THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
September 25. 
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planting others? in their places. A few bulbs scattered 
amongst the other things will look cheerful in early 
spring. Other work necessary here will partake much 
of the character of ordinary flower-gardening. 
Flower-gardening. — If all the propagating and 
planting-out mentioned last month were done then, 
there will be little wanted that way just now, except 
that shrubby Calceolaria cuttings ought to bo put in now 
in quantity. Small slips, about three inches long, 
slipped off the sides of a plant, and a leaf or two at 
bottom removed, may be put into large, wide-mouthed 
pans, or boxes, and then placed in any shady situation 
out of the reach of frost. They speedily root, and any 
position not too dry will do for them during the winter. 
Rooted cuttings of Geraniums, which were put in the 
ground last month, will now have to be taken up by the 
beginning of this, and planted thickly in pots or pans 
to stand the winter; a few of the best may be in single 
pots, if thought advisable; but the great thing is to find 
room for such plants; but these are very accommodat¬ 
ing, as a dry atmosphere will preserve them with only a 
limited amount of light, while a damp one will suit Cal- 
ceolorias best. Verbenas, Petunias, Heliotropes, and seve¬ 
ral other things like the same treatment as Geraniums. 
In the open ground, the long, damp nights will 
tend to reduce the gaiety of flowers, even if frost does 
not appear, which it doubtless will towards the end. 
Whenever it does, and mars the appearance of the 
tender things, then it would be as well to remove them 
at once, and clean and dig the borders, i.e., supposing 
there be nothing else worth retaining. But the late 
Asters, Crysanthemums, and other flowers, often do well 
until a very late period; Dahlias are a general index to 
the delicate kinds, for whenever the Dahlia is cut off, 
other plants, such as Geraniums, Petunias, Heliotropes, 
&c., are no longer of much service, while the Cuphca 
strigillosa will continue to flower until very late, its pen¬ 
dant blossoms resisting both moisture and frost. Plant 
out bulbs of Tulips, Hyacinths, Crocuses, &c.; and any 
herbaceous plant that was not planted out last month. 
Mow the lawn as long as required, and if worm casts 
disfigure it a good application of lime-water will dispel 
them for a time. Clean the wallcs, and, when necessary, 
fresh gravel them ; but this is not advisable where deci¬ 
duous trees overhang them until the leaves be all off 
the latter, and then the thorough autumnal clearing up 
may take place. In the mean time, much may be done 
to keep the whole in order, and many jobs may be 
forwarded now as well as later. It is a good time to 
plant Evergreens and all shrubs, but at the same time, 
do not allow such works to derange the general appear¬ 
ance of things any more than can bo avoided. 
J. Robson. 
ALLOTMENT FARMING.— October. 
This should be a busy month in the allotment, clearing 
the ground of the refuse crops for the pigs, and of all 
autumnal seed weeds, and preparing the vacant ground by 
dunging for present, and ridging for future, cropping. The 
hoe should be kept frequently employed between rows of 
young Cabbages, Coleworts, Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, 
Brocoli, Spinach, &c., and to hand-weed tire beds of young 
Winter Onions, Carrots, Lettuces, &c. The Cabbage Plants 
of the August sowing should now bo pricked out into nur¬ 
sery beds, and some of the strongest planted out finally for 
an early crop; the others to stand over the winter, and planted 
out in the spring. 
Carrots. —The main crop may now be taken up, either in 
part or the whole, and the tops cut off and given to the cow, 
pigs, or horse, and the roots packed in dry sand, in alternate 
layers, under cover, ready for use in winter. It is particu¬ 
larly necessary that the crops of all roots should bo taken 
up with the greatest care, as rottenness, when it is owing to 
auy external cause, always commences at any cut or bruised 
portion of the surface. It, therefore, becomes of import¬ 
ance that the surface of the roots should be cut or bruised 
as little as possible. The root fibres should not he cut off 
at all, and the leaves should be cut off as far from the crown 
of the root, as that they may fall separated from one 
another. 
Parsnips not being so liable to the attacks of grubs as 
the Carrots, should be allowed to remain in the ground, and 
dug up as wanted, until a severe frost sets in, when a supply 
to last for a few weeks should be taken up and stored like 
Carrots. 
Cauliflower Plants of the August sowing should be 
transplanted, three or four inches apart, into some sheltered 
situation, on the south side of a wall, hedge, or fence, to be 
I protected by hand-glasses, or into a frame. We have potted 
’ them singly into 00-sized pots, and protected them in a cold 
■ frame, and in a greenhouse during the winter, and being 
( turned out into the open ground in March, witli a large ball 
! of roots to each, without suffering the least check, the pro- 
* duce was most satisfactory. The August sown Lettuces 
i may be treated in a similar manner. 
Continue to take up Potatoes in favourable weather. 
! Those intended for seed should be dug up before they are 
thoroughly ripe, and exposed for a few days to sun and air 
to green them; the practice is generally supposed to in- 
1 crease the health and productiveness of the succeeding 
! crop. 
: Asparagus-beds should receive their winter dressing by 
cutting down and clearing away the stalks of the plants, 
covering the bed with a coat of rotten dung, and then with 
two or three inches thick of the soil from the alleys. 
To protect the heads of Cauliflowers from frost, it is advi¬ 
sable to take them up in time, and to plant them in any 
light soil, in a dry shed or cellar, until they are wanted for 
use. We have frequently seen whole plantations of Brocoli, 
Brussels Sprouts, &c., and large-headed Cabbages, destroyed 
by the severe frosts of winter. To obviate the danger, it is 
necessary to take them up towards the end of the month, 
j and to lay them in by the heels, closely packed in rows, with 
their heads to the north, in any sheltered corner of the 
garden. By taking them up at this time their luxuriant 
growth is checked, fresh spongioles, or roots, are formed, by 
which they are the better enabled to withstand the severity 
of winter, the ground is set at liberty for other crops, or to 
i be ridged up and exposed to the ameliorating influence of 
the winter frosts. 
All late Apples and Pears should be gathered before they 
are touched by frosts, which would both injure their flavour 
i and prevent them keeping so long ns they otherwise would do. 
The Flower-garden plot should now receive some atten¬ 
tion by cutting down and clearing away flower-stalks, hoeing 
and raking the beds and borders, weeding walks, Ac., that 
the whole should appear neat and orderly during the winter. 
Any improvements or additions that the experience of the 
past season may suggest should be carried into execution. 
| Fruit-trees , and all deciduous trees , can now be moved with 
safety. The late-flowering Phloxes, and the varieties of the 
beautiful Chinese Chrysanthemums , will now look cheerful 
and very ornamental when tied up so as to show their flowers 
to advantage. Dahlias, as soon as the frost has blackened 
their leaves, should be taken up, and the stems cut off within 
six or eight inches of the tubers, and put away in any cool, 
dry place where they will be free from frost. Polyanthuses, 
if they have grown into large patches, should be parted and 
reset without delay. Auriculas should be placed where they 
are to winter, if protected by a frame or handlight, with 
bricks placed at each corner, raising them from the ground, 
to allow at all times a free circulation of air amongst the 
j pots. They are often sheltered by a board hinged to a wall. 
! Tulips. —The main bed should be planted about the middle 
of the month, taking advantage of fine weather when the 
ground is dry. Carnations. —Keep the potted layers in acloso 
frame until they make fresh roots, and avoid wetting the 
leaves, to prevent the spot appealing on them. 
Winter Vetches, Winter Beans, and Wheat may he sown 
this month ; the first after a grain crop ; the second after a 
grain or green crop ; and the third after a green crop. For 
the Vetches, the ground should be dug deeply, and manured, 
if not already very rich, and the seed drilled at the rate of 
three bushels per acre, in rows six inches apart. A small 
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