top-beat of 60°, with 
15° rise for sunshine, will suit it admirably when in 
I that state. Growing must be everything that is thought 
I about. Stopping has been already referred to. Towards 
the end of July, the bottom-heat must be discontinued, 
i and more air given, and as much unchecked light as 
the foliage will stand. Increase the air, and expose 
; fully in mornings and afternoons in August. 13y the i 
end of that month, while the pot is protected from the 
sun, the branches should be fully exposed to its influ¬ 
ence, never putting on the sashes unless in heavy rains. 
By the middle of October, the plants should have an 
open, sunny place in the greenhouse; and, during the 
winter, an average temperature of from 10° to 45° will 
suit them. If thus grown, and exposed in the previous 
season, every shoot will have its flower-bud in embryo, 
and thus a higher temperature at any time will cause it 
to be developed. As a forced plant, or as a denizen of 
! the stove at that period, it will bloom in winter, but 
1 the colour will not be so bright as in summer. An 
| average temperature of from 50° to (30° seems necessary 
’ to the free opening of its flowers, and, therefore, when 
I not forced, it will bloom naturally in the greenhouse 
when the lengthened days give the requisite tempera¬ 
ture. When kept in a greenhouse, after it is several 
days old, care should be taken, after it blooms, to prune 
it a little, and then encourage growth by keeping the 
plant warm and moist there, or by giving it these 
requisites in a close, cold pit. The great thing is, first, 
to secure growth, then the ripening of that growth, and 
then blooming is certain. The winter season should be 
viewed purely as a season of rest. The less growth 
then, the more likely is increased temperature to bring 
flower-buds along with it. During growth, and when 
starting into bloom, the syringe should be freely used: 
it promotes health, a moist atmosphere, and keeps the 
red spider at a safe distance. When a plant is from 
three years and upwards from the cutting, it will do 
admirably planted-out in a conservatory. In a short 
time it may be pruned freely, keeping in mind to have 
plenty of shoots, but not too thick, or the individual 
masses of flowers will be small. When thus planted, 
the same principles of culture will be kept in view. 
The heat of April or May will bring out the blossoms; 
the warmth of summer will cause the growth to be 
made; and, for want of the means of removing the 
j glass in autumn, the roots must be allowed to get rather 
I dry, and thus the wood will be consolidated and ma- 
j tured. I may also mention, that when kept in a green- 
j house in pots, it must not have much water in winter. 
A little weak manure-water will be of service during the 
growing and blooming periods. 
I find I have forgotten to say anything of shifting or 
repotting. Beginners with small plants had better use 
I small shifts and often. With bottom-heat, and due 
; attention to watering, &c., few things grow more vigor- 
I ously under a large shift, such as transferring from a 
| four-inch pot to an eight-inch pot. A pot from eight to 
i twelve inches in diameter will grow a nice little speci¬ 
men ; and where room is an object that would be a 
good size to keep them to. AVith oldish plants, the 
best time to shift is when growth is proceeding freely 
after flowering and pruning. The old soil may then 
be gently shaken away, the roots slightly pruned, and 
the plant be repotted in a similar sized pot, kept close 
and shaded for a few days afterwards, and syringed 
often to prevent evaporation. R. Fish. 
THE PINK. 
Previous to giving a select list of this my peculiarly 
favourite flower, I shall, as brielly as is consistent 
with usefulness, give a few hints on its culture. I am 
happy to find it is becoming a favourite with the public 
generally, which may arise from the ease with which it 
can bo cultivated and propagated, and because it is 
the hardiest of all Florists’ Flowers. These favourable 
points recommend this lovely, fragrant flower to every 
one possessing a garden at a moderate distance from 
the smoke of large towns. Then, besides these accom¬ 
modating qualities of easy growth and easy propaga¬ 
tion, the price of good varieties is a passport of favour 
that few other Florists’ Flowers can boast of. The very 
best kinds may be had for from 9s. to 12s. per dozen, 
thus bringing it within the means of a large circle of 
the lovers of flowers who have a garden. 
Propagation. —The Pink may be propagated in the 
same way, in every respect, as the Carnation and Pico- 
tee, that is, by seed, by cuttings, or, as they are techni¬ 
cally called, by pipings, and by layers. The last-named 
mode, however, is rarely resorted to, because this flower 
roots so freely by pipings. I may just mention, that the 
best time for putting in pipings is the month of June, 
towards the middle or latter end. By striking them 
thus early, they have time to become strong, well- 
established plants, fit for planting-out early in the au¬ 
tumn; and, by being planted thus early, they make 
strong plants before the winter sets in, and are, conse- 
sequently, less liable to be drawn out of the soil by 
frost. It is a great recommendation that the Pink 
requires to be grown in beds, in the open air, thus 
'saving the expense of pots, stages, frames, &c., which 
we are obliged to use for the Carnation. 
The Seed should be sown on the same principles as 
other Florists’ Flowers; that is, from such as are as 
perfect as possible. It should be gathered as soon as 
it is ripe, be laid in the sun for a few days to cause the 
pods to open, and then be cleaned and kept till March. 
Sow it in shallow boxes or pans, or on a warm borde^; 
and as soon as the plants are large enough, plant them 
out where they are to bloom. They will all bloom the 
succeeding season, and the good ones (if any) should 
be named, propagated, and treated like the old-estab¬ 
lished varieties. As they are so hardy, even a cottager 
may raise seedlings, and is just as likely to obtaiu good 
new kinds as the most distinguished florist, provided he 
takes due care in selecting and saving the seed. The 
only covering the Pink requires is a mulching over 
the beds during severe frosts. I have found decayed 
leaves a very effectual one, as is short litter, not too 
much decayed. This covering I allow to remain on till 
the flowers are expanded; it shelters the roots from 
the heat of the sun, and prevents the dry weather from 
acting upon the soil. To prevent too much damp in 
wet weather, it is a good plan to give the beds a 
rounded form, highest in the middle, and sloping off 
to the sides. This shelters them from the ill effects 
of heavy rains, keeping the soil only moderately moist. 
No weeds must be allowed to advance beyond the 
seed-leaf; and great attention must be bestowed in 
destroying snails, slugs, and wireworms, which pests 
are quite as destructive, even to this hardy flower, as to 
Carnations and other flowers. The green fly, in dry 
weather, sometimes attacks them, but may be destroyed 
with Scotch snuff, or by syringing with tobacco-water. 
Shelters. —When in bloom, to preserve the flowers, it 
is necessary to shelter them from rain, wind, and sun. 
Hardy though this flower is, it is sadly tarnished and 
spoilt if exposed to these destroyers of its bright hues. 
The bed may be covered with hoops and canvass, or, 
what I prefer, parasol-formed caps, such as I described 
lately for the Carnation, may be used. I like these 
