Aprij. 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
] st. By removing supernumerary shoots, to throw 
a much greater amount of light on those portions of 
the tree which it is desirable to retain for the ensu¬ 
ing season. 
2nd. To strengthen for awhile inferior portions 
of the tree, spins, &c., which, if this operation he 
omitted, are but too apt to become overpowered by 
succulent young spray. 
3rd. To control within reasonable limits the root- 
action, which, from the reciprocity which occurs be¬ 
tween the branches and the roots, is apt to become 
immoderate; tending, of course, to an increased 
amount in the succeeding year. 
4th. As a preventive system of pruning, to super¬ 
sede the necessity for much knife-work. 
Disbudding the Peach and Nectarine. — We 
must commence with a caution—no tree suffers more 
from a too hasty disbudding than either the peach or 
nectarine. Indeed, they are exceedingly sensitive to 
any injury: and this may arise from the want of 
solidity in their wood, which is certainly of a very 
porous character; and may contain, in our cold cli¬ 
mate, a much less amount of the cambium, or, as we 
may call it, “life-blood” of vegetation, than our 
hardier fruits. A very severe disbudding performed 
at once, seems to paralyse the whole energies of the 
trees for awhile, or until an increased amount of 
foliage is produced through the extension of the 
growing shoots. Disbudding, therefore, ought in all 
cases to be performed by instalments. We do not 
wish to make it appear a tedious process, but we 
may say, that for those amateurs who are masters of 
their time and enjoy gardening pursuits, it would be 
well to perform a little daily. In commencing to dis¬ 
bud a peach-tree—for the nectarine treatment may be 
merged in this—the first care is, to rub off all those 
coarse-looking young shoots which stand straight 
out from the wall, and look as though they were 
ambitious of becoming individual trees. The sooner 
these are removed the better; nevertheless, when the 
trees are weak such will scarcely be produced. We 
consider that the free production of these is by no 
means to be deprecated; they merely denote a very 
healthy root-action, not only at the present time but 
one of a retrospective character. All they want is 
judicious management and a little adroitness, to turn 
the flow of sap into more legitimate courses or 
channels. 
After slipping such oft' with the finger and thumb, 
the next point is to see if any young spray is grow¬ 
ing behind the old twigs in a position to become dis¬ 
torted or crushed between the branches and the wall. 
These also may be rubbed off; but, be it under¬ 
stood, such operations are not obliged to be com¬ 
pleted in one day : they may be made to extend 
over a whole fortnight. Another caution here be¬ 
comes necessary. If any vacant or naked spaces 
exist on the contiguous parts of the wall, some even 
of those crooked or gross portions must be retained; 
for it is better to have a shoot or branch of this 
character than a barren portion of walling. These 
things being duly carried out, the next thing is to see 
if even, good-looking, and well-placed young shoots 
are not too much crowded. This is sure to be the 
case if the tree be healthy; and here comes the tug 
of war: here it is that much discretion and intelli¬ 
gence of a prospective character is requisite. Our 
practice is to commence at the extremity of every 
shoot or branch, tracing it from thence downwards. 
We first remove every side-shoot of young spray 
which appears likely to enter into competition with 
the leader; and this will in general cause every 
13 
young shoot within four inches of the point to be 
stripped off. No two shoots of young spray should 
grow side by side if possible; they should, at the 
ultimate thinning or disbudding, stand in a regular 
series successively, from the collar to the extremities, 
all over the tree. Still, as before observed, this can¬ 
not be finally accomplished until after the lapse of 
many weeks. 
One point of great importance we here would im¬ 
press on the minds of beginners in the art of disbud¬ 
ding ; and that is, to be sure and reserve all the lowest 
growing young spray all over the tree. This it is 
which prevents trees from becoming what gardeners 
term “naked.” Of course, in fan-training, which is 
the most general mode, (and certainly equal to any 
other, provided the other points of management are 
based on sound principles,) all the branches, by ra¬ 
diating from centres, form a fork like the letter Y. 
Well, then, every young spray which is situated the 
lowest in this letter Y, should be carefully preserved, 
and may, in order to convey a just idea of the ulti¬ 
mate design, be termed a “ breeder,” signifying that 
it is in a position to produce, by pruning, young 
shoots in future seasons to keep up the fabric of the 
tree; for, manage them however skilfully we will, 
blanks will at times occur, and these must be kept 
filled by the produce of these breeders, if we may be 
pardoned the term, for we merely desire to familiarize 
things which have hitherto been too much shrouded 
in mystery. 
Such point being established, nothing remains but 
to continue removing young spray at intervals which 
appear to be getting crowded; and in all these cases 
prefer young spray springing from the upper por¬ 
tion of a branch, to that which springs from the 
under side. We had a system broached some years 
since, termed “ Seymour’s system,” in which no 
shoots were permitted but what sprang from the 
upper portion of the branches. A very good system 
it was, too, the only fault being that it required too 
great a nicety; we will, however, some day review 
all the principal systems. 
It is necessary to pursue a systematic course in 
these operations, and the eye should be directed as a 
matter of priority, in general, to the grosser parts of 
the tree, for those parts become speedily confused if 
not attended to. In the earlier thinnings or disbud- 
dings, it will often happen that shoots present them¬ 
selves of doubtful character. In such cases there is 
no occasion to be over nice; the best way is to pinch 
off the top, they may then be either reserved at the 
final thinning, or stripped away according as the 
altered circumstances of the tree may dictate. 
“ Stopping,” or pinching off the points of some of 
the growing shoots, is another important operation. 
We will offer advice shortly on that head, as it is 
quite distinct in character. R. Errington. 
THE ELOWER-GARDEN. 
Flower-beds in Allotment Gardens. —Near to 
our large towns there are considerable numbers of 
small gardens, the occupiers of which are generally 
artizans, who are confined all day in the factory, work¬ 
shop, or mine. To no class of men are the enjoy¬ 
ments and benefits of a garden more acceptable. 
After 10 or 12 hours’ labour in a close unhealthy 
space, to stroll to his garden, accompanied by his 
family, or such of them as can be spared from house¬ 
hold duties; and when he arrives there, to spend an 
hour or two in getting his garden in order, digging 
vacant ground, planting crops, sowing seeds, water- 
