' 2 32 THE COTTAGE 
Oily Refuse (B. Smith).— This, which saturates cloths employed for 
j wiping machinery, and is extracted from them by means of soda and 
soap, might be employed as a manure by pouring it over vacant grouml 
just before its being dug, and four gallons to a square yard would not be 
too much probably for cabbages and other strong vegetables. We shall 
be happy to hear from you at all times, 
j Honey-comb (Z.).— This should be sent to London in the glasses, 
1 boxes, or small hives, in which it was worked. The glasses, &c., to be 
! inverted, packed in a case, well surrounded with straw. The small hue 
I should not have been removed by you until the cells had all been sealed ; 
the number of drones indicated the strength of the hive. If the bees 
wanted room, another small hive should have been placed between the 
stock and the one already filling, as directed at page 104 , vol. ii., of The 
Cottage Gardener, and all would have gone on well. We never 
recommend transferring bees from one hive to another. We recommend 
Taylor’s single box hives ; they arc sold by Messrs. Neighbour of London, 
and by Mr. Baxter of Bury St. Edmund’s, a full description of which is 
given in Mr. Taylor’s “Bee-keeper’s Manual,” at page 43 . The zinc 
shades and covers are made and sold by Messrs. Deane and Dray, 119,- 
Bunhill-row, St. Luke’s, London. 
Roses Pegged-down (An Admirer of the Letter and Spirit of the 
Cottage Gardener) .—We do not approve of pegging-down roses, because 
it does not improve the bloom or keep the plants dwarf, as the next 
growth is sure to come up from the bottom, and not from the sides of the 
shoots laid down. We support such branches as are overloaded with 
flowers, and plant so thickly as to cover the beds the first season. 
Camellia Reticulata (Ibid).— It was over-potted, and is only re¬ 
covering from the bad consequences. You can do nothing with it now, to 
improve the nakedness of the shoots. See to the drainage, and grow it on 
until the beginning of the next growing season,—say next April. Then 
you may safely cut in all the shoots to a few joints each, and it will most 
likely make three or four shoots to one ; at any rate you will get rid of the 
nakedness, and have some fine shoots. 
Plants (Sabrina).— Your plants are Eleeagnus parviflora; a pretty 
strong bush, not more than half-hardy; north of London. Buddlea 
Bindley ana —the same, but will do against your south wall, and will soon 
cover it; it is a thirsty plant. Calycanthus maci'ophyllus —a stout hardy 
(?) shrub for the borders. Deutzia straminea —a hardy border shrub, 
but not much to boast of. Jasminum nudiflorum —we have over and 
over again recommended this new winter flowering jasmine ; look in our 
indexes. Daphne Fortuni and Forsythia viridissima —you will also find 
in former pages all that is known of them. Chirita sinensis is a very 
little stove plant, or for a vinery or hot pit. We see by your list that 
these plants were sent to some one by the London Horticultural Society; 
and we mention the fact in order to recommend the Society to write on 
the labels what kind of plants they send, and how to treat them, as they 
very properly do with their seed packets. We are too frequently called 
on to rectify this neglect. 
Grass (A. Bennett). —Grass, by which we understand you to mean 
turf is not easily established on a “ perpendicular ” face—say of a bank, 
but the thing is not impossible. Our own turf “ on the flat” is now as 
brown as a berry, after a six weeks’ drought, with the exception of one 
slight shower; and all our natural grass banks are burnt up, but the grass 
is not killed. No means that we know of could save newly laid turf on 
steep banks under such circumstances, and it is a dangerous experiment 
at any time. 
Woodbine (Ibid). — Your newly planted woodbines were no doubt 
hurt by the late spring frost; you had much better cut them all down 
now like the other two, and water them well to the middle of September, 
and at the end of next October or March cut the young growths down to 
a few joints, and give them a few waterings with liquid-manure next 
summer. 
Artificial Ice (F. F.). —This is produced by placing water in a 
vessel (of metal is best) and plunging it in the following mixture :—five 
pounds muriate of ammonia (sal ammoniac), five pounds nitrate of 
potash (saltpetre), and 16 pounds of water. All the vessels and the 
water should be as cold as possible, and the operation should be con¬ 
ducted in a cellar or other cold place. 
Green Alpine Strawberry (Ibid), —Can any reader supply our cor¬ 
respondent with a few ripe berries of this strawberry for the sake of its 
seed ? 
Kew Gardens (S. T.). —We believe that servants, whether in or out 
of livery, are admitted into these Gardens. 
Cabbages not Hearting (Rustiens). —These being “planted in a 
nook overtopped by high elms ” is a very evident reason why your 
cabbages only produce “large leaves ;” the shade from the elms above, 
and their roots below, would ruin any crop. Cabbages require a rich 
soil and an open quarter. Thanks for your gratifying note. 
Wild Parsley (Ibid). —When this or any other weed has got into 
grass land we know of no better mode of destroying it than to let it grow 
up until the seed is formed, and then to root it up with a dock-spud, and 
to put a pound of salt into the vacancy. 
Indian Seeds (T. E. Q.). —We cannot say what they are, but we shall 
sow them, and if we recognise the seedling we will let you know. 
List of Plants (Devonian). —Lists of the best bedding and border 
herbaceous hardy plants are in preparation, and will be given in the course 
of the autumn. Plants at the prices named can be had of any London 
florist. 
GARDENER, [Jply 11. 
Iris Gbrmanica (Ibid).— Do you not mean the endless varieties of the 
bulbous Irises, Xipliium and Xiphioides ? We dare not commit ourselves 
by giving a selected list of such ephemeral varieties; but as they are as 
easily grown as Crocuses, and nearly as cheap, they are within the reach 
of all, and any one can choose his favourite colours out of the collection. 
Rock-work (R. A. L.).— This is a very difficult undertaking to con¬ 
struct well, and we might refer you to some of the early numbers of The 
Cottage Gardener in which we wrote fully on Rockeries for Alpine 
plants and Ferns, but as your’s is a peculiar situation, and there may be 
others similarly placed, we shall endeavour to shape our reply to meet the 
case in question. The formal rock-work having been “ demolished,” and 
some larger and better stones or pieces of rock procured, information is 
requested as to the mode of forming the work. From the appearance of 
the ground in the lithographic print sent, we judge the situation of the 
artificial rock cannot be better placed than in the place marked on the 
plan. The grand object in all such imitations ought to be to form it as 
like nature as possible. Some parts should be bold and projecting, others 
should be more retired, and gently sloping, the strata should be of one 
character, that is, the veins of rock should all point one way, not crossing 
each other. In fact, observe a natural rock and imitate it as much as 
possible. The great object of an artificial rock is, however, to grow 
Alpine or other suitable plants. It will be necessary to leave wider 
vacancies between the stones than is quite natural, such spaces will soon 
be covered with the plants, and be no disfigurement to the general effect. 
We recommend the general outline of the face of the rock to be in the 
form of a half-moon, broken into irregular shapes ; some erect, bold and 
projecting; some even hanging over; and others of a less abrupt 
character sloping gently upwards, and in this part the principal com¬ 
partments should be left for plants. A gravel walk should surround the 
whole, and, if convenient, it would be a good feature to form a small 
piece of water in front, beyond the walk. In this a few aquatics might be 
cultivated, and would have a pleasing effect, especially if the whole was 
entered upon through a shrubbery, so as to come upon a visitor by 
surprise. The embankment against which the rocks lean may be either 
of good soil or of clay. In the latter case, provision must be made for 
soil to cover the clay for the plants to grow in. The top of the bank 
should be planted with pyramidal shrubs, and a few Swedish Junipers, 
and a Deodar Pine or two, with some Arborvitces, would materially 
heighten the idea of an Alpine region. Care, great care , must be taken 
not to plant any plants that have creeping roots, such for instance as the 
various mints. If these are planted they will soon overrun the more 
stay-at-home plants and destroy them. In large rock-work a few dwarf 
shrubs might be planted with uncommon good effect, such as the .dwarf 
Rhododendrons, Daphnes, Cistus, Helianthemums, and numerous others. 
These, with their pendent branches overhang some point or projection, 
and take off and soften the outline of the work with the happiest effect. 
Sedums and Sempervirums serve to fill up the dry places of the work, and 
never become too large. Any shady parts of the rock will be suitable for 
the growth of Ferns. The walk might pass round one end, and join the 
carriage-drive as you suggest, with great propriety. The end of the rock- 
work should not be seen from any part of the ground, nor from the 
dwelling-house; neither should it be under the shadow of large trees. 
We trust these few hints will be of some use to you, and should be happy 
to give any further information you may require. Pray read what is said 
at page 89, of volume i. 
Small Greenhouse (0. P.).— To heat a small greenhouse use a 
brick flue, run along either in front or under the stage, whichever is most 
convenient. The whole of the flue may run along above ground on 
brick-on-edge supporters, and the return may run upon top of the other; 
so that where the fire-place is there may be the little chimney also. The 
best way to deal with such a brick pit as you speak of (nine feet by six 
feet) would be take out all the old fermenting materials, and make the 
inside thoroughly clean, and form a boarded stage of any height that 
might suit the plants intended to be placed in it for the winter. The 
greenhouse would contain a large number of plants, if the best use be 
made of the room ; and in this house it would be advisable to keep such 
plants as geraniums, and other tender plants, because a little fire could 
be lighted in November and December, to dry off damps, &c., 'whilst the 
dry, airy-bottomed pit will do for myrtles, calceolarias, petunias, and 
many other such-like things. The sooner the flue is put in the better, 
so that the materials may be dry before the winter. 
Tanners’ Bark (Ibid). —This, like other fermenting materials, should 
be turned over three or four times to sweeten, until nearly half decayed, 
before it is put together for heating a pit. But, unless the bark is cheaper 
than dung or leaves, or both, we prefer the latter well worked up and 
mixed together. Tan is the most pleasant to plunge pots into, and gives 
out a lasting steady heat; but the dung and leaves will do this, and be 
most useful when done with for other purposes. 
Many Questions (J. D. S.). —Do not crop your fruit border at all. 
Move raspberries in November, and plant their roots six inches below r 
the surface. All your other queries will be found answered, if you refer 
to our Indexes and Calendars. 
London: Printed by Harry Wooldridge, Winchester High-street, 
in the Parish of Saint Mary Kalendar; and Published by William 
Somerville Orr, at the Office, No. 2, Amen Corner, in the Parish of 
Christ Church, City of London.—July 11th, 1850* 
