THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
April 25.] 
Propagation. —It is always desirable to know how to 
increase a beautiful plant, because, it we have only one, 
it tnay die from unforeseen causes, such as accident, or 
disease; and the regret for its loss would be much les¬ 
sened, if we had a young one or two to replace it. The 
best way to increase the Portlandia is by cuttings of the 
young shoots. Take them off, with a sharp knife, just 
below the second pair of leaves from the top. Cut off 
the two lower leaves, and then cut off the shoot hori¬ 
zontally, close to the node, or joint. Leave the two 
I upper leaves entire. Insert the cutting in a pot, four 
j inches across, half-filled with drainage, then sandy peat, 
with an inch of pure white sand at the top, level with the 
rim. Put the cuttings in by the aid of a small smooth stick. 
It will be necessary to water the sand with a fine rose 
watering-pot first, or the sand will fill up the hole before 
you can get the cuttings into their places. They will 
strike sooner if they are put in close to the side of the 
pot. Fill up the holes with some dry sand. Then give 
a gentle watering to settle the sand close to each cutting. 
This is very important, as the air is then excluded com¬ 
pletely from the bottom of the cuttings. Place a bell- 
glass "over them, taking cai’e that the leaves are in such 
a position, leaning inwards, as not to touch the sides ol 
the bell-glass. Plunge the pots in a gentle hotbed, 
either of leaves, or tempered stable litter, or tanners' 
spent bark ; the last material is the best. Shade them 
from the sun, both by spreading on the glass of the 
frame either canvass or mats, and by putting sheets of 
paper over the bell-glasses; removing the shades as the 
sun declines. The best time for propagating is early 
spring. Should much moisture accumulate on the sides 
of the bell-glasses, let them be wiped quite dry every 
day till the cuttings show growth, when the wiping may 
be done only occasionally. As soon as they have made 
roots they should be potted into 24 inch pots, and placed 
under hand-glasses, with moveable tops, for a month or 
six weeks, till they are fairly established; the shading 
to be continued till that takes place. Then remove the 
tops of the hand-glasses for an hour or two, early in the 
morning, replacing them during the day ; lift them oil 
again in the afternoon, and replace them during the 
night. This will harden them off till they are aide to 
bear removal into the stove. By this method, which 
we have described rather minutely, most kinds of shrubby 
stove plants may be propagated. There are some ex¬ 
ceptions which we shall notice when we treat ol the 
plants that require a different mode of propagation. 
Soil. —It is of the greatest importance to know the 
right kind of soil, or compost, a plant thrives heat in. 
Numbers of stove plants do well in any light rich soil; 
our present subject delights in a mixture of light fibrous 
loam, sandy peat, and a very small quantity of vege¬ 
table mould. The proportions should be, the two first 
in equal parts, and one-eighth of the latter. The pots 
should be well drained with broken potsherds, in the 
usual manner. 
General Management. —To form handsome specimens, 
follow the same plan as recommended for the Ixora, at 
jiage 847 of the third volume of this work. As the 
plants advance in growth, give them increased room for 
their roots, and fresh food to feed upon; but do not over¬ 
pot them at any time, as this fine plant is not by any 
means a gross feeder, like Clerodondrunis and other 
strong-growing stove shrubs. 
lleat. —Place it in the warmest part of the stove, for, 
being a native of Jamaica—in the warmest vallies of 
that tropical island—it loves plenty of heat. When it 
is in flower it ought to be kept rather cooler, so as to 
prolong the bloom. Shade will be necessary whilst it is 
in flower, for the same purpose. As it thrives best in 
heat, plunging in the bark bed—where there is such a 
In winter a cessa- 
4') 
convenience- 
-will be advantageous. 
tion of growth will enable it to advance and flower the 
better in the spring and summer. 
Water .—This plant does not require so much water 
at the root as most other inhabitants of the stove ; in 
the growing season, of course, they require the most. 
Syringing over-head should be applied frequently during 
that season, but in winter both modes of applying mois¬ 
ture should be sparingly adopted. By attention to these 
minutiae of culture, the amateur will succeed well in 
bringing to the point of excellence this noble stove 
shrub. 
There is a species named Portlandia coccinea, but, 
from what we have seen of it, it seems to be a shy grower; 
but, if the blooms are as large as those of P. grandifiora , 
and of a fine scarlet colour, as the name implies, it 
must be a beautiful species indeed. We have some 
young plants of it, but have not, as yet, seen the flowers. 
The foliage seems to be much smaller than that of Port¬ 
landia grandifiora. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
The warm weather, with which we have been favoured 
lately, has rapidly brought on these highly-valued flowers. 
It will be necessary, now, to shade such as have come 
into bloom, and even to remove them into cooler quarters. 
We allude more especially to auriculas and polyanthuses. 
There are few gardens but have a wall or a hedge, where 
these early bloomers may be placed on the north side ol 
it; either under hand-glasses set upon something to 
elevate them three or four inches from the ground, or 
in small one or two-light frames tilted up in a similar 
manner. We prefer the frames, because they are more 
conveniently and securely covered up at night, to protect 
the tender flower from bleak winds, or even frosts, which 
may yet visit us. Those that are not yet in bloom may 
be continued in the original frame, or pit, to bring them 
forward. By thus retarding the early blooms, and for¬ 
warding the late ones, the chance of having a good stock 
in bloom at once will be greatly increased. 
Dahlias.— The early-struck plants may now be placed 
on a bed of ashes in the open air, placing some hoops 
over them, and covering thorn up every nightwitli mats 
to protect them from late frost. This exposure will 
strengthen them greatly, and enable them to grow 
freely and strongly when planted out for the summer. 
Pinks.- —We can only reiterate our instructions as to 
the treatment these favourites continue to require. 
Keep them clear of weeds, stir the surface frequently, 
and place neat sticks near to such as are beginning to 
spindle up their flower-stems. Tie loosely, so as to 
allow for the stems growing longer. 
Tulips. —We are happy to say, that the late cold wea¬ 
ther has not materially injured the tulips, at least round 
London. They appear of the healthiest green, with 
stout leaves; and the flower-buds are beginning to appear 
very promisingly—at least, such is the case where the 
u.-mal care and attention has been bestowed upon them. 
Wc can only say, eoutiuue that care still, as we are not 
yet quite safe. I • Appleby. 
THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
Routine Work. —The present is a very busy and in¬ 
teresting part of the season. The seeds which have been 
committed to the earth, whilst in a healthy state, quickly 
produce strong plants, which will maintain their healthy 
luxuriance, if timely and methodical attention is given 
to surface-stirring, tliinning-out, and, in due season, 
making up any little vacancies that may occur through 
the seed not having been distributed regularly by the 
sower, or through the depredations ot birds, mice, in¬ 
sects, &c. If proper attention is paid to these little 
matters, an even luxuriant crop will be the result. 
