182 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
June 12. 
I syringed in a similar manner with clean water, and 
J then placed in their growing quarters. Very likely a 
I repetition of the dose may be needed, and this should 
; be done before there is much signs of growth, as if the 
foliage was tender there would be more necessity to be 
careful in using the tobacco-water, and also the 
smokings in a more mild, reduced shape. If water is 
| made from tobacco-paper, or the tobacco-water is 
purchased at once, or the tobacco purchased is extra 
strong, care should be taken not to overdose the plants. 
It is safer to repeat the operation. My neighbour, Mr. 
Eraser, of Luton Hoo, who has a splendid lot of Azaleas, 
told me he once was troubled with the Thrip, and found 
j nothing so effectual as syringing with tobacco-water, by 
having the head of the plant held leaning downwards 
i over a tub, so as to catch the fluid that ran off the 
leaves. 
Pruning. —If the shoots are yet alive there will be 
little pruning necessary, and even that may be deferred 
until the plants are encouraged to grow in a genial 
temperature. In established plants little pruning will 
bo needful, farther than merely stopping the points of 
i strong shoots that threaten to rob the others. The 
great thing is to get every young shoot of equal strength, 
if possible, and then, if these are suitably grown and 
matured, each of these shoots will be terminated with 
a flowering-bud. If a number of shoots are allowed to 
steal a march on the others, they will prevent many 
from starting altogether ; and then, if these robbers are 
not too luxuriant to bloom at all, the surface of the 
plant, as respects bloom, will be jagged and uneven. 
It is necessary to stop these extra strong shoots early, 
say when one-inch in length, so that the two or three 
shoots you thus obtain, instead of one, may have time 
to mature and ripen the flower-buds before the autumn. 
When a plant is in a very straggling, unhealthy condition, 
it may be advisable to cut it close in, and induce it to 
break, if possible, by placing it in a high, moist 
temperature; but unless, when the question is either an 
improved appearance, or consigning to the rubbish- 
heap, it is not advisable to do much in the pruning 
way, but rather to confine it to the above pinching 
operation. 
Potting. —This I prefer doing when the plant is 
beginning to grow freely, after the flowers and withered 
leaves, &c., have been removed. In general cases, it is 
advisable not to give large shifts. The best heath soil 
j should be used, choosing that which is most fibry, and 
mingling with it a good proportion of silver-sand, a 
j little charcoal in small pieces, and a few bits of free- 
j stone, or broken crocks. It will not be possible, in the 
i case of a healthy plant, to remove much of the old ball, 
j but the sides should be gently broken with the fingers, or 
a small, pointed stick, so as to break the regular outline 
mark of the pot, and disentangle the points of the root- 
1 fibres, so that they may enter freely into the new 
j compost. I have performed this operation through out the 
summer, and also in the autumn ; but when done late, 
the flowering often suffers the following year. In the 
case of large, established plants, repotting may be 
deferred for years, moving away a little of the surface, 
and replacing with a fresh coat of an inch or so of 
compost, after being assured that the drainage is all right. 
Then, using weak manure - water when the plants 
are growing, and again when about to expand their 
bloom-buds, will keep them in a healthy condition for a 
long time. 
Temperature and Position. —As soon as the plants 
are denuded of their flowers they should be well 
syringed, and kept closer and warmer than usual, but 
the warmth should not be much increased for a week or 
a fortnight after the flowering is over, that the plants 
may have a little time to recruit their strength, as it 
were. Any place, then, will be suitable, where a moist 
temperature of from 55° to 70° can be maintained, and 
a slight shade in very bright weather secured. Nothing 
answers better than the floor or stage of a Vinery, 
where the Vines are chiefly confined to the rafters. 
Care, however, should be taken that the plants are free 
from Thrip before placing them in such structures. Of 
course, the same conveniences may be secured in pits 
and other houses. If there is nothing but a greenhouse, 
the plants should be placed at one end, and little air 
given there, while abundance of air is given at the other 
end, so as to suit Geraniums and liard-wooded plants in 
bloom, &c. Where there is only one house, it would be 
vain to expect the plants to bloom early. 
When the flowering takes place early in the season, 
and there is the opportunity of forcing the plant into 
early growth, and then maturing that growth, the plants 
will be easily forced into bloom in the beginning of 
the year, and will obtain a tendency to bloom early 
naturally. 
The treatment as to position of the plant will greatly 
depend upon the time it blooms, and the means of per¬ 
fecting the growth of the current year’s wood. A little 
shade in bright sunshine, a highish temperature, and a 
moist atmosphere, with a free use of the syringe, and 
weak manure-water at the roots, made from cool instead 
of hot manures, will greatly promote and accelerate 
the growing process. As the mass of young shoots be¬ 
come from one to two inches in length, more air and 
more light should be gradually given to counteract mere 
extension, and to consolidate the young shoots, so as to 
insure the formation of the flower-buds,— technically, 
“ the knotting for bloom.” Thus treated early, the plants 
may stand out-of-doors in August; late ones in Sep¬ 
tember, and later still in the latter part of September, 
and the first fortnight of October. The plants, if 
gradually inured to it, will take no harm from sunshine 
if the pots and roots are protected. If the plants are 
kept in-doors they will require all the sun and air 
it is possible to give tbem after July and the first 
part of August. If not forced during winter, any place 
with an average temperature of 40° will keep them well; 
and the less stimulus they receive before it is desirable 
to start them into bloom, the better the plants will 
do. The above temperature, and a few degrees lower, 
they will bear without injury; in fact, as has already 
been shown, many are likely to be hardy. The plants 
will lose many of their leaves, so as to become somewhat 
semi-deciduous; but this need occasion no alarm, as 
there will be plenty of young foliage with the flowers; 
and these flowers, if the buds were all right, would have 
next to killed the old foliage by their shade, at any rate. 
I mention this, because last winter I was asked what 
to do to recover a lot of plants which needed no recovery. 
They were merely taking a comfortable rest; throwing 
off their redundant drapery, and, as the spring proved, 
could not well have been in a better condition. 
During the rest period little water will be needed at the 
roots, and that little should not be over cold, nor over j 
i warm, but a few degrees above the average atmospheric j 
temperature, and always given, if really necessary at | 
that period, during the forenoon. A slight sprinkle over { 
the foliage in a fine day will be better than keeping ! 
the roots in a saturated state. When it is determined | 
to start the plants, free waterings will be necessary, j 
and the water should be little below (50®. 
THRIP IN VINERIES FROM AZALEA PLANTS. 
“I perceived a few jumping little insects on my Vine 
leaves; they seem to leave marks on the leaf as if they 
were scalded—a shining appearance. What are they ? 
i and how can I get rid of them ? I observe the same 
! marks on Azaleas introduced into the house to be for¬ 
warded.” There can be little question as to the insects, 
