THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[August 22. 
324 
prize, is that we should select. It is made by Messrs. Barrett, Exalt, 
and Co., Reading, priced ^ 16 . But to steam potatoes, &c., for a few 
pigs, we should have a large kind of cullender made to fit upon our 
brewing copper, in the way that steamers are made for fitting upon a pot 
for steaming potatoes in the kitchen. 
Strawberry Planting (G .).—You state, upon the authority of Mr. 
Keen, that “ autumn planted runners never produce so good a crop as 
those moved from a nursery bed in March and this is very probable ; 
but certainly summer planted runners, that is, those well established in 
pots, or well rooted in compost near the parent, and planted out at the 
end of July or early in August, beat the spring-planted. We have tried 
both modes, and tiie summer planted were the strongest, and bore well 
the next year. Thanks for your comments ; and we agree that there is 
something valid in a portion of your objection, but there is no hypocrisy 
in the writer. 
Peacii-leaf Blistering (Ibid ).—You say you know of two instances 
where excess of dampness could not possibly be the cause of this dis¬ 
ease ; but we are as sure as if we had seen them that the leaves were on 
luxuriant trees ; and whether the excess of sap in the leaves arises from 
damp soil, or from excessive root action, matters little. The mass of 
gum above the point of junction between a vigorous Elton Cherry and its 
Mahalcb stock arises from the vessels of the latter not being large enough 
to carry down the sap as rapidly as it is elaborated by the leaves. The 
growth of the stock does not keep pace with that of the scion. 
Late Stra-wberries (M. D. Y.).—If, in addition to your Keen's 
Seedlings , you grow the British Queen , Elton, and White Alpine , you 
may have a succession of strawberries from your open borders from June 
to November. 
Heating (C .).—We are sorry that you have been to the expense of a 
Polmaise structure, and are now obliged to abandon it; and it is poor 
comfort to know that you only share the fate common to most who have 
tried it. The surface of hot water pipe you propose to use is not suffi¬ 
ciently large for your greenhouse, and we should recommend it to be six- 
inch pipe instead of four-inch. For your pit, the three-inch pipe will be 
sufficient. Zinc piping would be cheaper at first, but infinitely dearer 
in the end, than cast iron, for it is perpetually out of order. The size of 
the boiler is of no consequence ; the only material consideration being 
what amount of surface is exposed to the fire. A boiler, with a bottom 
exposing three square feet to the fire, will be sufficient for your purpose. 
The difference between the level of the flow and return pipe need not be 
more than twelve inches. I)o not place the return pipe lower than the 
level of the bottom of your boiler. 
Bedding Plants (J. R. R.). —The very lists you request, “for lay¬ 
ing out a garden, in enclosed plan, upon Mr. Beaton’s principles,” have 
lately been copiously supplied by that gentleman himself. It could not 
serve your purpose to reprint these lists, as Mr. Beaton has refused to 
plant gardens on paper. For ourselves we may remark, however, that 
such things as zinias, amaranths , and a standard rose, are entirely 
unsuited to small circles in a regular set of beds like yours ; that is, they 
are too high. To plant the four corner large figures in the same propor¬ 
tion, you would require plants 12 feet high. Read what Mr. Beaton wrote 
about the terrace flower-garden at Kew; that is the right style for your 
garden. 
Room Plants (Sigma). —You will find a detailed answer to-day. 
Salvia Patens and Fulgens (Litherland) .— These, in the ma¬ 
jority of cases, will not stand the winter without protection. We have 
cut them down and covered the bed with ashes and tan, and they have 
come strong. Those left in the beds will flower almost as soon as those 
taken up. The <S. patens, having fine large tubers, may be kept in sand, 
like dahlias, until they begin to spring ; it is best to take up some, and 
make sure. The S. patens is also freely propagated from seed, gathered 
when ripe, and sown in a little heat in spring ; the seedlings pricked out 
into pots, and transplanted in May. Such make nice strong bushy 
plants. 
Mimulus (Ibid). —The most of these are hardy enough in damp situa¬ 
tions, and sheltered, but the finer and rare kinds are generally kept in 
cold pits during winter. They propagate freely from seeds and cuttings; 
the latter mode is the only one to secure the variety true. 
Eccremocarpus Scaber (Ibid). —Instead of sowing now, we should 
decidedly recommend you, as you propose, to take up and pot the old 
plants when done flowering, which may be housed, under a stage in a 
greenhouse, or in a cold pit, and will break strong and flower abundantly 
next season. If, however, your situation is anything dry, the fleshy roots 
will remain in the soil well enough all the winter, with the covering of a 
little moss and ashes to keep off cold and wet, and exclude slugs, which 
are fond of feeding on them in mild weather. 
Pegs for Verbenas (Ibid). —No doubt you may get plenty of these 
from the ferns and they will answer well, but we never peg any. We 
prefer sticking the ground with brushwood, to keep the plants from the 
ground. 
Aloes (W. H .).—These arc succulent evergreen greenhouse plants 
of rather easy culture, provided the pots are well drained, and filled 
with sandy loam, peat, and a little brick rubbish; and during sum¬ 
mer top-dressed with old cow dung, or watered with a solution of a 
cool kind of manure-water. Like other succulents, scarcely any water 
will be required in winter ; and the temperature will answer well if at a 
medium of 40°. They will take no harm when dormant, if frost be ex¬ 
cluded. Cuttings strike freely in loose soil. 
Yucca (Ibid). —With the exception of requiring a richer light soil, 
and more water both in winter and summer, the greenhouse species 
require similar treatment to the aloe. The hardy species—and all the 
more lovely on that account—should have the place where they arc planted j 
well drained, and a rich light compost secured, such as one part of peat, 
two of loam, one of old reduced cowdung, half a part of rough lime ' 
rubbish, and half a part of silver sand. They are propagated by suckers. 
Turner’s Budding Instrument (E.H.T .).—We are not aware of i 
any agent in London for its sale. If you write to “ Mr. John Turner, 
Neepsend, Sheffield,” telling him how many you require, he will send j 
them free by post. 
Fuchsia Cuttings (T. M. IF.).—The stems of these decay whilst ' 
the leaves remain green. The soil, probably, has not enough sand mixed | 
with it, and is kept too moist. 
Transferring Bees (Ibid). —The box into which “ A Country 
Curate” transferred the bees, as described at pages 2/9-80, was empty. | 
You will observe he kept them constantly supplied with food. Mr. Payne I 
promises to write upon transferring in his next calendar. 
Elder Wine (Ibid). —To every gallon of elder-berries, after they are 
picked from the stalks, add two gallons of water, and let them stand for 
two days. Then boil them, and when soft break the fruit, and run tin- 
liquor through a hair sieve. To every gallon of this juice add 3^1bs. of 
sugar, with a bag of spice in the proportion of 1 oz. ginger, ^ oz. cloves, 
and i£oz. allspice, with a very little cinnamon, to every four gallons of 
berries. Let this boil altogether for about twenty minutes, and before 
it is quite cold toast a piece of bread, cover it with yeast, and put it into 
the wine to set it working, which it must be allowed to do for two or three 
days; then skim it clean, and put it into the cask. The wine may be 
bottled, and drank at Christmas, or it will keep for years. Coarse Lisbon 
sugar may be used with safety; but there is so little difference now in 
the price that we recommend the loaf in preference. 
Drift Sand (G.). —The drift sand washed down from the limestone 
hills would improve the staple of the clay lands in your neighbourhood. 
The quantity scarcely could be too large. It should be well incorporated 
by ridging and trenching. 
Vinegar Plant (Rev. P. B.). —We never made vinegar from treacle 
by the aid of the plant, but consider, that if left a little longer than 
required when sugar is used the effect would be the same. Leave the 
vinegar for a few days after the plant is taken out, and it will be found to 
have become quite clear ; at least it does so when loaf sugar is used. 
Himalayah Pumpkins Dropping (W. D.). —These, as well as 
cucumbers and melons, will fall off when about the size of pigeons’ eggs, 
if the water given is abundant, and the temperature low. In cool weather 
give less water. Your Dahlia-leaves have probably been devoured by 
slugs. 
Shoots of Newly-budded Roses (Oxoniensis). —The roses you 
budded last year have made shoots five or six feet long. Do not cut 
them back now, but wait until February; then cut them back so as to 
leave only four or five buds. See page 148 of vol. iii. 
To Render Leather Waterproof (M. D .),—We should try Indian 
rubber dissolved in naptha; but as for this we have no experience either of 
ourselves or others, we give you two recipes which come from almost the 
opposite poles of the earth. North American Recipe —Boil together for half 
an hour one quart of linseed oil, two ounces of rosin, and half an ounce of 
powdered white vitriol; remove the mixture from the fire, and add four 
ounces of spirit of turpentine, and two ounces of very fine and very dry 
oak sawdust. Mix well, and apply when cold with a brush. South 
American Recipe —Dry the leather, apply a coat of tallow, dry this in by 
the fire, and then, by means of a brush, apply a mixture of one pint i 
balsam of copaiba and a quart of naptha. 
Killing Trees with Salt (Philocarpus). —Boring a hole into the 
root or trunk of a tree, and filling it with salt, will not kill it. The only 
mode of killing a tree with salt, is by applying large quantities to the 
soil about the roots, so that they imbibe it in excess with the moisture of 
the earth. It must be in very great excess, or it will only partially kill ; 
it. An excess of any soluble salt will destroy either an animal or a plant. 
Chamomile Culture (IF. PI. IF.).—Plant offsets, or divisions of 
the roots, or sow seed, in February or March. If from seed, when the j 
seedlings are three inches high, thin them to six inches apart, and they 
must remain thus until the following spring, then to be planted out in 
rows at eighteen inches apart from plant to plant. They require no 
other attention than giving water at the time of planting, and frequently 
hoeing afterwards. Offsets are planted at the same distances, and pro¬ 
duce flowers the same year. These are to be gathered just as they open ; 1 
and they are best dried quickly and thoroughly before storing. A light 
dry soil produces flowers most potent in bitter principle. 
Clematis and Passion-flower (H. H .).—You may cut these back 
in the autumn ; October is as good a mouth as any for the operation. 
Names of Plants (H. G. B .).—Your plant is Canna Indica, or Com¬ 
mon Indian Shot. (F. S. B.). —Your’s is Fragaria Indica, or Yellow | 
Indian Strawberry. It is not poisonous, and is closely related to the 
Potentilla. (T. Mercer). —You have named all the specimens correctly i 
except two. 1. Is Tagetes lucida, and 2 ; is Saponaria vaccaria. 
London: Printed by Harry Wooldridge, Winchester High-street, 
in the Parish of Saint Mary Kalendar; and Published by William 
Somerville Oru, at the Office, No. 2, Amen Corner, in the Parish of 
Christ Church, City of London.—August 22nd, 1850. 
