August 28. 
COUNTRY GENTLEMAN’S COMPANION. 
307 
Rosa Gallica, or French Roses.— Prune moderate. 
Propagate by budding and layers in July and August. 
Graft in March. 
Hybrid China Roses. —Prune very moderate—shorten 
the strongest branches and cut the smaller at intervals. 
Propagate by budding and layers in July and August, and 
by cuttings from September till November. Graft in March. 
Hybrid Bourbon Roses. —Prune moderate. Propagate 
by budding and layers in July and August, and by cuttings 
from September till November. Graft in March. 
Austrian Briars. —This variety requires different pruning 
from most other Roses : it requires nothing but to thin out 
the old wood, leaving the young wood in full length, as the 
bloom is produced on the young shoots. Propagate by 
budding and layers in July and August. 
Rosa Berberifolia. —This Rose is but little cultivated, 
being so difficult to manage. It will do best either budded 
i or grafted on the small briar. 
Banksian Roses.—As this Rose blooms on the wood of 
j the previous year’s growth, it is proper to prune it as soon 
as the blooming season is over, and it will make wood that 
will bloom well the following year. Propagate by cuttings 
in May and September. This Rose requires a wall, and 
must be on its own roots. 
Hardy Climbing Roses. —This class of Roses require but 
little pruning in winter ; it is only necessary to thin such old 
wood as is not wanted. This class of Roses are best 
pruned as soon as their blooming season is over, and by 
that system will furnish good wood to bloom the following 
season. 
The following classes of Roses consist of perpetual 
blooming kinds, amongst which the most splendid varieties 
are found. Their blooming season is from June to November. 
Damask Perpetual Roses. —Prune moderate. Propagate 
by budding and layers in July. Graft in March. 
Hybrid Perpetual Roses. —Prune very close. Propagate 
by budding from June till September, and by layers in July 
and August. Graft in March. 
Isle de Bourbon Roses. —This class of Roses in most 
cases require close pruning; vigorous growing kinds, prune 
moderate. Propagate by budding, layers, and cuttings, from 
June till November. Graft in March. 
Tea-scented and China Roses. — This class of Roses 
require but little pruning more than to thin out old wood to 
cause young shoots to grow. Propagate by budding, layers, 
and cuttings, from June till September. Tender. 
Noisette Roses. —In pruning this Rose it is only 
necessary to shorten the shoots moderately. Propagate by 
budding, layers, and cuttings, from June till September. ! 
Graft in March. 
Macartney Roses. —This Rose being of short growth 
and shrubby habit needs but very little pruning : thin the 
old wood out if too thick. Propagate by budding and 
layers from June till September. 
A few words on the small briar that is not considered of 
much use for the cultivation of Roses. It is useful and 
suited to such sorts as are spotted or stripgd. This kind of 
briar being of weak habit will cause the spotted Roses to 
come more perfect and distinct. It is suitable to sorts that 
j are of delicate growth." 
i .... 
I —T- 
QUERIES AND ANSWERS. 
GARDENING. 
EXPORTS FOR WEST CANADA. 
“ Is it desirable to take steel digging forks, or any sorts 
of garden-seed, vegetables, or flowers, Dahlia-roots, Fuchsia- 
cuttings, &c., there?—W.” 
[A selection of British made forks and other tools for 
farming and gardening would be very useful in Canada, 
but you can buy most seeds as cheap there as you would in 
London. If you have any particular good kind of vegetable 
or fancy flower-seeds in hand, you will find them useful for 
exchanging with neighbours out there ; but we would not 
advise you to buy seeds purposely to take out with you.] 
j ■ 
HEIGHT ATTAINED BY BERBERIS AQUTFOLIUM. 
“To what height will the evergreen Berberis (mentioned 
by Mr. Beaton, in The Cottage Gardener) grow?”—(To 
fifteen feet high in twenty years, if you like to encourage it.) 
“ I am about putting up a fencing all along my garden- 
walks, because my juvenile gardeners give me so much 
trouble, in running over the beds; and it occurs to me, after 
reading the article mentioned, that the Berberis would 
answer the purpose, would be better-looking, less expen¬ 
sive, and occasion less trouble. Also, what is the proper 
time to plant bulbs of Amaryllis belladonna in the open 
borders? and when would it flower there? — A Cockney 
Amateur." 
[The beginning of June is the right time to plant dry 
bulbs of the Belladonna , if you are to have them from an 
out-door bed or border in this country. If they are in pots, 
j you may plant them out any week in the year ; or if you get 
j them from the south of Europe, Madeira, or the Cape, you 
must plant them as soon as they come. October and 
November are the only two months in which they flower 
with us. 
Before the Berberis would grow so much as to prevent 
the “juvenile gardeners ” from running on to the borders, 
the said gardeners would be in the prime of life. From an 
; experience of thirty years in this matter, we can assert, with 
truth and confidence, that no gardeners are move easily i 
taught to run straight forwards, or round a circle, than such 
juveniles; but if you make sharp points and sudden turns 
in beds and walks, others besides juvenile gardeners will be 
led into such scrapes. But certain little marks on a 
i flower-border are just as pretty as the flowers themselves; 
are they, or are they not ? Pray do not fence your borders 
; as you propose; rather teach the names of the flowers, and 
impress on the young people the hurt which trampling on 
! the flowers causes them ; and they will soon learn to avoid 
them. The height of the Berbery, when used instead of 
turf, must not exceed eight or nine inches. It can be kept 
down under six inches for ten years; and as the outside 
leaves rest on the walk on one side, and on the border on 
the other side, the apparent height of the land is only just 
one-half of the actual height; of that we are quite certain, 
and also of the fact that at the end of ten years the edging 
may look as well and be as low as any one chooses.] 
BUDDING ROSES. 
“ Will you be kind enough to inform me the best way to 
bud Roses, as I have some Roses that I want to bud ; and 
what kind of a. knife it wants ? Will a common penknife do? 
Also, the best way and time to set Sweelbriar. — A Sub¬ 
scriber." 
[It is a bad policy to begin to learn a thing—war, for in¬ 
stance—by experimenting on the thing itself. You will 
spoil your Rose stocks, destroy a great number of most va¬ 
luable buds, and prick and fester your fingers, right and left. 
Why, in the name of the Queen of Bourbons, did you not 
begin to practice budding two months ago, on laurels, plums, 
currants, or any bushes along the road-side, till your hand 
and eye, and all your fingers were familiar with every move, 
j —then, ancl not till then, would be the time to bud Roses, 
which are the easiest things in the world to bud when one 
knows how; and, as budding will be done for a full month 
yet, take our advice and learn yourself how. Make a down 
cut in smooth, young bark, one inch long and no deeper than 
the bark; then make a cross-cut half-an-inch long, at 
the top of the down-cut, and the two cuts will form the 
letter T ; then your penknife, or any knife, will raise the 
: bark a little on each side of the down-cut, and this opening 
| is then ready to receive a bud. To take out a bud and pre¬ 
pare it for inserting in the new cut requires practice. You 
can no more do it properly at first, than you could write a 
letter the day you began the pot-hooks; but you will soon 
learn. About three-quarters of an inch is a good length for 
j a Rose-bud and shield. Some people make them longer, and 
! others make them shorter; but everybody has the bud in 
the middle of the piece of bark which goes with the bud. 
1 At first, you may have the bark as long as two inches, then 
I dress it off below the bud to a point,—this point is first put 
