4L2 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
August 25, 
to be kept in pots; a few plants thus treated are better than many cuttings. 
Water Annuals and other plants in dry weather. Yuccas in, or showing 
for, bloom, give abundance of water to. D. Beaton. 
GREENHOUSE. 
Air, give freely night and day, unless when very stormy. Annuals, 
such as Collinsia, Nemophila, Schizanthus, of sorts, sow towards the 
end of the month, for blooming in spring and early summer. Bulbs, 
pot lor early blooming, such as Hyacinths, Narcissus, Tulips, &c., also 
Lachenalias, Erodiums, &c Camellias, still expose, but defend from 
heavy rains. Cuttings may still be made, and buddings proceeded with. 
Cinerarias, sow for late blooming; prick off seedlings for spring 
flowering; shift into flower-pots for winter flowering. Calceolarias. 
sow seed ; propagate by cuttings under hand-lights, and shift small plants 
already struck ; shrubby kinds for the flower-garden will be time enough 
after the middle of the month. Ericas and Azaleas, get under shelter, ! 
ready to be housed by the end of the month. Geraniums, Myrtles, 
i Salvias, &c., propagate by cuttings, shift into larger pots, to be esta- \ 
blished before winter, and prepare for taking up out of the open border '■ 
by cutting round the roots, doing only one half at a time. Where there | 
is not plenty of room, cuttings struck early will answer better than old I 
plants taken up, and will also save much labour. Glass, Flues &c., 
clean and repair. Plants, clean, tie, arrange. Pots, free from moss 
and filth, and fresh surface with suitable compost. In using new pots I 
for hard-wooded plants, let them all be soaked, and then dried, before 
using. Seedlings of all kinds, prick out as soon as they can be handled. j 
Propagate all half-hardy things, such as Geraniums, Fuchsias, Salvias, j 
and especially Calceolarias, Petunias, Verbenas, ike. ; the last three- i 
named will do better than if struck earlier, the smallest pieces will do : 
best. They may either be planted in light sandy compost, in pots or in 
a bed on a shady border ; if on a north aspect, no shading will be required. 
Water will still be abundantly required for plants growing freely, and 
those intended to bloom in winter, such as Primroses, Cinerarias, and 
Chrysanthemums, should have manure-water given freely. Whenever 
you observe the first flower-bud of a Chrysanthemum, though no larger 
than a pin’s head, you may give the clear manure-water freely. Water 
should be given sparingly to plants that are to be put into a state of rest, 
just keeping them from flagging. All Succulents will now do better next 
season the less water they receive, provided their stems are not rendered 
very limp and soft. Thopceolums, with tuberous roots, pot whenever 
they begin to vegetate ; they do not like shifting, therefore give a good- 
sized pot at once; give very little water until the«pot is getting filled 
with roots, as they cannot bear sour sodden soil; let the pots be well 
drained. Climbers will soon require cutting that have been growing 
rather naturally, in order that more light may be given to the plants 
below. If the house plants can be kept out of the house for a month 
longer, the creepers, to be beautiful, will require ample waterings. 
R. Fish. 
ORCHID HOUSE. 
Air, give only on bright sunny days, from 10 o’clock till 3. Blocks, 
continue to syringe morning and evening, the first half of the month ; 
the latter end in the mornings only. Baskets may be kept rather drier, 
excepting such as Stanhopeas that are growing; let these be dipped in 
tepid water once a-week, at least, using discretion, according to the state 
they arc in as to being wet or dry. Dendrobiums : many species will now 
have perfected their pseudo-bulbs for the season ; let such be immediately 
removed into a cooler house, and have no water given them. Other kinds 
will require the same treatment as soon as the full growth is attained. 
Growing Plants may still be retained in the warm, moist atmosphere 
of the orchid-house, and be kept moist at the roots. Heat in this 
month may be reduced a few degrees. Sudden changes are always 
dangerous ; by gradually reducing the heat, the plants become inured to 
the change. Insects, search lor diligently, and destroy; every one 
destroyed now will prevent myriads from being bred next year. L-Elia 
autumnalis will be growing rapidly; keep it well supplied with water, 
as, upon the strength it acquires during this month, will depend the 
number of flowers on the spike in October or November. Rest, give to ■ 
all plants that have made their annual growth ; without this they would 1 
continue to grow and never flower. Shade may be much reduced now', j 
except on very bright days during the beginning of the month. Water, | 
continue to give to growing plants till the year’s growth is completed, I 
then withhold it, excepting from a few species with pseudo-bulbs, which, I 
not having that storehouse of food laid up, must have occasional damp- [ 
ings and sprinklings. T. Appleby. I 
PLANT STOVE. 
Air, give abundantly on all favourable occasions. Achimenes going 
out of bloom, place in a cold pit, giving water to induce them to go 
early to rest. Aciiimenes picta, continue to grow on, to flower at 
Christmas. Climbef.s, on the rafters, commence to reduce greatly, by 
pruning off all superfluous shoots, tying the rest in neatly. In pots 
trained on trellises, these would be greatly benefited by being placed out- 
of-doors, in some sheltered nook, for a week or two at the commencement 
of this month ; when set out, lay them on one side on a grass plot, and 
give the leaves on the under side a severe syringing. This would clear 
them of the red spider, at all events. Frames containing stove plants 
must now be covered up every night with double mats; uncover early, 
and lift up the light for a minute or two to let out foul air, and let in 
fresh and sweet: give these plants water only in the morning. Ges- 
nera zebrina: those started early will now be in flower; keep the 
rest growing by keeping up a heat of 72° or 75°, and supply water in a 
tepid state in due proportion. Other kinds of Gesneras and Glox¬ 
inias gone out of bloom place in cool frames, and withhold water, to 
cause them to go gradually to rest; plants of this kind struck in the 
spring will now be in flower; keep them in the stove, and give water. 
Plants, generally, that have bloomed, give less water and heat to. 
Winter-blooming Plants, give every encouragement to, to cause a 
fine bloom. Soils, procure and prepare for use by frequently turning 
them over; keep them clear of weeds at all times. T. Appleby. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
Anemones, plant in rich light soil. Auriculas and Polyanthuses, 
remove towards the end of the month into winter shelter ; take the op¬ 
portunity to cleanse and top-dress slightly. Carnations and Picotees, 
take off layers, and pot them in pairs in four-and-a-half inch pots ; such 
layers as have not rooted, pot, and place in a frame, kept close, till they 
root. Chrysaiwiiemums, give liquid-manure to; place in the green¬ 
house a few that show bloom, to flower early; protect from early frosts, 
should an<- occur. Cinerarias, pot, and advance a stage. Dahlias, 
continue to protect the blooms from sun, rain, and insects; keep them 
well tied in, to prevent the autumnal winds from breaking off the side 
shoots. Fuchsias, in pots, gone out of.bloom, remove out of the green¬ 
house, and jdace in a situation where severe frost will not reach them ; 
under a stage in the greenhouse, or in a cold pit, will do. Iris (bulbous), 
plant latter end of the month, in rich borders or beds. Layers, of Car¬ 
nations, Pansies, and Pinks, take off as soon as rooted and pot. Pinks, 
prepare the bed or beds to plant out layers in ; mix freely the soil with 
well-decomposed littery dung and leaf-inould, plant the pipings or young 
plants out towards the end of the month. Ranunculuses, if not all taken 
up must be done instantly, or the autumn rains will start them into 
growth prematurely; examine roots of, taken up previously, and if 
mouldy lay them in the sun to dry more effectually. Roses cutoff all 
decayed blooms as they occur. Tulip-bed, prepare, by adding dung to 
the soil, if not exhausted, or by making an entire new bed ; see that it is 
well drained, and place two inches of cow-dung over the drainage. 
T. Appleby. 
KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
Angelica, thin out, and earth-stir in the seed-bed, where the plants 
may remain until the spring. Aromatic Pot Herbs, finish gathering. 
Artichokes, break down stems, and keep clear of weeds. Asparagus-- 
beds, weed. Balm, cut, and dry. Beans, keep clear of weeds, and 
seed collect, and dry off well; store them away in the pods. Beet, take 
up as wanted. Borage, earth-stir amongst, and collect seed. Bore¬ 
cole, plant out, and use the hoe freely amongst. Brocoli, plant, 
and keep the earth stirred in fine dry days. Burnet, plant. Cabbages, I 
plant out; keep the seed-beds free from weeds, and earth-stir, lied 
Hutch Cabbages are ready for pickling. Cardoons, earth up well in 
dry weather Carrots, attend to thinning and earth-stirring the Au¬ 
gust sown crops. Cauliflower Plants, pricK out in rich, open, warm 
borders, so as to have a good choice of plants to stand the winter. Ce¬ 
lery, earth-up freely in dry weather; let the earth be well forked-up 
and broken to pieces previously to spading it up to the rows, and plant 
out successional crops which will be found very useful to the cook during 
the winter and spring months. Chervil, sow. Coleworts, plant 
out. Coriander, sow. Corn Salad, sow. Cress, (American), sow 
and plant. Cucumbers, attend to in pits and frames, top and clear 
away all decayed leaves, &c.; strike cuttings of favourite kinds, or sow 
seeds for winter and spring growth. Endive, plant out plentifully; 
tie up, or otherwise cover up to blanch. Fennel, plant and cut down. 
Hoeing, attend to in all cases in dry weather, and be the more attentive 
to this between heavy showers. Hyssop, plant. Jerusalem Arti¬ 
chokes, keep clear of weeds; do not injure the stems; take up roots 
if required for use. Kidney-beans, earth-stir among, and collect seeds ; 
put away dry in pods. Leeks, plant and earth-stir. Lettuces may 
still be sown in warm borders, but attend to those which were sown at 
proper time ; prick out from the seed-beds ; keep them clear from weeds, 
so as to have a good winter supply of sturdy plants; tie up full grown. 
Melons, be sparing with water at this season; give plenty of air to 
ripening fruit; keep up warmth by backing up with linings, &c.; shut 
up early. Mint, still cut and dry. Mushroom Spawn, collect; this 
is often found when breaking up old hotbeds; put it away in close dry 
sheds until wanted. Mushroom-beds, make; this is the best season 
in the whole year for making mushroom-beds in any way, from the 
proper mushroom-house to the common span-roof bed in the open air 
to be covered with straw. Nasturtiums, gather as they become fit 
for use. Onions, press down to promote their bulbing, and take up 
those that are ripe; dry well before storing away for winter; attend 
to the August-sow’n; weed and earth-stir. Potatoes, take up and 
store away, and should be looked over shortly and often, after being 
taken in until all the diseased ones are removed. Parsley, cut down 
and transplant in some warm corner for winter supply. Peas, look 
after birds, and collect seed of, dry them well, and store them away 
in their pods. Pennyroyal, cut and dry. Marjorum, the same. 
Radishes, sow in warm borders. Rhubarb, clear from weeds. Sage 
and Savory may be planted. Savoys, plant and earth-stir. Sea- 
kale-beds, keep clear from weeds. Seeds, gather of all kinds as 
they ripen. Small Salading, sow. Sorrel, plant. Spinach, sow 
in warm border; attend to thinning-out the August-sown crops from 
six to eight inches apart in the rows. Tansy and Tarragon, attend 
to if required. Thyme, plant. Turnips, sow of the best little early kinds ; 
thin and hoe advancing crops. Watercress, plant. Watering, in 
dry wxather, must be particularly attended to previous to planting, or 
pricking out any kind of young plants, or sowing the same. Water well 
both before and after. Attend to earthing-up, earth-stirring, and 
hoeing in general, in dry weather; the rake may be advantageously used 
in many cases after the hoe at this catching season of the year. Many 
good managers only plant Cabbages in one week of the whole year, anil 
that in the first week in September, and from plants sown about the 21st 
of July; the soil to receive them should be made thoroughly rich. 
Others make a good planting at this time, and another in March, which 
will give an excellent supply for the whole year. T. Weaver. 
London: Printed by Harry Wooldridge, Winchester High-street, 
in the Parish of Saint Mary Kalendar; and Published by William 
Somerville Orr, of Church Hill, Walthamstow, in the County of 
Essex, at the Office, No. 2, Amen Corner, in the Parish of Christ 
Church, City of Loudon.—August 25th, 1853. 
