MO 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[May 30. 
large fuchsias and geraniums for succession. Hence the importance of 
screens, &c., for securing different temperatures. Cuttings insert, and pot 
off when struck ; many of the first struck will make fine plants for autumn 
and the beginning of winter. Climbers —many tender annuals, such 
as Thunbergia and Ipomea, may now be introduced, either upon pillars or 
trellises. Cleanliness must be particularly attended to. No plants 
can be healthy with yellow or dust-encrusted leaves; and the sight of 
such is always a speaking reproach. The system of picking off every 
yellow leaf that presented itself as you went round with the watering-pot 
would prevent the woe-begone aspect which yellow-leaved plants always 
wear. Grafting may still be done, in the case of myrtles, oranges. 
Daphnes, camellias, &c.; but, as it is getting late, you must try and 
obtain scions from retarded plants, and then place them in a gentle hot¬ 
bed, and keep them close until the union is effected. Oranges and 
Lemons should have the blossom thinned and impregnated, where fruit 
is wanted. Seedlings of all kinds prick off. Shift everything that 
requires it, for all vital action is now rapidly progressing. Watering 
will be required oftener; and, in small pots, at times twice a-day. Manure- 
water may be given liberally, to promote luxuriant growth when wanted. 
R. Fish. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Anemones, take up as leaves wither: dry and store. Annuals 
(Hardy and some Tender), plant out to remain, in showery weather best; 
some (hardy) may be sowed, b. Auriculas, continue shading; plant 
offsets ; prick out seedlings. Baskets or clumps, form of greenhouse 
plants. Beds, attend diligently to recent planted; water am] stir them 
in dry weather. Biennials and Perennials, sow, if omitted, b. Box 
edgings clip. Bulbous Roots (Tulips, Jonquils, &c.), not florists’ 
flowers, remove offsets from; dry and store; may transplant some, 
or keep until autumn; (autumn flowering), as Colcliicums, See., take 
up as leaves decay, separate offsets, and replant, or not until 
end of July. Carnations, in bloom, attend: aid the bud-pod to 
split with a pair of narrow sharp-pointed scissors ; bandage buds, to 
prevent bursting, with Indian-rubber rings, or tape; water every 
second day ; tie to supporters, &c.; prick out seedlings ; make layers ; 
pipe. Chrysanthemums, plant out to layer next month. Cyclamens, 
transplant. Dahlias, finish planting out, b. Dress the borders assi¬ 
duously ; neatness now stamps a gardener’s character. Fibrous-rooted 
Perennials, propagate by cuttings; shade and water. Flowering 
Plants generally require training and support. Grass, mow, roll, and 
trim edges. Gravel, weed, sweep, and roll. Hedges, clip, e. Leaves 
and stems decaying, remove as they appear. Liquid Manure, apply 
occasionally to all choice flowers. Mignonette, plant out; sow, b. 
Mimuluses, plant out. Pieonies (Chinese), water freely with liquid 
manure, or they will not flower finely. Pink Seedlings, prick out; 
make layers. Pipings (or cuttings) of Carnations and Pinks may be 
planted. Potted Flowers, dress, stir earth, and water regularly. 
Ranunculuses, take up as leaves wither, dry and store. Roses, bud, 
lay, and inarch; fumigate with tobacco to destroy the aphis or green fly ; 
Roses out of doors, wash with tobacco-water. Salvia Patens, pinch 
down centre stem to make it bushy. Seedlings of Perennials and Bien¬ 
nials, transplant. Seeds (ripe), gatherin dry weather. Seed Vessels, 
remove, to prolong flowering. Water, give freely and frequently to all 
newly moved plants, and to others in dry weather ; early in the morning 
or late in the evening is the best time. Brompton Stocks and Moss's 
Intermediate should"be sown on a north border. They will require to be 
potted in September, and sheltered in a cold pit or greenhouse during 
the winter. Peg down Salvias, and, for a time, until the layers are rooted, 
cut off the flowers. Verbenas, peg down to cover the beds sooner. 
Tulips, continue to shade to prolong the bloom, b. ; towards e. expose 
them to full sun to ripen the bulbs ; take off seed vessels for the same 
purpose. Slips of Double Wallflowers, Sweet Williams, and Rockets, 
put in, either under hand-glasses or under a north wall or low hedge. 
_ D. Beaton. 
ORCHARD. 
Apricots, thin for t3rts. Apples, search for caterpillars. Currants, 
stop watery wood. Currants (black), water if dry. Cherries, free 
from aphides. Disbud all trained trees. Figs, thin the young wood, 
and stop. Gooseberries, free from caterpillars. Insects in general, 
try to extirpate. Mulching practise where necessary. Peaches, thin 
both wood and fruit, and stop gross shoots. Plums, cleanse from 
aphides, and disbud. Pears, disbud, and stop. Raspberries, thin 
suckers. Strawberries, water if dry, clear runners, and put some¬ 
thing to keep fruit clean. Strawberry (Alpine), clear runners from, 
and water. Stopping practise constantly, where necessary. Thinning 
practise, both with fruit and wood. Training commence, and con¬ 
tinue. Vermin destroy. Vines, thin shoots, and stop. Watering 
attended to. _ R. Errington. 
FORCING STOVE. 
Cucumbers, keep thinned and stopped. Cherries, water liberally, 
and cleanse from aphides. Capsicums shift finally, and place in a warm 
situation. Fire-iieat dispense with as much as possible. Grates 
thin, and tie shoulders of the late ones. Grapes ripening, remove a few 
laterals. Liquid Manure apply where size and strength are required. 
Melons, attend to setting, water freely when swelling; thin the vines 
frequently, and attend to linings. Nectarines treat as Peaches. 
Peacuf.s disbud and stop gross shoots; apply liquid manure, and thin 
fruit. Peaches ripening, remove those leaves which shade the fruit. 
Strawberries, turn out healthy plants from forcing-house ; they will 
fruit in September. Shading, practise with delicate things, during 
intense sunshine. Vines, attend to disbudding and stopping. Ven¬ 
tilate freely. Watering, neglect not. R. Errington. 
PLANT STOVE. 
TEscnYNANTHES, put in cuttings, pot into large pots and train round 
a trellis ; place in baskets to suspend from the roof of the orchid-house. 
Amaryllis aulica and varieties pot and plunge in a very gentle heat. 
A'Ciiimenes, repot and shade. Begonias, propagate, and finish potting. 
Bildergias, divide such as have bloomed; repot young plants. Cala- 
dium bicolor, repot, and grow on, to cause it to make large leaves. 
Clerodendrum, one more shift. Climbers, tie in, wash to keep clean. 
Diciiorizandra ovata and its allies, pot and grow on. Eran- 
themum pulciiellum, raise in quantity to bloom in winter. Ges- 
nerias, pot, and grow on to increase their bulbs; put in cuttings of. 
Gloxinias, pot seedlings, and young plants; place them in heat; a 
hotbed is the best. Gardenias, done blooming, place in a cool pit to 
rest. Hedychiums, place in large pots to bloom. Ixoras, put in 
cuttings; pot young plants and specimens ; tie the latter out to allow 
young shoots to spring up in the centre. Luculias, place out of doors 
for a month. Insects, destroy diligently. Musas, either plant out in 
a bed, or put them in your largest pots ; put short dung in lumps on the 
surface. Nepenthes (Pitcher plant), pot, and plunge in bark-bed, or 
plant them upon a warm flue, covering it first with moss. Potting may 
now be done throughout all Stove plants ; they will require no more this 
year. Syringe the walls, and water freely during bright days. Syringe the 
plants generally at least once a day. Stove bulbs, done flowering, place 
in cold-pit, giving no water to induce rest. Water, apply freely to the 
roots of most kinds of Stove plants. T. Appleby. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
Auriculas, finish potting and placing in summer quarters ; seedlings 
transplant, and as soon as strong enough put into small pots singly. 
Carnations and Picotees, place in their blooming quarters; com¬ 
mence layering as soon as the annual shoots are long enough. Dahlias, 
finish planting, b.; stake and tie early to secure the plants from wind. 
Prick out seedlings, and Pot late struck cuttings in four-inch pots, to 
keep them in through the winter. Irises, in flower, protect from sun, 
wind, and rain. Pinks, tie to slender sticks to prevent the pod-buds 
bursting on one side, put round them a strap of India rubber or bass 
mat, before the flower opens; finish piping. Panseys, now in bloom, 
protect from sun, wind, and rain ; continue to put in cuttings ; save seed 
and sow immediately. Ranunculus bed, water freely, stir the soil 
when moderately dry ; protect the flowers from sun, wind, and heavy rain. 
Tulips, early kinds, when the leaves turn yellow take up and dry 
gradually. Turn over composts, and procure fresh loam and peat. 
Weeds, carefully eradicate from every pot and bed in the garden. 
_ T. Appleby. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Alexanders, earth up in dry weather. Asparagus beds, sprinkle 
with salt, and stir with some pointed implement which can be used readily 
among the plants ; no weeds will appear if salting has been attended to. 
Basil, plant out in good rich warm borders ; attend to watering, &c. 
Broad beans, plant for late crops; let the soil be rich, and if the 
weather be very hot, give a thorough watering at the time of planting. 
Beets, thin out, and fill up any vacancies by transplanting ; do this in 
dull weather, and water well. Borage, thin out from eight inches to a 
foot apart. Borecoles, of all kinds, prick out four to six inches apart. 
Brussels sprouts and Brocoli, of all sorts, both prick out, and plant 
out finally, in particular such as the Purple Cape and Walcheren. Cab¬ 
bages, sow ; prick out; and plant out finally, and earth stir. Carrots, 
finally thin out. Cauliflowers, prick out; plant out in succession; 
let those in forward growth be well basined up to receive plenty of water; 
those that are heading-in should be looked over occasionally, and a few 
of their leaves inverted down over the young heads, to preserve them of a 
fine white colour. Celery, prick out, and plant out finally. Cucum¬ 
bers, plant out under hand-glasses, for pickling, See. ; keep the glasses 
close a few days, until the plants are become established, in particular if 
the bottom heat is not very much ; when established, let them be inured 
to the open air steadily ; those in pits and frames should be weekly 
attended to, stopped, thinned out, and top-dressed. Endive, make a 
small sowing of both sorts—Batavian and Green Curled—for early crops. 
Garlic, Shallots, and Under-ground Onions should be full-grown 
and fit to take up, dried off, and stored away for use. Herbs, of all 
kinds, should be cut when in flower for drying and distilling. Jeru¬ 
salem Artichokes, keep free from weeds with the hoe. Dwarf 
Kidney Beans and Scarlet Runners, sow for late and last crops; 
should the weather be very dry at the time of sowing, give a good soaking 
of water, which will cause them to vegetate quickly ; attend to sticking 
and earth stirring often. Leeks, thin out, and transplant. Trans¬ 
planting, always do in the evening, and well water. Lettuces, sow 
often in a situation where they are to finish their growth ; place a stick to 
those intended for seed; tie up in dry weather; a few at a time, 
according to the consumption. Melons, lose no time in planting out 
for the late crops; look daily to those setting their fruit; attend to this 
setting the fruit, and topping the shoots, about eleven o’clock in the 
forenoon every day ; attend to earthing, &c., about three in the afternoon 
of a warm day, at ter which, sprinkle the plants over with water, and shut 
up early. Mint beds which were made last month surface-stir the earth. 
Knotted Marjoram, plant out in warm borders. Onions, thin out, 
and transplant, to fill up vacant spaces. Parsley, sow, and thin out. 
Parsnips should be finally thinned out eight to ten inches apart. Peas, 
sow ; Tall Knight’s Marrows may be sown in the early part of this month, 
but sow any of the early kinds towards the latter end of the month, such 
as the Early Warwick, Sc c; should the weather be dry, well water at the 
time of sowing; attend to hoeing and sticking. Radishes, sow often 
in cool situations in rich soil. Savoys, plant out finally, and prick out 
for future plantings. Vegetable Marrow, plant out. Thyme, plant 
out seedlings. Use the hoe freely in dry weather. Take advantage of 
dull or wet weather for planting, or pricking out. 
T. Weaver. 
London : Printed by Harry Wooldridge, Winchester High Street, 
in the Parish of Saint Mary Kalendar, and Published by William 
Somerville Orr, at the Office, No. 2, Amen Corner, in the Parish of 
Christ Church, City of London.—May 30, 1850. 
