September 15. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
463 
be selected and put by themselves, on their broadsides. 
Before the end of the month all may receive that treat¬ 
ment, to savo them from heavy rains ; and the sooner, 
afterwards, they are placed in their winter quarters, the 
better. Generally speaking, they will want no water 
there from November to March; but of course, though 
it is advisable to have the plants dryish, they should not 
! be allowed to flag. R. Fish. 
THE HYACINTH. 
( Continued from page 445.) 
Culture in Pots. — Soil. —This should be rich and 
not over light. I last year had a fine bloom potted in 
good, sound loam, of rather a strong texture, mixed 
with about one-fourth of horse-dropping gathered from 
the roads in my neighbourhood. I purchase this of an 
old, almost blind, industrious man, who, with praise¬ 
worthy industry, is up early and late collecting it. I 
find this dung very excellent for potting purposes for 
various plants, such as Geraniums, Cinerarias, Chry¬ 
santhemums, aud eveu the finer kinds of Florists’ 
flowers, such as Auriculas aud Polyanthuses. No 
doubt, the sand and debris of the stones used for the 
road are useful ingredients in the compost. If, how¬ 
ever, this article cannot be procured, well-rotted cow- 
dung will be a good substitute, provided the compost 
has a liberal addition of sharp sand added to it. 
Size of Pots. —The kind denominated “Hyacinth 
pots,” which are at least one-third deeper than the 
ordinary ones, are the best for these bulbs, as, also, 
for the Polyanthus Narcissus; but they are not abso¬ 
lutely necessary, because the flowers are formed in the 
bulb the year previously. I use, when one bulb only is 
put in a pot, the size called large 48’s, which are nearly 
live inches diameter at the top, and for two bulbs I use 
the small 32’s, which are six inches in diameter. In 
these sizes I have had very splendid blooms. No doubt, 
three, or even five, bulbs might be planted in pots large 
enough to contain them, with a good effect, where they 
are to bloom in a greenhouse or a conservatory. 
Last year I had some large, ornamental vases filled 
with the following bulbs:—In the centre, three Poly¬ 
anthus Narcissus ; next, five Hyacinths ; then, about a 
dozen yellowy white, and blue Crocuses, aud, lastly, a 
border of Snowdrops. These all flowered well, and 
were very much admired. They stood on the lawn, and 
were protected whenever there was any frost by mats. 
For a large conservatory these vases would have been 
very ornamental. 
Potting. — Whatever kind of pots are used they 
must be well drained. I find an oyster-shell or two 
very useful to cover the holes at the bottom of the pots, 
and I think they afford a considerable amount of nutri¬ 
ment to the plants; over these place a thin layer of 
broken potsherds. Then, upon this drainage place a 
thin covering of very fibrous turf, broken into pieces. 
I have used this with great success in a green state; 
the decaying turf constantly gave out nourishment to 
the plants. Then put a layer of the compost, and press 
it down very firmly, only take care that it is in a proper 
state, neither too wet nor too dry. Keep adding more 
soil, and pressing it down till the pots are full enough 
to receive the bulbs. This pressing the soil so hard 
is to prevent the roots running down too quickly to 
i the bottom of the pot, and thus, as it were, compelling 
I them to draw the nourishment out of the soil as they 
[ descend. This is a very important point, and should 
! be carefully attended to. When the bulb is placed in 
the pot upon this firm bed of soil, the top should be 
about a quarter-of-an inch below the level of the pot- 
rim ; then fill in more soil around it, pressing it also 
firm and close to the bulb. If this is not properly done, 
when the roots begin to push they will lift the bulb out 
of its place, and these roots will be liable to be broken if 
the bulb is carelessly thrust forcibly down to its proper 
position. When this (the rising of the bulb) does 
happen, the bulb should be carefully lifted up, and a 
little soil taken out to make room for the roots, the bulb 
replaced gently, and the soil pressed again firmly around 
it. Some prefer leaving the very point of the bulb just 
out of the soil, but I prefer covering it entirely, about 
the eiglith-of-an-iuch, there is not then so much danger 
of the bulb being lifted out of its place when the first 
roots are forming. The season for potting these bulbs 
is the last week of September, or the first week in 
October, for early blooms; but they may be potted even 
to the end of November, if not forced too hard at first. 
As soon as the whole are potted, a position must be 
sought to place them in till they push forth roots and 
begin to show the buds. A bed, four feet wide, in an 
open place in the garden, will be suitable. If the situa¬ 
tion is dry, the soil may be excavated about four inches 
deep, and a layer of coal-ashes spread over the bottom, 
to keep worms out of the pots. If it is desired to pre¬ 
serve their names, they should be written upon labels of 
wood, painted with white lead, and written upon with a 
black-lead pencil, or, what is better, on zinc labels, with 
prepared ink ; then place the pots containing the bulbs 
on the bed, and cover them over with spent tanner’s 
bark, or coal-ashes, about two inches above the pots 
Here they may remain till they are required, either for 
forcing into flower, or till the spring. 
Take a portion of them into a warm pit, heated by 
some means as hot-water, dung, or tanner’s bark, to 
bring them on into flower early, only let the forcing 
process be gentle, especially for the first three or four 
weeks, when it may be increased five or ten degrees. 
Begin, say with 50°, and then increase it to 55° or 00°, 
with sun heat. 
To get them into flower at Christmas they should be 
placed in heat about the middle of October, so that the 
forcing may be gradual. If forced too quickly, or with 
too much power, the flower-stems will be weak, and the 
colours will be anything but bright. Whereas, if they 
are brought on gradually, the flower-stems will be 
strong, the flowers large, and the colour better. Here 
I may remark, that some sorts of Hyacinths are 
better adapted for either growing in glasses or forcing 
in pots. In most catalogues, such varieties are marked 
with an asterisk (thus *), and such should be ordered 
for this purpose, though for growing in pots, to flow r er 
late in the spring, almost any variety will answer. 
When the bloom is in full perfection the pots should 
be taken into a cool greenhouse, or window, and plenty 
of air given. By that means they will last much longer 
in bloom than if kept in heat. After the blooming is 
over the pots may be placed behind a wall, and duly 
watered to perfect the bulbs. They will not answer 
again for forcing, but may be planted in the borders 
the October following. T. Appleby. 
(To he continued.) 
JOTTINGS BY THE WAY. 
(Continued from page 445.) 
Heaton Park, near Manchester, the seat of the Earl ! 
Wilton.—In this place, though near to the great cotton¬ 
manufacturing town of Manchester, I found a well- 
managed garden. The mansion is placed in a beautiful, j 
well-wooded, and considerably undulated park of large | 
extent. The views from the terrace-walk, in front, 
are extensive and beautiful ; and the woods in the 
distance nearly conceal the disagreeable, long, smoky 
chimneys. 
There is a lofty conservatory near to the mansion, in 
which I noted some well-grown aud profusely-bloomed 
