COUNTRY GENTLEMAN'S COMPANION. 
May 29. 
153 
mix well, and then add a gallon of stale wine, and as much 
clay as, when well beaten up, will make a thick paint. 
This must he well rubbed into all the chinks and crevices of 
the branches with a stiff paint-brush. It will destroy the 
bug wherever brought into contact with it. The tree must 
be repeatedly examined, and if the insects show signs of 
resuscitation, the operation must be repeated of well brushing 
with the mixture the stem and branches, not omitting to 
examine the main stem to the depth of six inches or so 
under the surface of the soil. I have already observed, that 
if the aphis gets fairly established on the roots of the 
apple-tree it is in vain to attempt its extirpation, and the 
only course left is to root the tree carefully up and burn it, 
to prevent the spread of the pest to other trees, observing, 
as before directed in the case of young plants, to burn 
some litter on the spot where it grew. 
“ There are numerous receipts by almost every author on 
gardening, all of which have been successfully employed as 
palliatives only, for although its numbers may be considerably 
reduced, so much so that its operations may escape notice, 
it rarely happens that the insect is totally exterminated from 
any district in which it may have established itself. If we 
could by any means propagate at will the useful and beau- 
i tiful little insect, the lady-cow (Coccinellu L.), which feeds 
entirely upon the aphides when its larva state, our orchards 
would soon be cleared from the ravages of the blight. I 
examined some apple-trees in my neighbourhood in Novem¬ 
ber last, which were literally swarming with blight, and 
observed quantities of the larva of the lady-cow devouring 
the aphis; and on examining the same tree about a week 
afterwards they were perfectly free from the insect, and its 
devourer had also disappeared. 
“ In conclusion, I would observe that the foregoing remarks 
are not the result of mere empiricism, but I had for my 
guide science, a pilot needed even by the most experienced ; 
and I would sum up in the words of that celebrated and 
scienced horticulturist, Mr. Knight, that ‘ Physiological 
knowledge can alone now direct the gardener to improvement, 
for he possesses all that mere practice is likely to give.’ 
“ I have, &c., 
“ GEO. Me EWIN. 
“ Glen Ewin Nursery, February 8, 1855.” 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
*** We request that no one will write to the departmental writers of 
tiie Cottage Gardener. It gives them unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. AH communications should be addressed “ To the Editor of 
The Cottage Gardener, 2, Amen Corner, Paternoster Row, London .” 
Preserving Vegetables (R. Howell ).—What do you mean by 
“preserving vegetables green?” Do you mean in sugar, or as dried 
specimens ? There is no separate work on either. 
Pine Pit for Vines (Peter Pindar ).—There is no reason why you 
should not substitute Vines for Pines if the pit is large enough. You 
need not remove the hot-water pipes. The three first volumes of Tiie 
Cottage Gardener for about twenty-two shillings. 
Defective Turf (J. {?.).—Sow the Grass-seed at once. You may 
raise the turf, so as to level it where sunk, in the autumn. 
Crystal Palace Horticultural Snow (A Royal Forester ).—You 
may obtain a schedule of prizes by applying to “ G. Grove, Esq., Secre¬ 
tary, Crystal Palace, Sydenham.” 
Propagating Cinerarias ( M . M .). —New varieties are obtained from 
seed; old varieties are multiplied by offsets. 
CALENDAR FOR JUNE. 
ORCHID HOUSE. 
Aerides, Saccolabiums, Vandas, and other allied Indian plants, 
will now be growing freely, and will require abundance of water both at 
the roots and over the tops. Any on blocks that are growing freely 
should have some moss tied round the block to retain moisture a longer 
time. Air should now be liberally given almost every day, unless cold, 
wet days should intervene. The air openings should be so constructed as 
not to allow a rush of cold wind over the tops of the plants. Baskets : 
the plants in them will be making tbeir new growths, and will require to 
be dipped in tepid water at least once a week, or even oftener in very hot 
weather. Blocks : syringe twice a day, in the morning by seven o’clock, 
and in the afternoon about four. Catesetums, Cyrtopodiums, 
Cynoches, and their like, give plenty of water at the root, taking care 
that none lodges amongst the young leaves for any length of time. 
Dendrobiums: many of this fine family will, towards the end of the | 
month, have finished their growth. They should then be placed in a 
cooler house, and less water given to them. Heat : the natural heat of 
the atmosphere out-of-doors renders less fire necessary. During the day, 
unless in cold, wet weather, none will be needed, a little every night will 
yet be useful, especially in the Indian-house. Insects will breed rapidly 
during this warm season; every means must be resorted to to keep them 
under. Moisture : the air of the house should be kept full of moisture 
during this month. Many of the roots will be dangling in the air, 
sucking up, as it were, the moisture in it. Moss on the outside of the 
pots, and on the leaves, will accumulate greatly with the heat and the 
moisture; the pots must be washed, and the leaves sponged frequently, 
to open the breathing pores of the latter. Offsets on the stems of Den¬ 
drobiums should be all taken off, to encourage growth from the bottom ; 
they may be made plants of if required. Plants in flower will last 
much longer if removed into a cooler house. Syringe : this instrument 
will, during the month, be in constant requisition. In using it, let the 
water from it fall gently upon the plants, imitating a gentle shower of 
rain. Shade must be applied during bright burning sunshine. Water, 
apply liberally to all growing plants, but be sure and use soft or rain 
water. A slate tank is the best thing to contain it; iron vessels should 
by all means be avoided. Weeds, destroy constantly; but such plants 
as Ferns, Heaths, except creeping species, that come up amongst the 
rough peat, may be allowed to grow, they will shade the roots, and serve 
as indicator, when they flag, to show that the compost is dry and requires 
water. _ T. Appleby. 
PLANT STOVE. 
Achimenes: those early potted will now be in flower; supply them 
freely with water; repot the last batch to flower late. A. pivta put thickly 
into wide, shallow pans, and grow on to flower at Christmas. Amaryllis, 
going out of bloom, and their bulbs ripening, place in a cold frame, and 
give no water to induce them to rest. Air, give liberally all day, and in 
hot, close nights leave a little on. Aphelandra aurantiaca, grow on 
in a hot pit to bloom in winter. Baskets, where used, keep moist by 
dipping and syringing frequently. Bark-beds, renew, if the heat de¬ 
clines. Cuttings, put in if required; pot off such as have struck root. 
Climbers, on the rafters, train, and keep within bounds. In pots, 
train round the trellisses ; attend to them constantly, or they will soon get 
out of order. Francisceas done flowering, place in a cold frame to rest. 
Gardenias, treat iri a similar way. Gesneras, repot young plants, put 
in cuttings of. Gloxinias, the same; every leaf will make plants if 
put in as cuttings. Heat, keep under, no fire heat is required now. 
Insects of all kinds, destroy diligently, especially the Red Spider and 
Mealy Bug. Ixoras, the large specimens will now be in flower; keep 
them moist at the root, but refrain from syringing over the bloom ; 
young plants repot, and tie out young specimens. Moisture in the 
air, keep up by flooding the walks daily. Plants in flower, keep 
cool, and shade them, this will prolong the bloom. Potting, do when¬ 
ever it is necessary. Seeds of many stove plants may yet be sown ; 
transplant seedlings when just out of the seed-leaf. Syringe, use daily. 
Water, apply liberally, but not so as to sodden the soil. Top-dress 
the whole stock of plants during the month, it refreshes and gives them a 
neat, clean appearance ; wash the pots if mossy. Weeds, constantly 
eradicate. Worms in pots, destroy with lime water. T. Appleby. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
Auriculas and Polyanthuses, place on ashes behind a north wall, 
in the shade; keep clear of weeds, and constantly supplied with water. 
Seedlings prick out in shallow pans or boxes. Carnations and Picotees, 
place on the stage; put stakes to, and waterfreely. Chrysanthemums, 
pot; plant out some old plants to layer and form dwarf plants. Dahlias, 
finish planting; put stakes to early ; put in cuttings of new or scarce 
kinds. Fuchsias, pot off cuttings ; train specimens, and water occa¬ 
sionally with liquid-manure. Sow seed of Hollyhock ; put stakes to; 
prick out seedlings. Hyacinths out of bloom, take up and store. 
Insects, destroy. Pansies, water freely in dry weather ; put in cuttings 
of ; sow seed, and transplant; layer long, straggling shoots ; shade from 
hot sun. Pinks, tie to sticks; place Indian-rubber rings round thebuds 
when more than half grown ; transplant seedlings; put in pipings. 
Ranunculuses, keep very moist; place shades over them as the blooms 
expand. Roses, look to the buds, and destroy by crushing the worm in 
the bud. Put such as are in pots, and have done blooming, in a cold pit, 
or in the open air in a shady place. Tulips, cut off all seed-vessels, and 
take up the bulbs as soon as the leaves decay. Verbenas, in the border, 
shade from sun ; peg down the long branches in pots ; tie out, keep 
moist, and shade. Water, give to all in pots freely. T. Appleby. 
FLOWER-GARDEN. 
Anemones, take up as leaves wither; dry and store. Annuals (Hardy 
and some Tender), plant out to remain, in showery weather best; sow for 
late crops; some (hardy) may be sown, b. Auriculas, continue 
shading ; plant offsets ; prick out seedlings. Baskets, or clumps, form 
of greenhouse plants. Beds, attend diligently to recent planted ; water 
and stir them in dry weather. Biennials and Perennials, sow, if 
omitted, b. Box edgings clip. Bulbous Roots (Tulips, Jonquils, 
&c.), not florists’ flowers, remove offsets from ; dry and store; may trans¬ 
plant some, or keep until autumn; autumn-flowering, as Colchicums, 
&c., take up as leaves decay, separate offsets, and replant, or not until 
end of July. Carnations in bloom, attend; aid the bud-pod to split 
with a pair of narrow sharp-pointed scissors; bandage buds, to prevent 
bursting, with Indian-rubber rings, or tape; water every second day; 
tie to supporters, &c.; prick out seedlings; make layers. Chrysan¬ 
themums, plant out to layer next month. Cyclamens, transplant, 
j Dahlias, finish planting out, b. Dress the borders assiduously; 
neatness now stamps a gardener’s character. Fibrous-rooted Peren¬ 
nials, propagate by cuttings; shade and water. Flowering Plants, 
generally, require training and support. Grass, mow, roll, and trim 
edges. Gravel, weed, sweep, and roll. Hedges, clip, e. Leaves 
and stems decaying, remove as they appear. Liuuid Manure, apply 
occasionally to all choice flowers. Mignonette, sow for late bloom, b. 
Mimuluses, plant out. Pceonies (Chinese), water freely with liquid 
