COUNTRY GENTLEMAN’S COMPANION. 
May 8. 
Cuttings. —As respects tune, March, April, and May 
are the most suitable, and the following are the modes 
most likely to ensure success. Prepare a four-inch pot 
for cuttings by filling it half full with drainage, then a 
little roughish peat and loam, covered with finer of the 
same material, and surmounted with at least half-an- 
inch of fine sand. Set the pot, overhead, in a pail of 
water, for a few minutes, and then take it out and allow 
it to drain for a couple of hours. Put a little fresh 
sand loosely on the top, press it a little, and it is fit fox- 
receiving the cuttings. Before inserting them, however, 
place this prepared pot inside of one a size larger, so 
that the two rims will stand about level, and then fill 
the space between with moss or sand, and have a bell- 
glass of a size suitable to stand between the two rims. 
All is now ready for the cuttings. During the months 
referred to, you will find numberless little shoots, from 
one-and-a-half to two-and-a-half inches in length, all j 
along the main shoots. Slip off the requisite number of , 
these close to the stem, giving each cutting, therefore, 
what is technically called a heel. Dress any film away | 
from such a place; with a sharp knife remove a few of j 
the lower small leaves, and insert them finnly in the 
sand, using a small dibber, like a lady’s bodkin, and | 
filling up every little hole with dry sand before gently j 
watering the cuttings all over. When the tops are 
getting dry place the bell-glass over them. If it is of a 
conical shape, the condensed moisture will trickle down 
in the space between the rims of the two pots, and you ; 
will gain two objects—lessen the necessary attention to j 
watering, and lessen the chances of your cuttings 
damping off. I may add hei-e, however, that though I 
prefer these side-shoots to cutting up longer and more 
succulent ones, I would always choose the little shoots 
that showed fresh growth just commencing at then- 
points. These will answer better than those standing j 
quite still, or those growing freely. If this pot can be 
placed in a mild hotbed, with a bottom-heat of from 5G° 
to 70°, and a top temperature of from 50° to 60°, the 
cuttings may be said to be placed in the most favourable 
position. A little shade, in bright days, a sufficiency of 
moisture, and a little air, by tilting the bell-glass a very 
little at night, will ensure success. I mention these 
minutiae to render success more certain, and because 
the young beginner who thus manages a Genista will 
have less difficulty with more tender things ; but I have 
struck them freely in such a slight hotbed without any 
bell-glass at all; and after the month of April have 
managed them by means of a bell-glass in a common 
greenhouse, giving the cuttings wliat shade they re¬ 
quired by means of a piece of paper, and setting the 
pot behind some pot of a lai'ger size. When the cuttings 
are struck, they should be potted off into small pots, 
kept rather close, and in a moistish atmosphere at first, 
and when growing freely be gradually exposed to more 
air, and be housed again by the end of October. 
General Management. — Soil.— When young, loam, 
leaf-mould, and heath soil, in about equal proportions, 
will suit them well; as the plants get older, the loam 
should preponderate, with rich dressings, and manure 
waterings when the plant is growing, and when in 
bloom. 
Temperature. —This has been already referred to. A 
very slight amount of frost injures them. I had some 
of the hardiest killed outright by some of the first 
frosts last November. 
Watering. —This must be regulated by temperature. 
In winter, in a low temperature, they will want but little ; 
if growing in a heat of 45° to to .50°, they will want a 
liberal supply, with syringings over the foliage in a 
sunny day. When the bloom opens, discontinue the 
syringings, and give a little manure-water at the roots. 
When the flowering is over, and what pruning is neces¬ 
sary done, syringe with clear soot water, and clear 
87 
sulphur water frequently, and as growth is proceeding, 
set the plants in a shady place out-of-doors at first— 
and then in a few weeks in the sun; and during that 
period, frequently lay the plants down and syringe the 
head all over, above and under the foliage, with weak 
soapsuds, clear soot water, and clear water, alter¬ 
nately, in order to prevent their great enemy, red spider, 
securing a lodgment. 
Pruning. —In close, compact kinds, as Attleana, little 
more will be necessary than removing the flower-stems. 
In such kinds as Genista canariensis and Cytisus pro- 
liferus, it will be necessai-y to shorten back the shoots 
a little, so as to keep them bushy. After that they 
should be kept closish, and well syringed, to encourage 
growth, and be exposed to more air gradually before 
turning them out-of-doors. 
Potting. —In old plants this should be done after 
pruning, and when the new growth is proceeding freely. 
If not done then, it should be deferred to the begin¬ 
ning of September; if done much later, the flower spikes 
will suffer, if wanted to bloom early. If well top- 
dressed, and the drainage examined, the plants will do 
in the same pot for several years. 
Position. —Greenhouse from the end or middle of 
October; an open, airy position when in bloom ; closer 
and shaded when cleaned and pruned; more air and 
full light as growth is progressing. A shady place out 
of-doors in June and July, and part of August; a more 
exposed place afterwards, keeping the pots shaded, but 
not the tops. 
As a beautiful accompaniment to these yellow-flower¬ 
ing shrubs, allow me to recommend the graceful, white- 
flowering Cytisus filipes (thread-stemmed), a native of 
Teneriffe, and which requires similar treatment, only 
that a warm part of the greenhouse will not be objected 
to ; a portion of heath soil in the compost will be 
relished, and, when well established, pruning rather freely 
will be necessary, to keep up a succession of long, slender, 
flowering spray shoots. Such a species would be 
interesting as a weeping plant, grafted standard high, 
on any of the Cytisus tribe. 
GRAFTING CAMELLIAS. 
i 
“I have a red Camellia, with a poor flower, but a 
good stock; I should like to graft it. Would you 
instruct me how ? Say what kind would answer best, 
and if it would be proper to use more than one sort. ” 
You may use as many kinds as you have got separate 
branches or twigs upon your plant, but one sort is 
generally pi-eferred, though in a small house several 
kinds on one plant might be more interesting. In doing 
so, it will be as well to choose vai-ieties as nearly equal 
in vigour of growth as possiblo, or the stronger will rob 
the weakei\ This attended to, one sort will graft just 
as well as another. If any difference, perhaps the 
double white, Cluindlerii, Doncklaarii, Ford'd, &c., take 
most readily. I fear, however, that though there is no 
difficulty in doing the grafting part, you are rather past 
the time for being quite sure of success. That success 
is greatly owing to two things. First, having the stock 
a little in advance of the scion; and, secondly, having 
the scion as much in a dormant state as is consistent 
with the healthy action of an evei’greeu greenhouse 
plant. In other words, the buds on the young shoot to 
be used as the scion should be seen and swelling full, 
but they should not be burst or growing. This season 
is late, and you may have no difficulty in procuring scions 
of this description, especially if your Camellias had not 
been much forced ; but if the shoots of last year are 
breaking their buds and growing, I would advise letting 
the grafting alone until next Februai-y or March, which 
may be considered the best months in the year for the 
purpose, though anytime will do that secures the proper 
