July 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
197 
favoured counties will give them a trial for out-door 
cultivation. We guess our Mend and excellent co¬ 
adjutor, Mr. Beaton, will give these line flowers a 
strong lift shortly, for window and greenhouse pur¬ 
poses. 
Hollyhocks. —This is another fine tribe of autumn 
flowers. If they have been properly managed so far 
in the season, they will now be pushing strongly forth 
their flower stems. Let them have a stake of sufficient 
length and strength driven in pretty close to each 
stem. Let the stakes be made quite firm and per¬ 
fectly upright. The flower stems and the blooms on 
them are, if well grown, of considerable weight, there¬ 
fore they ought to have good stakes, and a strong 
material to tie them with. Now, any kind of twine 
is rather apt to cut the stems; we prefer, in conse¬ 
quence, stout broad strands of bass matting, as not 
being so liable to injure the stems during the stormy 
winds of the equinox. This operation of tieing ought 
to be commenced early, and followed up regularly till 
the hollyhocks have attained their highest altitude, or 
at least till they have reached the top of the stakes. 
We do not think it needful nor yet desirable to have 
the stakes so tall as the plants will grow. If they are 
well secured three-fourths of their height, it will be 
amply sufficient. 
The Lawn. —After such dry hot weather as we 
have had lately, the grass-plots will, especially if 
newly-laid, suffer for want of moisture. If you have 
plenty of water and plenty of time, let that nourish¬ 
ing element be poured upon the lawn freely. Should 
any cracks appear, fill them up with some finely-sifted 
soil. Roll previously to mowing—it will save the edge 
of the scythe or of the mowing machine. Mow early, 
if the scythe is used, before the dew evaporates, the 
grass being then more tender, and consequently more | 
easy to mow; besides, the labour is not so much felt | 
by the operator in the cool morning air. The sound 
of the scythe should never, in well-managed gardens, ; 
be heard after breakfast time. Einish the mowing, 
then, before that pleasant meal, and return refreshed. 
Then sweep the grass up, and convey it away either to 
line a hotbed or to decay amongst soil in the com¬ 
post-yard. Trim the edges of the walks and flower¬ 
beds, and remove all the rubbish into the compost- 
yard. When this is completed, the flowers neatly 
tied up, and the beds and borders hoed and raked, your 
garden will have that freshness and trim appearance 
so pleasing to the well-ordered mind. 
FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
Auriculas and Polyanthuses. —Continue to gather 
the seeds in the manner directed in the last number. 
As soon as they are all gathered, pot the seed-bearing 
plants, and jtlace them among the rest. Water regu¬ 
larly in dry weather. You will find the polyanthus, 
and its kindred family, the double primroses, much 
benefitted by having saucers put under each pot. 'The 
water that runs through the soil may be allowed, in dry 
weather, to remain in them till it dries up partly by 
evaporation, thus supplying moisture to the air about 
the plants, and partly by being taken up as food by 
the roots of the plants. The only precaution, to pre¬ 
vent possible injury to the roots, will be to turn the 
saucers in very continued wet weather, By using 
these pans, or feeders, or saucers (they are called by 
all these names), you will prevent, in a great measure, 
the attacks of that (to these plants more especially) 
destructive insect, the red spider. 
Carnations and Picotees. —Stir up the soil on 
the surface of the pots, and remove part away, re¬ 
placing it with fresh compost. Continue to propa¬ 
gate by layering the shoots as soon as they are long 
enough for that purpose. By doing this at an early 
season, the layers make roots early, and can be taken 
oft’ and potted so as to be strong, well-established 
plants early in autumn, a matter of no small import¬ 
ance to enable them to pass through the winter in 
good health, and thus be ready to start with renewed 
vigour to grow finely in the spring, and finally to 
produce their beautiful flowers at the proper season 
in the highest possible perfection. The other need¬ 
ful operations are to attend to the tieing them se¬ 
curely to the stakes, and to take care that the ties 
do not injure the stems; also to thin the buds freely. 
If the stem is weak, leave only one bud upon it; if 
strong, three may be allowed. Nothing is gained by 
leaving more, especially if you want them for exhi¬ 
bition purposes. The reel spider sometimes attacks 
the leaves, causing them to turn yellow. As soon 
as you observe this, syringe them freely every even¬ 
ing until you banish the insect from your plants. 
The green fig is another enemy to contend with. 
The best and most effectual destructive lor them is 
to crush them with the finger, and then wash the 
stems and buds with a nice soft sponge. Lastly, at¬ 
tend to the watering. Let them have plenty during 
dry weather. If your plants are weak, use weak 
manure-water once every ten days. This will not 
only strengthen the plants, but also heighten the co¬ 
lours ; to preserve which, shade whenever the sun 
shines. 
Dahlias. —If these plants have been well nursed, 
they will now be growing away freely. As they, 
like the chrysanthemums, are gross feeders, they will 
require in such hot weather as has prevailed lately 
abundance of water. A coating of rotten dung 
spread about each plant will be highly beneficial. 
Keep them well tied in to the stake. Thin the 
flower-buds, and cut off any undergrown straggling 
shoots that may deform or injure the general appear¬ 
ance of the plants. Hoe and rake frequently to keep 
the surface fresh. T. Appleby. 
GREENHOUSE AND WINDOW 
GARDENING. 
China Azaleas that have been kept close since 
they ceased flowering will have their young wood 
well ripened, and, in most cases, their flower buds 
are now formed. It requires a long practice to know 
for certainty when these have “ set their flower 
buds,” as the gardeners say, whereas any one can 
tell when the camellia is set for flower. The best 
criterion for ascertaining the existence of the aza¬ 
lea’s flower buds is when the points of the young 
wood made this season feel hard between the fore¬ 
finger and thumb; When that is the case, but not 
sooner, the plants* or rather the pits or other places 
where they are now growing, may be kept more dry 
and airy. By-and-by you will find, by feeling them 
gently, that the points of the young wood are become 
knotty and full, hard and prominent, and generally 
this stage is arrived at, even with the latest, by the 
end of July; while others, that were gently forced 
into bloom last February and March, had their 
growth done, and their flower buds well formed, 
before the end of May—May and June being the 
proper time to force these azaleas, as well as the 
camellias; and, moreover, there is not a shade of 
difference in the general management of the two 
families. The azalea will stand more heat to force 
