August 25. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
411 
folia, Cytisus prolifcrus, and cnnaricnsis; Coronilla glauca, Daphne 
odora indica; Cinerarias, potted early in autumn ; Scarlet Geraniums, 
allowed to bloom but little in summer; Camellias, Mignonette, sow 
now; late-flowering Chrysanthemums, &c. 
Bottom-heat to Pines, by Pipes ( A Constant Reader ).—See an 
article by Mr. Fish lately. For a pit ten feet wide, two four-inch pipes 
will be amply sufficient in the chamber: but you had"*better have two 
other pipes for top-heat. You will see, in the article referred to, how 
Mr. Fleming manages, by bringing the return-pipe under the bed. 
Very likely you would choose to have the top and bottom-heat separate. 
Have means of getting water to this chamber when you wish at any time 
a moist, bottom-heat. Have the top pipe supplied with evaporating 
pans, or troughs, by all means. 
Marking Queen Bees (A.). —Mr. Payne has never marked a queen 
in any way, but it has been done very successfully by Mr. Golding and 
others. It should be the queen of a cast, or second swarm, which is 
always a young queen, and done instantly after hiving. Taking a small 
piece off the antennte would be better than the wing. 
Bees. — C. J. R. “ wishes to know where feeding-troughs can be 
bought, and for information in the following case:— A very strong May 
swarm, weighing now over 30 lb., and too numerous for the hive ; will 
they have time to collect sufficient for the winter if put on a hive stool, 
and the old hive taken ? The hive has been covered externally with 
dense masses of bees for the last three weeks, and little or no working 
appears to be going on.” All kinds of feeding-troughs may be pur¬ 
chased of Messrs. Neighbour, and Marriott, London. Your hive 
weighing 30 lb. must remain as it is, unless you break it up entirely, and 
unite the bees to another stock; the population will now be decreasing 
rapidly, by the killing of drones and the death of workers, so that these 
will have room in plenty within the hive. 
Quinces (An Amateur, Queen’s County). —We sent your letter to Mr. 
Errington, he replies: — We can scarcely imagine what can be the 
reason of your Quinces not ‘setting’ their blossoms. It cannot be a 
matter of soil, as you have one in moist ground, and the other dry. 
Neither can it be deep roots, as one has been transplanted two years’ 
since. The Quince is rather precocious as to blossoming ; try and retard 
one next spring, so as to make it blossom a fortnight later, at least. You 
will find advice in back numbers about retardation. 
the beards desirable. Our correspondent adds—“ 1 also remarked, that 
lacing was always rewarded with a prize, and that although no really 
laced birds were exhibited, there was a very great improvement in this 
respect. The question whv Black Polands with white crests have no 
beards, if they be so essential, has not yet been answered ? ” The only 
answer to this is, that this variety of Polands never have them. 
Feeding Ducks (A. B .)—To keep ducks from trampling in their 
food, put it into a trough behind a railing, through which they can only 
put their head and neck. Cutting off the head is the most speedy and 
least painful mode of killing either ducks or chickens. 
Moth (T. JI7. W .)—It is a very common one, the Drinker (Odonestis l 
potatoria). 
Orleans Plum (S. O. L .)—The withering away of the tree imme- I 
diately after the cutting away of the watery side-shoots was a curious j 
coincidence, but nothing more. The death of the tree arose probably 
from its roots perishing, and this occasioned by their being in an un¬ 
favourable subsoil, saturated with wet during the late winter and 
summer. At all events, nothing would be more likely to kill it. 
Brahma Poutras (W .).—We cannot plead guilty to having not 
declared our opinion of these birds. 
Landlord and Tenant (Amateur).— We fear you have no right to 
remove your greenhouse ; and we are quite sure that you were wrong in 
cutting-down the Apple and Walnut-trees, without permission, to make 
room for the erection. We should not be lenient if we were your land¬ 
lord. If tenants would but do as they would be done by in these matters 
there would not be so many after-complaints. Why not obtain a land¬ 
lord’s consent beforehand ? 
Names of Plants (W. P. Hume). — No. 1. Veronica elegans. No. 2. 
V. orchideu. No. 3. V. neglecta. No. 4. Cistopteris fragile. It is 
always desirable a lower leaf should accompany the specimens of the 
flowers. 
CALENDAR FOR SEPTEMBER. 
Pinus insignis (No Signature).—We never said that Pinus insignis 
was grown 6 ft. 6 in. in a season, anywhere ; and we do not know how to 
grow it so rapidly, or believe one word of the story. 
Clarifying Liciuid-manure (Ihid).— This process does not add to, 
or reduce, the strength of liquid-manure, only reduces its value a little ; 
but lime is not at all the best clarifier—garden soil is by far the best for 
the purpose. The question is one of those convenient ones that will suit 
either side of an argument. If you believe that clarification will improve 
the liquid, it is quite sure to turn out your way, under your own manage¬ 
ment ; but if you bottle some of it, and give it to a friend who has no 
faith in it, you will soon hear that a whole crop was spoiled by your 
nostrum ; but the literal meaning is—it does neither good nor harm. 
Vine Border (I. H. N.). —Oyster-shells, broken into small pieces, 
will be a good mixture with the soil of your vine border. All chalky 
matters, in a small proportion, are useful in such borders, and oyster- 
shells are nearly pure chalk (carbonate of lime). 
Verbena vf.nosa (W. P. B.).— You can obtain this of any of the 
large London Florists. 
Bagging Grates (A Young Vine).—Bag them as soon as nearly ripe. 
We know of no other mode of keeping flies from them. It is too late to 
hatch Shanghae chickens this year. 
Scalding Leaves (A. M. L.).— If the brown marks on leaves are 
caused by the sun’s rays falling on them, it is the excessive heat of those 
j rays which does the mischief. This is proved by the fact, that no injury 
I occurs, however fast the moisture is evaporated, if the bright rays of the 
sun are absent. 
Carman’s Stoves (F. J. L.). —Never having used them to exclude 
j cold from plants, we can give no evidence cither in favour of or against 
I their efficiency. 
i Gates in Chickens.— M. R. says—“ I am very much obliged to 
j your correspondents for their information as to curing the gapes in 
; chicken, though 1 am sorry to say I have not benefited by it. As to the 
drawing-up the worms with a feather, I cannot manage it all; I think I 
push them lower down in the wind-pipe. But as precaution is better 
than cure, I write to say, that I have succeeded in rearing a brood of 
twenty chicken without the complaint, by placing them, as soon as 
hatched, with the hen, in a room in an outhouse, and giving them water 
that had been boiled to. drink. This room has an open window exposed 
to the sun ; but, as 1 found that when they were four weeks old they 
began to droop from the want of more fresh air, as I supposed, I turned 
them out, when they soon revived, and have continued quite well. They 
are now about seven weeks old.” 
Silver Polish Fowls (T. K. A.).— Their topknots ought to be 
white entirely. The white variety, with a perfectly black topknot, is 
still a desideratum. 
Mildew on Melon Plants (J. R.).— Dusting with flowersof sulphur, 
and keeping the air in the frame as dry as is compatible with growth, arc 
your only remedies. 
Blight on Verbenas (Arula). —What you call the blight is really 
a case of long neglected attack of the red spider. Dust frequently under 
the leaves, with a mixture of two parts soot, two parts flowers of sulphur, 
and one part Scotch snuff. 
Tail of Silver-pencilled Hamburgh Cock (Z. V .).—When we 
said the tail should be black, wc spoke of its ground colour. If it had 
not some of its feathers partly marked, or edged with white, the bird 
would be rejected by the judges. 
Unbearded Polands (Scrutator).—The very fact which you state, 
of there being only one pen of unbearded Polands at the Baker-street 
Exhibition, is a strong evidence that the breeders of Polands consider 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Air, give freely in hll houses. Air-moisture, reduce the amount 
gradually. Bottom-iieat must gradually decline; say at least one 
degree weekly until November. Cucumbers, for winter work, must be 
got forward with similar attention as in spring. Cherries for forcing 
may be potted or shifted. Cleaning : let all glass be thoroughly cleaned 
this month ; all painting, lime-washing, done also. Figs, water late 
crops. Forcing (Early), prepare for by getting things to rest. Flues, J 
clean, Grapes, watch ripe berries, use the scissors, remove laterals from. 
Insects, of all kinds subdue. Linings, attend to. Melons, late, give 
spring culture to ; beware of damps. Nectarines, see Peaches. Pines, i 
continue forward culture ; water late swellers ; repot last successions ; and 
harden off the latter class in snug pits. Peaches, remove late laterals ; 
stop remaining leaders; syringe freely; and water at root moderately. 
Painting, carry out. Repairs, complete. Red Spider, subdue. 
Strawberries, in pots, give high culture to ; keep them plunged above 
ground level. Ventilation, attend well to. Vines; progressively 
remove laterals from late crops; apply fire heat daily in all dull weather. 
Vermin, destroy. Wasps, destroy nests. R. Errington. 
FRUIT GARDEN. 
Apples, gather as they arc ready. Apricats, stop all growing wood, 
and remove all spray which shades the buds. Berberries, gather. 
Budding, slacken bandages. Currants, cover to preserve. Cherries, 
late, beware of birds and wasps. Cranberries, collect. Damsons, 
gather. Figs, stop all shoots, and thin out spray. Gooseberries, 
destroy caterpillars, and retard late kinds. Insects, subdue. Mul¬ 
berries, gather. Nuts, gather and store. Nectarines, see Peaches. 
Plums, protect from wasps. Pears, stop all shoots, reduce coarse breast 
wood. Peaches, stop all shoots, remove foliage from ripening fruit. 
Strawberries, plant; destroy runners. Tomatoes, stop growing. 
Vines, stop every shoot and reduce laterals. Vermin, destroy. 
R. Errington. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Aconite (Winter), plant e. Anemones, plant best, c.; sow, b. 
Annuals (Hardy), sow, b. Auriculas not shifted in August now 
remove ; water and shade ; prepare awning to protect in autumn and 
winter; sow, b. Bud perpetual Roses to the end of the month. Bulbous- 
roots, plant for early blooming, e. Carnation layers remove, b. 
Chrysanthemums, plant cuttings, See., b. Cut round the roots 
of large specimens intended to be taken up next month, b. Cut in large 
specimens of geraniums &c., in the beds to be potted, as soon as they 
break, to make specimens of, b. Cuttings of evergreens, put in, b. 
Dahlias, number and make list of, while in perfection,'describing their 
colour, height, &c. Dress borders assiduously. Edgings, trim, plant. 
Evergreens, plant, b.; make layers. Fibrous-rooted perennials, 
propagate by slips, parting roots, &c. Grass, mow and roll; sow, b. 
Gravel, weed and roll. Guernsey Lilies, pot. Heartsease, plant 
cuttings; trimold. Hedges, clip, e; it is the best time. Mignonette, 
sow in pots, to shelter in frames. Rooted Pifings, of pinks, Sic., 
plant out for blooming. Planting Evergreens, generally, commence, 
e. Polyanthuses, plant. Ranunculuses, plant, best, c. ; sow, b. 
Double Rockets, divide and transplant. Roses, cut down, which must 
be removed at Michaelmas, ten days before taking up. Seedlings, plant 
out. Seeds, gather as ripe, and keep down seed-pods in flower-beds. 
Transplant perennials, e. Tuberous-rocted plants, transplant. 
Turf, lay. Verbenas, cut the roots of favourite sorts six inches from 
the stem ; water them, and in three weeks they may be removed safely 
