THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
the tile or potsherd should be placed with its convex side 
over the hole in the bottom of the pot, and then a 
number of pieces should be so arranged over it, and by 
its side, with a small handful of clean washed gravel or 
pebbles, or potsherds over them, and a little green moss, 
or chopped straw over all. The water will get down, 
and escape between the bottom ot the pot and the tile,, 
though a small worm would not be able to wriggle itselt 
in. The chopped straw, or the moss, is necessary for 
this plan, as otherwise the water would wash down the 
line earth, which concentrating around the potsherd 
with its convex side over the hole, the plant would be 
in danger of becoming water-logged. Our amateur 
friends should always endeavour to have a little green 
moss for this purpose, as independently ot thus securing 
drainage it also acts as an equaliser of moisture 
parting with water when excessive, but retaining a 
portion for a long time before it becomes quite dry. 
Those who wish to secure drainage and keep out worms 
more neatly, should have a number of little caps or bowls 
made of tin, zinc, or galvanised iron, from one inch to 
two or three inches in diameter and in depth, the bottom 
terminating in a convex point. By placing the open 
part or mouth of the bowl over the hole in the bottom ol 
the pot, and surrounding the cap with drainage in the 
I usual way, there will be no danger of the water not find¬ 
ing an outlet. 
In repotting, the common method (and which for 
small plants cannot be improved upon) is to spread the 
palm and fingers of the left hand over the surface of the 
pot and soil, to turn the pot topsy-turvy, and holding its 
bottom, now uppermost, with the right hand, strike the 
side of the pot farthest from you on the side of the 
potting-bench; and while the ball of the plant rests in 
your left hand, the right hand puts aside the old pot, 
and is ready to assist in transferring the plant with its 
roots into the new soil. But before that is done, several 
things must be looked after. First—though you see 
no worms, notice if there be no worm tracks; because if 
there be, ten to one the sleek cunning fellow is ensconsed 
in the centre of your ball, and thence you must dislodge 
him, by boring through the ball with a piece of wire, or 
very thin wood. Secondly—observe the depth at which 
the plant previously stood in the pot, and do not place 
it deeper in the new, but rather scrape away a quantity 
of the surface soil, that you may be enabled to put alittle 
fresh there. Hundreds of plants are killed by covering 
the stem of the plant too deeply; and thousands of forest 
trees meet with a lingering existence from the same 
cause. As a general rule—the collar of the plant, that 
is, the place from which roots and stem respectively 
I start, should not be much, if at all, covered. Thirdly— 
observe whether the roots are densely matted on the 
| outside of the ball; and what then ? I can recollect 
the period, when in such cases he considered himself a 
clever fellow who could take his knife and slice oil’ all 
such matted roots with as much gusto as the shepherd 
cuts up turnips for his sheep. This is bad. Gently dis¬ 
entangle the roots, and trace them out, so that they will 
form separate layers in the new soil you are going to 
give them. When traced out. jamming them all close 
together, as if you were fixing a gate-post, and the 
cutting them off in slices are alike specimens of bar¬ 
barism. Fourthly—plants that have been shifted 
previously, and are merely to bo grown on, require 
1 different treatment from those which have been standing 
I during the winter in the pots in which they grew the 
I previous summer. The first will want little done to the 
i roots, and little soil to be removed, the old drainage 
being chiefly taken away. The others must have the 
roots examined, traced, pruned if necessary, and as 
much as possible of the old soil got rid of. 
When the soil is all nicely packed about them again, 
the plants must be kept close, watered, shaded from 
[April 4. 
bright sun, and frequently syringed, to check trans¬ 
piration, until they have fairly commenced making fresh 
roots and top growth. * It. h ish. 
HOTHOUSE DEPARTMENT. 
EXOTIC ORCHID ACE Ah 
Routine Work for April. —Continue to pot all 
plants that begin to shew growth; such plants as 
Catesetums, Monnodes, and Gycnoches, must now be 
growing, and ought to be potted forthwith. As the sun 
increases in power let the shades be let down earlier in 
the day ; if the house is of the aspect we have described 
(that is, facing east and west) the shades should be let 
down on the east side as early as nine o’clock a.m. 
when the sun shines clearly—it may remain down till 
one, and then he drawn up; at 12 let down the shade 
on the west side, and draw it off as the sun declines. 
If the house is a lean-to facing the noon-day sun, the 
shade will neither be required so early in the morning 
nor to be kept on so long in the afternoon. On all dull 
days the shades will not be necessary at all; the grand 
object to aim at is to give orchids all the light possible j 
without sunshine. The syringe may now be used pretty 
freely, as most of the plants are, or ought to be, growing 
rapidly. When the house is shut up, the shades drawn j 
up, and everything set right to be left for the evening, 
then syringe the plants and every part of the house, j 
Leave it hot and moist, and in the morning you will 
find your plants looking fresh, clean, and healthy. The 
heat may be increased now almost to the maximum; j 
always remembering that the heat of the day ought to 
exceed the heat of the night 10° at the least; this gives 
the plants time to consolidate their growth, for it by 
great heat and moisture any plant is forced into growth 
as much and as fast as in the day, the apparent growth 
is not real; it is only, as it were, drawn out like wire; 
but let the plants have their night’s rest and they will 
start strongly and freely duriug the day. 11 uter, also, j 
may be given in greater abundance, and more olten, as \ 
the season advances, and the compost appears to dry 
more than in the dark short days. In the application 
of water much judgment must lie exercised; the quan¬ 
tity required either from the syringe or watering-pot j 
depending greatly upon the weather externally; if it be | 
cloudy, rainy, and cold, so that no air can be given, the 
water will not evaporate so freely; and as the young 
shoots are very tender, if the water lodges in or near 
them for 24 hours it is almost sure to destroy them. 
The time has not come yet to give abundance of water; 
we shall not forget to remind our orchid-loving friends \ 
when it does arrive. 
The warm weather will bring to life myriads of in- I 
sects; these must be diligently sought for and destroyed, i 
One of the most destructive, even to the most valuable j 
plants—such as Aerides, Saccolabiums, Vandas, and the j 
like—is a very small insect, which in its young state is ! 
white, but when full grown turns black; it is known j 
amongst gardeners by the name of the Black Thrip. | 
This insect congregates on the under sides of the leaves, j 
old as well as young, and sucking out their juices causes j 
them to turn yellow, become spotty, and eventually 
perish. There are no insects so difficult to destroy, 
though frequent washing of the leaves will prevent their 
increase. The following has been found to be a good ; 
method to clear the houses of this pest; it may he used 
successfully in the common stove also when the thrip is j 
observed there:—Procure some flowers of sulphur (hall j 
a pound will be enough for a stove 50 feet long), as soon 
as the house is shut up mix the sulphur with a gallon 
of water, and with a common whitewash brush apply it 
