May 23.] 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
Ill 
to stand the light and air. The best time to propagate is 
in early spring; this allows time for a second potting, 
and the plants become strong and bushy by the autumn. 
We have frequently had plants flower tire spring follow¬ 
ing that have beeu thus raised. 
After-management. —When plants are a year old, they 
will he a right size to place in baskets to be suspended 
from the roof, either of the stove or orchid house. The 
baskets may be made of various materials, and of vari¬ 
ous forms. We prefer, as in the case of orchidaceous 
plants, to make them of wood; crooked branches of 
oak make curious fantastic baskets very suitable for 
these plants. Those who wish for neater baskets, may 
have them made of copper wire, or even of iron wire 
well painted. When the baskets are ready for use, line 
them first with moss, and then fill them with a light 
rich compost; make a hole in the middle, and place 
the plant in it. If the branches stand up too much, 
fasten them down with small neat pegs, so as to spread 
the branches equally on every side of the basket. They 
are naturally pendent, and will afterwards hang down of 
themselves. During the summer, let them have free 
supplies of water to encourage liberal growth, but do 
not allow them to produce flowers, as that will weaken 
them; growth must be the great desideratum the first 
year. In winter, keep them rather dry and cool; this 
I will give them a rest; and the year following, if all be 
: right, they will flower most profusely, and be really 
j handsome objects. 
If you choose to grow any on blocks, and as a curi¬ 
osity it is really worth while, procure a piece of the branch 
; of a tree, cover it with green Hakes of moss, tying it on 
with small copper wire; then take one, or two, or even 
tlu-ee plants (of different kinds if you will) and fasten 
them to the block, covering their roots with more moss, 
and tying them to the wood with more copper wire. If 
the branches are long and hang down loose, tie them up 
to the branch with more copper wire; after this they 
will require no more care, excepting duly syringing and 
occasionally dipping in tepid water. By this treatment 
they will form very beautiful objects. 
The principal way, however, of cultivating these beau¬ 
tiful plants is in pots. To effect this to perfection it 
will be necessary to grow them on fast and strong by 
generous treatment, that is, frequently repotting in light 
rich compost till they are large enough to place a trellis 
to which to tie them : this trellis may either be formed 
with slender rods of willow or hazel, or, if the cultivator 
chooses to go to the expense, any wireworker will make 
it of any size or pattern. 
The following are the species best adapted for baskets 
or blocks:— 
AEschynanthus Lobbianus; dark scarlet. 
„ pulcher major ; scarlet. 
,, ramosissimus; ditto. 
,, Boschianus; ditto. 
,, radicans; ditto. 
„ grandiflorus; orange scarlet. 
„ zebrinus; the flowers are not showy, 
but the foliage is beautiful. 
„ discolor; ditto ditto. 
The next are best grown in pots tied to a trellis— 
AEschynantlius miniatus ; rich crimson. 
„ bngijiorus; orange scarlet. 
By this method they may all be grown excepting 
AEschynanthm speciosus; this is an upright, stout 
growing species, flowering at the end of each shoot in 
bunches of seven or eight flowers, of the finest orange 
colour. This is the finest of the whole genus, and ought 
to be in every stove, however small. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
We have at length really fine weather, and the ama¬ 
teur florist will take advantage of it to assist nature as 
much as possible in bringing these flowers to the greatest 
perfection. 
Auriculas and Polyanthuses may now be potted, the 
former in rich, light compost, and the latter in one with 
rather more loam in it. Now is the time, when the 
potting is being done, to increase them; take off all 
rooted offsets, and such as are pretty strong pot into 
4-inch pots, but small ones may be put two, three, or 
four into the same sized pots, placing them close to the 
sides, at equal distances. When they are all potted, 
place them on the shady side of a low wall, upon a thick 
layer of coal ashes, watering them gently in dry weather, 
and keep a good look out for slugs and other destructive 
vermin. 
Carnations and Picotees. —With a pair of sharp 
scissors clip out close all yellow leaves; by this means 
that pest the red spider will be checked, as well as a 
neat clean appearance given to the plants. Keep them 
loosely tied to the stakes, and water freely during dry 
weather. 
Dahlias. —Towards the end of the mouth the strongest 
plants may be put out into their blooming quarters; 
they love a very rich soil and plenty of room; the situa¬ 
tion, if possible, should be a sheltered but by no means 
a close one. Place the stakes, firmly driven down, pre¬ 
viously to planting, as there is then no danger of bruising 
the roots, which might be if the stakes had to be driven 
in some tune after the dahlias were planted. To secure 
them from late frosts, which may yet come upon us, 
cover them up every night with empty garden pots. 
Protect from snails by covering the surface near to each 
plant with rough, sharp coal-aslies, and water some¬ 
times with lime-water if any slugs are observed. 
Pinks are now growing freely, and must, without 
farther delay, have sticks put to them. Pipings should 
be taken of the stronger plants, and put in either under 
hand-glasses, upon a gentle heat, or be planted in pots 
filled with light soil, with one inch of sand at the top ; 
place them in a gentle hotbed, shading from the sun 
till they begin to grow. By raising them thus early 
strong plants are obtained for next years’ bloom. 
T. Appleby. 
THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
If all our directions have been properly attended to in 
this department, there will remain at the present time 
but little spare ground unoccupied. 
Angelica. —If enough has not already been secured 
for preserving, &c., apply good liquid manure pretty 
freely, in order to keep up a quick and vigorous growth, 
taking cai'e that the seed-stalks do not make much pro¬ 
gress previous to their being broken out, with the ex¬ 
ception of one or two intended to be left for seed, as the 
plants very frequently become so much exhausted that 
some of them in consequence die. 
Beet. —Observe in due time whether the plants have 
come up regularly, if not, the plants were perhaps too 
thick, and may be taken up and transplanted very ad¬ 
vantageously ; but Beet should not be over thinned, as it 
is liable to become too large by such treatment to be 
either handsome or useful. 
The Early Pea ground if planted on sloping banks as 
previously directed, may have Dwarf Kidney Beans 
planted to advantage on the opposite side of the peas, that 
by the time the peas are ready to be cleared the French 
beaus will have established themselves for a summer 
crop. The alley between each bank may then be forked- 
up and cropped with Gape hrocoli between the beaus. 
Celery. —Its growth should now be well encouraged, 
and a plentiful supply of plants in succession kept, 
pricked, and encouraged on kindly soil. The Early Cauli¬ 
flower ground as soon as cleared, may at once be pre¬ 
pared for a main crop of Celery without much trouble, 
