332 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
before the wood gets hard, It may yet be done'with Oranges, Camellias, 
&c. Cinerarias, propagate by rooted slips, and transfer the earliest 
to blooming pots. Pelargoniums : those done flowering cut down, 
and now pushing again may have the soil shaken from them, be placed 
in light soil, and in a close moist pit, to encourage free growth. Until 
that growth has taken place, however, give little water at the roots. In 
growing from cuttings', success will greatly depend in never allowing 
them to stand still, but keeping them constantly, but slowly, growing. 
Cut down successional plants as they get out of bloom. The fancy kinds, 
if the points and old flowers are merely removed, will flower again 
before winter. Greenhouse Plants in General, if healthy, and 
their wood made, will be better out-of-doors in a sheltered place than 
within ; defending the pots from being too much heated in sunshine is 
even of more importance than shading the tops. All Young Stock 
growing freely begin to harden by exposure by the end of the month. 
Potting: finish shifting as soon as possible, that the plants may be 
feeling the outside of the pots before winter. Chrysanthemums, 
Salvias, he., for winter blooming, set in an open place fully exposed 
to sun and air. The former must not be stopped any more. The latt.er 
should alone receive final stopping and shifting. Propagation : 
almost everything may now be successfully propagated. The whole of 
the Succulent Geranium Family will do best on a south border. 
Climbers, on the rafters, train when over rampant, but the more natural 
looking the better, By and by they must be cut in to allow more light 
to the plants. Gather Seeds of all desirable things as they ripen. 
The propagating of half-hardy things, such as Calceolarias, may 
commence about the end of the month. About the middle of the month, 
sow seed of herbaceous kinds in a cool pit. Watering will not 
be wanted quite so much, unless the days are very bright. In such days 
use the syringe among growing plants freely in the afternoon. Dress, 
tie, surface earth, and keep all neat and clean. R. Fish. 
FRUIT-FORCING DEPARTMENT. 
As long as the temperature will permit, admit Air day and night. 
Allow the Temperature to range, with sun-lieat, from 65° to 85°, and 
during night from 55° to 65°. Figs, water liberally. Give the last 
shifting, early in the month, to those Pines intended for early fruiting 
next season ; let others follow in succession ; keep down superfluous 
suckers; use abundance of atmospheric moisture. Clear ripe Grapes 
from all diseased and mouldy berries; admit abundance of air. Keep 
down, or, rather, keep away, the Red Spider, by lighting a fire on dull 
days, and brushing the pipes or flues with a thin mixture of sulphur and 
water. Thin freely the late crops, and water the Vines in dry weather 
with liquid manure, also use mulchings. Give Peach-houses, from 
which the fruit has been gathered, copious syringings ; and get the wood 
hardened and ripened before removing the sashes. Regulate and stop 
the shoots, and set the fruit on Melon plants; use manure-water 
liberally. Strike cuttings, or sow seeds, of Cucumbers intended for a 
late supply. Encourage the completion of growth of all Plants in Pots 
intended for forcing, and place those fully matured at the back of a north 
wall. Lay Strawberries in small pots, to be shifted into larger. 
Turn Bark Beds. Paint, wash. Clear out furnaces, empty and rinse 
out boilers, and have everything in readiness for a cold weather campaign. 
R. Errington. 
ORCHARD. 
Budding, finish, and remove bandages from that done three weeks 
since. Remove waste shoots from stocks, especially below the bud. 
Blight (American), apply the brush once more, using spirits of turpen¬ 
tine. Aphides, still try to extirpate them in peaches, plums, &c. Red 
Spider ; if this appears, dust flowers of sulphur on the back'of the leaves. 
Cherries, net carefully, Coccus, or scaly insect; if this appears, use 
soap-suds. Figs, continue to disbud, and commence stopping rambling 
shoots. Vines, follow up stopping of laterals, and keep them thin ; also 
thin the berries. Apricots, stop gross leaders, and keep down breast 
shoots by pinching. Peaches and Nectarines, stop all gross shoots, 
and keep under breast wood by the same process; where too thick, 
remove shoots altogether. Pears, remove foreright spray, thinning or 
stopping the wood freely, first selecting and tying down all short-jointed 
and brown-looking wood. Protect fruit with nets &c. Wasps. 
destroy nests. Late Strawberries, water well. Alpines, reduce 
runners from, and place slates or tiles beneath. Strawberries, make 
plantations of early and strong runners. Raspberries (double-bear¬ 
ing), remove all barren shoots from, and carefully train those in blossom. 
Tomatoes, thin, stop, and train. Commence and complete, as soon as 
possible, all Nailing and Training, whether on walls, pales, or 
espalier trellisses. Gooseberries, still continue the extirpation of 
caterpillars. Bush Fruit, retard by shading with mats. Grafts, 
remove stock shoots from, and protect from wind waving. 
R. Errington. 
ORCHID HOUSE. 
Air, give plentifully on all fine days, to consolidate the now fast¬ 
forming new pseudo-bulbs. Baskets, dip every week in tepid water. 
Blocks, syringe twice a day. Barkerias now growing, keep very 
moist till the annual growth is made; allow the air to play freely upon 
them, this will strengthen the plants much. Dendrobiums: many 
will have made their new pseudo-bulbs, cease giving much water to these, 
and remove them into a cooler house. Epidendrums in the same con¬ 
dition, give a similar treatment to. Grammatophyllum, a noble 
orchid, continue growing on yet. Huntleyas, having no pseudo-bulbs, 
continue to keep moderately moist and cool. Insects, diligently keep 
under, or they will be a pest all the year, and be difficult to eradicate in 
winter. Lielias will now be growing freely, be liberal, and use the 
syringe frequently; if on blocks, add a thin layer of moss to give and retain 
July 28. | 
I 
moisture about the roots. Moisture to the Internal Air, continue 
to supply daily, especially in the growing department. Peristeria 
elata, and all similar terrestrial species, keep moist as long as the bulbs 
continue to swell, but not a moment longer. Plants in Baskets, 
remove into a cooler house when in bloom, or as soon as the new growth 
is perfected. All plants that have made their pseudo-bulbs quite up 
should have the benefit of a lower and drier atmosphere. This point 
must be strictly attended to, because if they are kept moist they will 
start to growth the second time, which will weaken stronger growth 
and materially injure the blooms. The success of next year’s bloom 
depends much upon the strength of the preceding year’s growth, together 
with a judicious period of rest, induced by a cool and dry treatment. 
T. Appleb . | 
PLANT STOVE. 
Achimenes done flowering, set out-of-doors, laying the pots on one 
side, to keep the bulbs at rest, and free from wet. Air, give liberally 
through the whole month, unless cold wet days intervene toward the end. 
Cuttings, pot off as soon as struck, because the time is short for them to 
acquire strength to carry them through the winter. Gloxinias and 
Gesneras, as they cease blooming, treat the same as Achimenes. 
Heat, keep under as much as possible, but have the flues and pipes in 
good order for working, as cold nights might come towards the latter 
end. Insects, destroy as much as possible, or they will rapidly increase, 
Ixoras, specimens of, top-dress and tie out, so as to form handsome 
bushes of a rather pyramidal form. Young plants give a shift to, b.; 
stop and tie out; moisture, supply plentifully both to the roots of the 
plants, and to the internal air. Passion-flowers, and other climbers, 
trim in freely, and tie them so as to allow plenty of light to descend 
amongst the plants. Plants in Frames, top dress and repot if 
needful; give plenty of air to, and water only in the mornings. Sponge, 
use freely to clear the leaves from dust and insects; this is preferable to 
so much syringing. Water more moderately as the days shorten. 
Weeds and decaying leaves remove daily. T. Appleby. 
KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
Particular attention should be paid to Sowing from the 1st up to the 
12th of this month, as so many of our best vegetables and flowers are 
produced for the next season from the sowing made at the above-men¬ 
tioned time; the Cauliflower only should be deferred until about the 21st 
of the month. Alexanders and Angelica, sow, and attend to earth¬ 
ing-up that in growth. Artichokes, cut away the heads of, whether 
required for use or not, for if allowed to run to flower they will very 
much exhaust the roots. Asparagus, attend to ; keep clear from weeds ; 
should any branches be falling about over pathways let them be tied up 
to sticks rather than cut away. Basil, attend to; cut and dry off 
steadily when in bloom. Borage, sow, and thin out growing crops, or 
earth-stir and look after seeds. Borecoles, Brocolis, and Brussels 
Sprouts, plant out as early as possible; do not spare manure among 
any of the cabbage tribe. Cabbages, sow of any favourite kinds ; also 
a little Red Dutch for pickling; and prick out for planting out next 
month. Carrots (Early Horn), sow on dry warm borders for early 
spring use: keep the growing crops clear from weeds. Capsicums en¬ 
courage the growth of by earth-stirring. Cauliflowers, sow out in 
open quarters, so as to have a stock of healthy sturdy plants about the 
21st to the24th, to stand the winter ; also plant, and water well. Celery, 
plant out in earnest, and attend to earthing-up advancing crops in dry 
weather. Cress (American), sow. Cucumbers, attend to thinning, 
topping, and clearing away all decayed leaves, either in pits, frames, or 
out-door crops ; cuttings may be struck of any favourite kinds for autumn 
and winter growth. Endive, sow, plant, or prick in succession, and 
tie up, or cover up, full grown for blanching. Herbs of all kinds, cut and 
dry when in flower. Hoeing, attend to at all favourable opportunities. 
Leeks, plant out. Lettuces, sow Brown Cos and Hardy Hammer¬ 
smith, the two best kinds for general culture. Melons, give plenty of 
air to; be sparing of the water among those ripening off' their fruit; 
encourage the growth of the younger crops just swelling off their fruit 
with about three liberal waterings of liquid manure-water; let it be given 
steadily from the spout of the water-pot, and principally at the back 
part of the beds, and not over the crowns of the plants; and sprinkle 
almost daily in hot, dry weather, at shutting-up time. Onions, sow of 
the silver-skinned kind, being most hardy, to stand the winter ; keep the 
advancing crops clear from weeds, and press down stiff-necked towards 
the end of the month, as cases may require. Parsley, cut down or 
transplant, or sow, and collect seed. Potatoes, if early and ripe, may 
be taken up and stored away in a cool situation, for present use, in par¬ 
ticular where the ground is wanted for some other immediate crop. 
Radishes, sow, if required. Savoys, plant out as early as possible. 
Seeds of all kinds, collect as fast as they ripen, or the birds will make 
sad havoc among them. Sorrels, keep flower-stems cut away. 
Spinach, sow, of the prickly seeded kind, in well prepared borders ; 
and sow in drills ten inches apart, Sweet Marjoram, see Basil. 
Turnips, sow, of the little early kinds, any time during the month, and 
attend to thinning and hoeing advancing crops. Should the weather be 
very hot and dry, Water thoroughly previously to sowing the various 
seeds, and if a little shading could be given from ten to three in the 
afternoon, until the plants are up, all the better. T. Weaver. 
London : Printed by Harry Wooldridge, Winchester High-street, 
in the Parish of Saint Mary Kalendar; and Published by William 
Somerville Orr, of Church Hill, Walthamstow, in the County of 
Essex, at the Office, No. 2, Amen Cornar, in the Parish of Christ 
Church, City of London.—July 28th, 1853. 
