THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
May 
ties. They also form beautiful drooping objects, if 
budded upon tall standard wild briers. 
Ayrshire Queen —Dark purple-crimson, large and semi-double, 
cup-shaped. Queen of the Belgians —Creamy white, small and 
double, cup-shaped. Ruga— Pale flesh, large and double, globular. 
Evergreen Roses. —These are a valuable section, 
blooming in veiy large clusters of from ten to fifty flow¬ 
ers in each. They retain then’ fine shining foliage 
the most of winter, are free growers and very hardy. 
Like the preceding, they form beautiful weeping 
heads if on tall standards. Prune them so as to leave 
the largest previous year’s shoots, which will flower 
in the extreme ends. 
Felicite perpetuelle —Creamy white, small and double, of a compact 
form. Madame Plantier —Beautiful rose, double and cup shaped. 
Myrianthes —Blush, edged with rose, small and double, cup shaped 
Spectabile —Rosy lilac, large, double and of compact shape. 
Banksian Roses. —Like the last, nearly evergreen, 
requiring a warm wall and dry border. They should 
be trained with long shoots, to bloom on the short 
branches these shoots make, and will then flower 
very freely and beautifully. The older they are the 
more flowers they will produce. Any long strong 
extra shoots they may produce, that are not wanted, 
should be cut away towards the end of June. 
Banksia Alba —White, very sweet, in clusters of small elegant 
flowers, cup-shaped. Banksia Jaune Serin —Yellow, equally fine 
as the ]ast,jwith large flowers, and cup-shaped. Banksia lutea —The 
old yellow, very small and double, and cup-shaped. Banksia Odora- 
tissima —Pure white, extra sweet, small, double, and cup-shaped. 
Hybrid Climbing Roses. —These, on account of 
their decided climbing habit, are separated from their 
proper section. The two first are varieties of 1Rosa 
multiflora hybridized with other lands. The last 
named is a variety of the Musk rose. They require 
pruning the same way as the Boursaults. 
Laura Davoust —A most desirable rose, pink, changing to blush, 
and very double, of a compact shape. Russelliana—Strong grower, 
dark crimson, and double, of a compact form. Madame D’Arbluy — 
White, blooming in large clusters, very showy. 
Rosa Multiflora. ( Many-flowered rose.) —The va¬ 
rieties of Rosa multiflora are rather tender, requiring 
a warm sheltered situation, and a very gentle use of 
the knife in pruning. “ The seven sisters” is a splen¬ 
did variety when it has proper treatment. 
Grevillii (Seven Sisters)—Blush, changing sometimes to a deep 
red, double, and compact form. Elegans— Blush and white, small, 
double, and of a compact shape. Triomphe de Bayeux —White, 
centred, straw-coloured flowers, in corymbs, or flat heads, of bloom. 
All the above are truly climbing roses. If the 
garden is small, select one only out of each section. 
There are a large number of hybrid China summer¬ 
blooming climbers; for autumn-blooming, hybrids of 
Bourbon, Noisette, and Perpetuals, are proper; a list 
of which, as pillar roses, will appear shortly. 
Insects. —In the last number the destruction of 
the red spider was treated of. The next species of 
insect most destructive to the inhabitants of the flower 
garden is the Aphis, or plant louse, usually called 
the green fly. Like the red spider, this insect feeds 
by suction on the juices of the plants it infests. It 
breeds prodigiously fast, so that if you perceive but 
a few one day, in a very short time, if not checked, | 
your roses, calceolarias, verbenas, &c., will be covered 
with them; and, by sucking out the sap from the 
youngest leaves, causing them to contract into de¬ 
formed shapes, turning them yellow, and eventually 
destroying them. This destruction is even more 
rapid than that by the red spider. Happily the green 
fly is more easily destroyed than the red spider, es¬ 
pecially if the means to do so are resorted to in time. 
For bisects of this kind in pits, frames, or plants 
under hand-glasses, there is nothing so effective and 
less troublesome to apply than tobacco smoke. Some of 
our correspondents write that they find this remedy 
too powerful, but if it is judiciously applied no harm 
will ensue. When you intend to fumigate your plants 
choose a still evening, and let your plants be quite dry. 
Place them closer together, and in the clear space 
thus obtained put either an iron pan, or, if you have 
not such a thing, use a hard-burnt garden pot; put 
in it a few red hot cinders that do not smoke, upon 
those cinders put your tobacco, or tobacco paper, 
rather damp. A cloud of smoke will immediately 
rise, and will soon fill the frame As soon as you 
judge it to be well filled with smoke, remove the pan, 
or pot, and carry it to the next frame, if you have more 
than one that requires smoking. Be extremely care¬ 
ful that the tobacco does not break out into a flame, 
as it is that which does the mischief. If you perceive 
a likelihood of blazing out, prevent it with a sprink¬ 
ling of water, very gently applied. Cover up tlie 
frames with mats to keep in the smoke as long as 
possible. The next morning examine the aphides, 
or green flies, and if you find any alive repeat the 
smoking the following evening. This second appli¬ 
cation will most effectually destroy all your enemies. 
There will be none left alive to tell the dreadful tale 
to the next generation. You may now syringe the 
plants pretty severely, to wash away the dead bodies 
of the slain, and the plants will again thrive and 
flourish in perfect health and beauty. 
The green fly on plants out of doors, so situated 
that the smoke of tobacco cannot be so perfectly con¬ 
fined as to destroy them, require a different mode of 
attack, though the same herb furnishes us with a 
remedy against the foe, only it must be applied in a 
different form; that is, as tobacco water. This can 
be had at any tobacco manufactory, or it may be 
made by steeping 4oz. of tobacco in a gallon of water; 
let it stand in the water for a week or so, occasionally 
stirring it with the hand, and squeezing the tobacco 
to bring out the strength. It will then be very pow¬ 
erful, and perhaps will bear an addition of water, 
previously to using, to tbe extent of one half. Apply 
it to standard roses by dipping the infested branches 
in it during a dry evening, and syringing them the 
next morning. For roses on pillars, or against walls, 
use the syringe filled with clear liquor, and applied 
gently all over the shrubs. Verbenas and calceolarias 
in beds are often during the summer months much 
injured, and their beauty deteriorated, by these in¬ 
sects; also roses in beds suffer much from the same 
cause. We know no better remedy than the above 
mentioned tobacco water, applied with a syringe or 
fine-rosed water-pot. These operations may be 
troublesome, but who will grudge the trouble and 
slight expense to rid his flowers of those injurious and 
beauty-marring parasites. Other kinds of insects 
must claim our attention in a future number. 
Planting. —Now the warm weather of spring has 
fairly set in, you must begin to plant out the stores 
of things that you have been preparing so long to 
make the flower garden gay and beautiful. Fuchsias, 
Scarlet Geraniums, Verbenas, Petunias, Dahlias, 
Roses in pots, half hardy annuals, and a host of other 
things described at page 35, vol. ii. Loosen the soil in 
the beds witli a three-pronged fork, breaking and level¬ 
ling it so as to put it in a good condition to receive the 
plants. Choose, if possible, fine dry days lor this 
operation. Set the plants in their places all over the 
bed. Such as are of a trailing nature should be 
allowed room enough to spread; others may be plant¬ 
ed thicker on the ground. When you have set the 
plants in order, commence planting in the centre ol 
