184 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
June 12. 
grow it in, I confidently recommend it as one of the 
finest stove-creepers we have; and in order that they 
may succeed in cultivating it, I will describe the way 
that I have grown and bloomed it myself. 
Description. —It is a stove evergreen twiner, with 
leaves three aud five parted, and rather small compared 
with many others of the genus. The flowers are pro¬ 
duced both at the axils of the leaves and at the ends of 
the shoots beyond the leaves, in corymbs or bunches. 
The number of flowers on each corymb varies from three 
to ten or twelve, according to the strength of the plant. 
| They last three or four days, and open in succession; so 
that the flowering season is extended to a month or six 
weeks, or even longer. The season of blooming is 
j September and October.* 1 The colour of the flowers is 
I bright crimson, and each flower is nearly two inches 
j diameter. The buds also are very ornamental; they 
are roundish oval, black, and shining,—looking like a 
bunch of fruit before the flowers expand. Flowering so 
late in the season, when the bloom of most other 
creepers is over, renders it the more valuable as an 
ornament to the rafters of the stove. 
Position. —This fine twiner does not bloom well in 
pots, therefore it should always be planted out in a bed 
j of earth in the stove. The corner of a bark or leaf-pit 
is an excellent place for it. The corner might either be 
walled off from the tan-bed in a triangular form, or in a 
square two feet across. Whichever form is adopted, the 
bricks forming the sides next the tan or leaves should be 
built in pigeon-holes, to allow the heat to enter the soil, 
aud to allow the roots to expand themselves amongst 
the tan or the leaves, which greatly encourages the 
growth of the plant. 
This position, however, is not absolutely necessary, 
though bottom-heat does assist its growth and bloom. 
The plant I had under my care was planted in a small 
square pit, close to the hot-water pipes, where it did very 
well. The original plant at Mr. Horsfall’s was planted 
out in the inside border of the stove, the soil of which 
was partially heated by the flue (hot-water was unknown 
then). Let any one wishing to grow this fine plant, 
then, plant it in the warmest position the stove 
contains. 
Soil. —The following compost will suit it:—Two 
parts loam, two parts peat or turfy heath-mould, one 
part decayed leaves, and a half-part of rotten hotbed 
dung. Mix well together without sifting, and throw in 
amongst it a portion of broken pots, and a free addition 
of rough sand to keep it open. Place under the soil 
three or four inches of drainage, which may be broken 
pots, or pieces of brick or sandstone, whichever may be 
convenient. In such a compost it will thrive for many 
i years. 
Watering. —When growing freely, plenty of water 
should be given; and when there is a fear that the 
enriching qualities of the soil is exhausted, then an 
occasional watering of liquid-manure will be useful. 
After the bloom is over, during winter the soil should 
be allowed to become partially dry, to give a degree of 
1 rest to the plant. The heat in summer should be from 
70° to 85°, and in winter, from 60° to 65°. 
Training and Pruning. — Climbers with twining 
! shoots are somewhat difficult to train in any other way 
j than twisting their yearly shoots round any support that 
: comes in their way. In fact, if no such support offers 
itself, the shoots clasp round each other, and when they 
become old are frequently strangled; but by constant 
attention they may be tied out, and spread over any 
extent of roof. This Ipomaa more especially requires 
this attention, or its blossoms will, in a great measure, 
be smothered amongst the foliage. The shoots should 
be thinned by cutting away the most superfluous, or 
\ such as may not show flowers. When the blooming 
season is over, then a more severe pruning should take 
place, and only the strongest branches left. This 
pruning is, indeed, necessary for all stove climbers, to 
keep them tidy and within bounds. 
Insects. —This creeper is not much subject to the 
attacks of these disfigurers; but the red spider, where 
syringing is neglected, will sometimes attack the young 
leaves. Apply sulphur to the flues or pipes, and syringe 
the leaves freely. The mealy bug will also feed upon it, 
if on any other plants in the house. The best de¬ 
structive is constantly destroying this bug with a stiffish 
brush; and if the expense is not considered, wash them 
with spirits of wine, which is instant death to them. 
Propagation. —It may be struck by cuttings, but 
they are weak and difficult to root; hence, nurserymen 
propagate it by grafting upon the Ipomwa insignis, and 
that is readily increased by cuttings. This grafting is 
done by making a cleft in the tuber, and slipping in a 
ripened scion, claying it over in the usual way, aud 
plunging in a pot in a hotbed. Cuttings are struck by 
taking off young, stubby shoots, with a ripened heel to 
each, inserting them in a pot filled with the compost, and 
a layer of sand on the surface, covered with a bell-glass, 
and plunged in a brisk heat of 80°. Let the cultivator 
try this method, and if he succeeds in rooting half of 
the cuttings, he may consider his success a feather of 
honour in his cap. T. Appleby. 
The Vinegar Plant. —At this season of the year, 
when salads are consumed to a great extent, it may be 
of advantage to your readers to know how to make 
vinegar with the Vinegar Plant. It is a well-known 
fact that much of the vinegar which is sold in the 
shops is either malt vinegar reduced with water, and 
strengthened with sulphuric acid, or pyroligneous acid 
diluted, or acetic acid also diluted, neither of which are 
Very acceptable. Under these circumstances, it is a 
comfort to know that one can make their own vinegar, 
and know what is in it. Take one gallon of water, 
half-a-pound of sugar, half-a-pound of treacle, aud boil 
them together for twenty minutes; when cool add a- 
quarter-of-an ounce of German yeast, put the whole 
into ajar, and lay the plant on the surface of the liquor. 
Cover the jar with paper, keeping it in a warm place, 
aud it will produce very good and wholesome vinegar 
in about six weeks.—C. P., Kensington. 
SUMMER POSITION FOR CAMELLIAS. 
“ Mx plants have finished blooming; shall I keep them 
in the greenhouse during the most of summer, or place 
them in a forcing-house, or stove-house for plants, tStc.?” 
If kept in a greenhouse, try and treat them to a place for 
themselves, where they can be kept closer, moister, and 
warmer, as recommended for Azaleas. There they will 
grow and set their buds nicely; but you must not 
expect early bloom. In other words, instead of bloom 
in December and onwards, you must be satisfied with it 
in February, March, aud onwards. When growing, there 
is not a forcing-house, or stove plant house, but will 
suit the Camellia; but the plants subjected to such an 
increase of temperature should stand at a considerable 
distance from the glass, or be shaded a little from the 
fierceness of the sun’s rays. For this purpose, the 
Camellias rejoice in a house where Vines are trained 
some lour feet or so apart. When the young shoots 
have elongated sufficiently to show a prominent bud 
