THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
231 
July 11.] 
and is now standing in a sunny warm greenhouse, and syringed every 
evening, should be duly supplied with water, and allowed to remain there 
until the side shoots begin to break, when it should be cut back, and the 
voung shoots encouraged to grow so as to form buds for the next season’s 
blooming. This breaking and cutting back should have been effected 
before potting, but as that has been done, it cannot be helped. You will 
accomplish your object more effectually, if you could set your plant in a 
pit or frame, kept close and moist; and if there was a slight heat from 
sweet dung, all the better. During winter a temperature of 45° will suit 
it, but in spring, just as fresh growth commences, you must return it 
again into a moist heat (and if from sweet dung it will vastly enjoy it), if 
you wish your flowers to be large and fine. 
Cyclamen Seedlings (M. B. L.). —These on a south balcony would 
be better if slightly shaded ; the leaves do not grow large the first season ; 
but you should have more of them. We are obliged by you numbering your 
queries; it saves time and space, and we will answer them accordingly. 
1st. The seedlings do not require bottom-heat, nor yet to be put in a 
cucumber-pit. 2nd. Continue watering until the leaves begin to fade, 
then place them in a cold-pit, where they shall neither be dry nor wet, 
because if too dry the tuber would be shrivelled ; and keep them from 
frost during winter. 3rd. We prefer keeping them in pots, as the earth 
prevents them getting too much dried. 
Cold-pits (Dido). —Your briclc-pits, covered with cucumber-frames, 
will answer admirably. A cold-pit is one where no artificial heat of any 
kind is used. The protection the plants receive being given solely by 
coverings. During summer and spring, these pits, when not covered, are 
still a great protection to plants by their walls. Gardeners use many 
simple contrivances for serving the purpose of such pits. There will be 
no danger of your plants damping-off in summer, and if deep sunk you 
must guard against it in winter, by drainage, &c., and sending off the 
surface water. See an article by Mr. Fish in last volume. 
Mandevilla Sdaveolens (Ibid). —This you may train over an iron 
globe trellis; but it will give you more trouble, and less satisfaction, than 
if you planted it out, and trained it over a pilaster or an arch in your 
greenhouse, provided the average temperature in winter was from 40° to 
45°. 
Coal-ashes foe Propagating, Instead of Clear Sharp Sand 
(Ferrer).—We should like better to hear of its success than to try it with 
anything rare and valuable. Charcoal-dust is a very different thing, and 
that we often use; but the cuttings should not remain long in it after 
they are struck. In almost any neighbourhood a little sharp sand might 
be washed out of the drift of the roads, more especially after a heavy 
rain, and with little more trouble than sifting fine coal-ashes, impregnated 
with sulphur. You may be successful, but at present we join your gar¬ 
dener in ominously shaking our heads. 
Calceolaria : Kentish Hero (Ibid). —We have no doubt that a 
little manure water would benefit it, but do not give it too strong. It is 
the real “ Hero” of all calceolarias for bedding, and sustains the high 
character given to it by Messrs. Beaton and Fish. It seems to thrive 
best in a stiff loamy soil. 
Plants in a Window (IF. It. J.).— We can hardly conceive how 
your plants do not open their blossoms. Have they been regularly 
watered? The plate glass and the facing the south might hurt them; 
but you say that you give plenty of air, which ought to neutralise these. 
A thin muslin shade might be tried, or, better still, the plants should be 
set outside. We have an idea that, after all, want of water and want of 
air may be the cause of your disappointment. A short period of bright 
sun, without air or shade, would soon shrivel your cinerarias, more espe¬ 
cially if the soil was dry. 
Roses for Forcing in Pots (A Half-pay Naval Officer).— If you 
had told us what roses did not succeed with you, and when you wanted 
them in flower, we should very likely have better met your case. Many 
of the Bourbon, China, and Tea-scentcd force well in a general way; the 
following are some of the best:— Tea-scented Belle Allemande, Bou- 
gere, Devonicnsis, Eliza Sauvage, Nephitos, Sofrano, Triomphe de 
Luxembourg. China— Abbe Mioland, Cramoisie superieurc, Fabvier, 
Mrs. Bosanquet, Napoleon, Belle de Florence. Bourbons— Armosa, Au¬ 
gustine Margct, Bouquet de Flore, Paul Joseph, Queen, Souvenir de Mal- 
maison, Proserpine. Perpetuals —Crimson Perpetual, Barronne Prevost, 
Dr. Manx, Duchess of Sutherland, Madame Laffav, Mrs. Elliot, I.a Reine, 
William Jesse. Hybrid China and Bourbon —Charles Duval, Coupe de 
Hebe, Fulgens. Gallica — Boula de Nauteuil, Rouge eblouisante. 
Moss— The common Moss, Celina, Unique de Provence. These will, 
however, require a little difference in their treatment. 
Plants Flagging and Rotting Off (Henry). —As you are so suc¬ 
cessful in propagating, you ought to be equally successful in rearing your 
plants after potting. We think your pit a better place for establishing 
such things than a shady part of the greenhouse, though cither ought to 
do. You have no doubt watered and shaded; but you have erred in 
keeping them so close as to have the thermometer up to 70° and 80°. 
This would render your fresh potted things weak, and with shade it would 
prevent their rooting. In such circumstances, when shade is essential 
for a short time, give air at the back and front to keep down the tempera¬ 
ture for such things as myrtles, verbenas, salvias, primulas, fuchsias, Ac. 
We would also recommend you not to sift your soil too fine. Let us 
hear from you again. Read the articles of Messrs. Beaton and Fish on 
propagating. 
Double Flowers — Impregnating Flowers (Mary H.). —These 
matters will meet with attention ere long; the inquiries can scarcely be 
answered shortly enough for this place. 
Verbena Seedlings (Ibid). —These now only two inches high will 
scarcely bloom early enough for producing seeds this season ; but the 
plants or cuttings from them, if worthy, may be kept over the winter. 
Seedsmen generally sell seeds of these plants as well as others. 
Cactus (Ibid). —The keeping hot water in the saucer has little or 
nothing to do with its blooming—that will depend entirely on the treat¬ 
ment it received the previous season, in getting its wood well ripened, and 
then resting the plant by keeping it dry during the winter. With your 
limited convenience, the application of hot water would be time enough 
in April, and then much should not long stand in the saucer. You will 
find something suitable in to-day’s paper. 
D will see that his request has been attended to. 
Swarms Deserting Hive (IF. II. IF.). — We know of no other 
reason for your swarms having three or four times left their hives, except 
it be from their being dressed. Mr. Payne says, in page 42, vol. 2, of 
The Cottage Gardener, “ Let there be no sugared ale nor honey put 
inside the hive, but let it be as clean and dry as possible.” The ridicu¬ 
lous practice of dressing the hive, by drenching it with beer, honey, 
fennel, &c., frequently compels the bees to leave it. In future, use a 
new, clean , and dry hive, and we think your bees will not leave it. 
Tree Onion (E. Sargent).— The directions already given in The 
Cottage Gardener, vol. 3, page 298, are so excellent, that little more 
need be said as to the management. The stalks should be, as you say 
they are, throwing out their proliferous heads of young onions (for which 
reason it is called Allium proliferum). The stalks should be kept tied up, 
or supported with stakes, as their heavy heads are in most cases too 
weighty for their stems. This should be done with some care ; make a 
tie first to the stake, so that the material used do not slip down the stake, 
and then carefully round the stalk of the onion, allowing plenty of room 
for the stem. When full grown, which is readily known by the appear¬ 
ance of the heads of little bulbs, and the yellow colour of the stems, 
toward the last of July or August, then collect the bulbs borne by the 
stems, and dry them as shallots or other kinds of onions are dried for 
storing. We can only recommend you to get some Vegetable Marrow 
plants from some gardener in your neighbourhood, to supply the place of 
those you have lost. 
Bite of the Harvest Bug (Zero).—To prevent its attack, we have 
heard that bathing with a weak solution of sal ammoniac the parts liahle 
to be attacked, and allowing it to dry on, is effectual. Bathing the bitten 
parts with spirit of hartshorn is a speedy cure. 
Cock of Dorking Breed (L. C.).— It is very unlikely that the dealer 
sold you a capon. Keep him and feed him well for a few weeks. If you 
have the same cause for complaint, write to the vendor and ask him to 
exchange him for another. Wash the eyes of your fowls with cold water, 
into which a very little brandy has been added. 
Names of Plants (F. IF. S.).—‘ The leaf of Geranium seems to be a 
variegated variety of the old Rose-scented. (A Subscriber, Bury St. 
Edmunds). —Your plant is Hieracium aurantiactim, or Orange Hawk- 
weed. (F. F.). — Silene quinquevulnera. (J. D. S.). —Your shrubs, 1. 
Ledum latifulium. 2. Rhododendron ferrugineum. It is impossible to 
be certain of names from such bits as you send, but we think the others 
are, I. Dianthus diminutus. 2. Erysinum cheiranthoides. 3. Cuphea 
strigulosa. 4. Cuphea platycentra. 
Bees, Giving Room to (M. J. J.).— Although it has been recom¬ 
mended not to give fresh room after July, yet it is frequently necessary 
to leave some of the capes already on till the end of August, and even 
later. Should brood be seen in them, and this season it will be more 
especially necessary, if your hives are very full, give another small hive 
in the manner directed at page 104, vol. 2. Your bees strewed about are 
evidence that they have been fighting. Do not alter the entrance, and 
have but one. 
Bees (IF. V .).—The comb-knife is made in Sheffield, and sold at 
Rury St. Edmunds ; the price is 3s 6d ; Mr. Payne will purchase one 
and send you on receiving a post-office order for that amount. The 
glass should have been put on first, and when full a small hive placed 
between it and the stock (see page 104, vol. ii., of The Cottage Gar¬ 
dener) ; now it must be a small hive put between. When a small hive 
is full, it should never be removed until another has been placed between 
it and the stock, and allowed to remain a week at least; and not then, 
unless the cells are all sealed up. A small hive cannot be put advan¬ 
tageously on an old hive that has swarmed and is to be transferred. 
Transferring is bad ; put a swarm next year into Taylor’s hive, you will 
gain time by so doing. At page 340, vol ii., the stupified bees were put 
to a strong stock—putting them into an empty hive is quite another 
thing; they may possibly be kept alive by copious autumn feeding. 
Fine honey in small hives fetches in London from Is 2d to Is 4d per lb.; 
in large hives it is not saleable. 
Liquid-Manure for Rhubarb and Asparagus (A Beginner ).— 
Use your house-slops, including those from the water-closet. A house¬ 
hold of five persons produces about 500 gallons per week. It is quite a 
mistake to suppose that this is offensive, even if merely passed through a 
coarse sieve. 
Refuse Hops (Ibid).—' There is no doubt that these would ferment 
and give out heat sufficient for bottom-heat in a pit, but they would 
require moro frequent renewal than tan. 
