THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
48 
and capillary attraction, and the fibres will imbibe that 
moisture as'it passes. Keep moistening an inch or two 
on the surface, and what is the result; surface roots are 
encouraged, only to be parched up by the next days 
sun; watering on the surface is again repeated, and a 
similar result takes place. Meanwhile, the lower roots 
are deprived of their accustomed moisture, tor your mis¬ 
taken kindness has put an extinguisher upon the 
capillary action that would have raised moisture irom 
the interior of the earth, as if by a pump handle and 
sucker Hence, in watering out of doors, first stir the 
soil soak it well, and then, as soon as the surface is dry, 
stir'it up and leave it rough, that the sun’s rays may 
not hastily evaporate the moisture you have given, hor 
good general cultivation, therefore, with established 
plants, give plenty of surface-stirring with the lioe and 
the fork, and then next to “ a fig for the water pail. 
But in the case of plants set in their pots upon a 
window-sill, or on the stage of a greenhouse, there is no 
under-moisture available, and, therefore, water must be 
given with even more care, as the dribbling on the 
surface will be attended with even more baneful results. 
In extremely dry and hot weather, shading and plunging 
the pots in damp moss will prevent the necessity of 
frequent watering; in such circumstances, also, more 
than in any other, top-surfacing with rich material, or 
the use of manured water, in the case of plants that wifi 
Pear it, must be resorted to, otherwise the frequent 
watering will wash all the nourishing properties out of 
The use of saucers for the pots to stand in would, at 
first sight, seem to answer the same purpose as the 
storehouse of moisture in the interior of the earth im¬ 
plants growing in the open air; and though for some 
plants it is better to give them the water at the bottom 
rather than at the top, and though free-growing plants 
would suffer nothing from water being kept in these 
saucers in very bright, hot weather, yet, in general cir¬ 
cumstances, and especially in dull weather, it would be 
prejudicial to allow the water to remain about any plants 
except those of an aquatic character. After watering, 
therefore, when the soil has become thoroughly wetted, 
and what has run through has been allowed to remain 
a short time in the saucer, in order to make sure of that 
thorough soaking, the water should then be emptied out 
of the saucers. 
If from inadvertence a plant should have become so 
dry that the soil, by contracting, parts from the sides of the 
pot, then, instead'of watering in the usual way, which 
would be of little use, as the water would escape by the 
sides and leave the centro dry, it is best to set the pot 
in a tub or pail of water and allow it to become tho¬ 
roughly soaked, and then drained before replacing it 
upon the stage. “ But how am I to know when a plant 
is so dry as to require this thorough soaking which is to 
reach every fibre?” Experience and practice alone can 
be your true guide; the very appearance of the plant 
will soon tell you, long before the leaves begin to flag, 
for that must not be allowed to take place from want of 
water, but as seldom as possible, for it is next to ruin to 
some plants. But the mere flagging, or drooping, of 
the leaf is no proof at all times that the plant is dry, as 
that will take place in a sunny day, after shady weather, 
from the plant being unable, all at once, to supply by its 
roots the demand made by evaporation upon the per¬ 
spiring surface of the leaves; and here a sprinkle with 
the syringe over the foliage to check evaporation would 
be better than drenching the soil, moist enough already. 
Moreover, many plants seem to droop when they put 
their nightcaps on for a quiet doze, and in their case it 
is only necessary to wait for the return of day, which 
will soon revive them in a manner which no appliances 
of yours in such circumstances could ever accomplish. 
As a kind of physical guide to the knowing whether a 
[April 25. 
plant wants watering, take the two following First, 
Accustom yourself to lift a pot when dry and when wet, 
and the difference of weight will soon enable you easily 
to decide in respect to any particular plant, whether it 
is dry or not. Secondly. Strike the pot sharply on the 
side as it stands with one of your knuckles, if the soil 
within be wet the sound will be dull, if dry the sound 
will be clear and sharp. 
Temperature of Water. —In spring, autumn, and win¬ 
ter, the water used should he several degrees warmer 
than the atmosphere in which the plants are growing. 
Time for Watering. —In winter, early spring, and late 
autumn, watering should be done in the morning, at 
other times in the evening. 
Hirer , or rather rain water, should, if possible, be used 
for all plants; and where that cannot be procured, spring 
water slioidd be exposed to the atmosphere before being 
used. 
Manure-water should be given chiefly at those seasons 
when growth is most luxuriant, and the secretions most 
abundant. R- h ISH - 
HOTHOUSE DEPARTMENT. 
STOVE PLANTS. 
Portlandia.Gbandifi.oea (Large-flowered Portlandia: 
was so named in honour of the Duchess of Portland). 
This is a noble stove plant, with large deep green foliage, 
and fine pure white flowers, agreeably perfumed. They 
appear in pairs at the end of each shoot; and measure 
from four to five inches long, and from three to four 
inches across the mouth of the cup. The leaves are 
oval-shaped, six inches long when fully grown, and of a 
most beautiful light green. With tolerable management 
the plant forms a handsome bush. Though introduced 
so long since as 1775, it is yet a rare plant—a matter 
rather for surprise, considering that it is so beautiful, and 
is not difficult either to grow or propagate. We can only 
account for its comparative rarity by supposing, that 
cultivators ot stove plants arc ignorant, almost, ot its 
existence, and quite so of its beauty and easy culture. 
It is to make such line plants more sought for by our 
readers that we write about them, for there arc many 
plants occupying spaces in stoves that might be filled 
by better and handsomer plants. We would recommend 
to every cultivator a selection of the finest plants, rather 
than a collection of all kinds—good, middling, and in¬ 
different. There are certain points or qualities in stove 
plants as well as in florists’ flowers that render them 
worthy of the space and care bestowed upon them ; and, 
unless a plant has the most, if not all, of these points, let 
it be discarded at once from the selection. 
The first point is, that the plant should have fine 
flowers; either lasting a moderately long time, or be 
produced in succession for a considerable period. 
The second is, handsome foliage of a pleasing colour. 
Some, indeed, have such fine variegated leaves (such 
as the Crotons, Pavetta Borbonica , some species of 
Tillandsia, and Draccma) as to render them beautiful 
objects all the year round, though then - flowers do not 
reach the first point of excellence. 
The third point is, a good habit; that is, with mode¬ 
rate skill and care bestowed upon them to form hand¬ 
some bushes, or little trees of an elegant shape. 
Every stove plant ought to have, at least, two of the 
above qualities, to render it worthy of cultivation, espe¬ 
cially where the stovo-lionse is of small dimensions. 
The subject with which we commenced these observa¬ 
tions. the Portlandia, possesses all three ot these points 
in the highest degree; and, consequently, recommends 
itself to the grower of even a very limited quantity ot 
stove plants. We shall describe its culture under three 
heads:—Propagation, Soil, and General Management. 
