THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
July 
221 
winter, replanting out in the border in spring, will not prevent their 
flowering, provided they are kept dry through winter. 
Plants for Shaded Eockwork (W. H., Islington).—Ferns 
and periwinkle, the Vinca hnrbacea, with a plant of Irish ivy, are 
the likeliest plants to grow under your pear-tree, especially if the 
branches of the tree he thinned out freely, and the plants watered 
frequently in dry weather. You may obtain the ferns at a reasonable 
rate of Mr. Appleby. His address is on the title-page. 
Gladioli (Ibid). —You say you have treated them as directed by 
Mr. Beaton, but they do not show signs of flowering, yet are growing 
strong both in stock and leaf. They may flower yet, especially if 
they are G. ftoribundus, or G. psittacinus. Should they not flower, 
you may comfort yourself that they will make large strong bulbs, 
that will be sure to flower extra well next year. 
Climbing Roses (Rev. H. L. Jenner). —The climbing roses you 
planted last May you have watered freely, both with liquid manure 
and clear water. The soil in which they are planted is very light and 
porous. Notwithstanding your care, the roses do not make shoots. 
In such a soil, and in such a hot season as we have had, it is fortu¬ 
nate that they are alive. Stir the soil round the shrubs, and mulch 
with short littery dung, and continue the watering. They will push 
forth shoots yet. 
Wire-worms (Ibid). — These having destroyed your early horn 
carrots, the remainder will do no good ; pull them up, fork over the 
ground, and search minutely for all the wire-worms and destroy them. 
If, as we suspect, your garden is an old one, it is unfit for carrots. 
Spirit of tar has been recommended as a destiuetive to the vermin ; 
you might try it next year on one piece of ground, at the rate of a 
quarter of a pint to every square yard ; or trench the ground as deep 
as possible, turning the top spit, every morsel of it, to the bottom of 
the trench. l)o this about a month before you sow the carrots ; this 
buries the insects, and, of course, prevents their attack. We once 
succeeded in getting a good crop of carrots by covering the space 
intended for them with a coating of fowls’ dung in autumn, allowing 
the winter rains to wash in its soluble constituents. In the spring all 
that remained was raked off, the ground forked over, and the seed 
sown. The carrots came up freely, were as freely thinned, and in 
autumn were taken up, and proved quite clean and fine. You can 
try this way also. 
Bind-weed (Ibid). —You have in your garden that bad weed, the 
Convolvulus arvensis, or, as it is commonly called, the corn-bind, or 
bind-weed. We can only comfort you by telling you it is next to the 
coltsfoot, the most difficult of all weeds to eradicate. It is ten timies 
worse than the Triticum repens, or quick-grass, you mention. There 
is no way of thoroughly extirpating it but by trenching the ground 
in every part, and carefully picking out every morsel of its roots, and 
this should be repeated every year, till the ground is cleared of them. 
You may keep it down by frequently hoeing the surface, but the roots 
will not die, but spring up again on the least neglect in any corner. 
We say, then, trench and pick them out most perseveringly. You 
will have this consolation, that the soil in your garden will be greatly 
benefitted by the operation. 
CALENDAR FOR AUGUST. 
GREENHOUSE. 
Aloes, propagate by slips, suckers, &c., b. Budding, finish, b. 
Dress every plant as occasion offers. Eartii, give to Oranges, 
the. ; stir the surface frequently. Oranges, Lemons, &c., bud, b. 
Peat-mould plants, especially heaths, keep assiduously supplied 
with water. Potted Plants, except the more tender, and unless 
the season is unusually ungenial, continue outside the house until the 
end of the month. Seedlings, transplant singly, Shifting into 
larger pots, finish, hut few plants require potting after this time, ex¬ 
cept seedlings. Succulent Plants, as Aloes, &c., propagate by 
slips, fire., b. Water in dry Weather, but as the growing season 
declines much less will suffice. Pelargoniums headed down early 
in the last month will now be ready for repotting. Climbers ; train 
and trim neatly those which run along the rafters, otherwise they will 
obstruct the light too much in the autuffih and winter. Thunbergia 
seeds gather as they become ripe. Many different colours of Thun¬ 
bergia Alata may be thus obtained. Seeds gather as they ripen, and 
label them. D. Beaton. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
Anemones, sow. Annuals, stick; water; clear from decayed 
leaves, &c. Auriculas, shift into fresh earth; water; keep in the 
shade; seedlings prick out; sow. Beds, in which bulbous flowers 
have grown, fill with annuals from pots, to flower through autumn. 
Biennial seedlings, transplant. BuLROUS-rooted flower-seeds, to 
obtain varieties, sow. Bulbous roots, remove or transplant; re¬ 
move and plant offsets ; (Autumn flowering), plant. Carnation 
layers cut from old root and plant; water frequently ; layering may 
still be done, b.; card the flowers and shade from sun. Dahlias, 
stake; thin the flowers. Daisies propagate; put in cuttings of 
new kinds ; keep them in the cutting pots through winter. Double- 
blossomed perennials with fibrous roots, propagate by division, e. 
Dress borders as required. Edgings of box, &c., clip in wet wea¬ 
ther. Evergreens maybe moved, e., if wet weather; plant cut¬ 
tings. Grass, mow and roll weekly. Grass Seeds may be sown, 
e. Gravel, weed and roll weekly. Hedges, clip in moist weather, 
except laurel and holly hedges. Heliotropes, put in cuttings 
under glass in a gentle heat, b. Mignonette sow in frame. Pe¬ 
largoniums propagate by cuttings, b. Perennials, in pots and 
elsewhere, will require water almost daily ; break down flower-stalks 
as they finish blooming; seedlings transplant. Pipings of Pinks 
may be planted out. Polyanthuses, sow. Ponds keep clear of 
green scum. Potted Annuals will require water daily in dry wea¬ 
ther. Ranunculuses, sow ; plantin pots to bloom in November. 
Roses, finish budding; prune in strong straggling shoots; cuttings 
of China and Tea-scented varieties plant underhand-glasses. Seeds, 
gather as they ripen. Even those of Heliotropes and Verbenas will 
frequently he found to be fertile. Shrubbery, cut off the bunches 
of seeds of Laburnums ; the seeds are poisonous ; also cut off the 
seeds of Lilacs. Sowings, to obtain varieties, had better be done in 
boxes. Ten-week stock, sow', b. Tulips, and other bulbous-rooted 
flower-seed, sow. Turf may be laid, e. Verbenas, put in cuttings 
of now kinds, e. Watering will be required generally in dry wea¬ 
ther. Weeding, generally attend to. Cuttings of Penstemons, 
Snapdragons, double Lychnis, and other herbaceous plants, will yet 
succeed, if planted and shaded under hand-glasses. Of the China 
Asters, mark the finest, and save for seed. T. Atpleby. 
ORCHARD. 
Budding, finish and remove bandages from that done three weeks 
since. Remove waste shoots from stocks, especially below the bud. 
Blight (American), apply the brush once more. Aphides : still 
try to extirpate them in Peaches, Plums, the. Red Spider : if this 
appears, dust flowers of sulphur on the back of the leaves. Coccus, 
or scaly insect: if this appears, syringe repeatedly with soap-suds. 
Figs, continue to disbud, and commence stopping rambling shoots. 
Vines, follow up stopping of laterals, and keep them thin. Apricots, 
stop gross leaders, and keep down breast shoots by pinching. 
Peaches and Nectarines, stop all gross shoots, and keep under 
breast wood by the same process; where too thick, remove shoots 
altogether. Pears, dub all foreright spray, cutting one half away; 
first selecting and tying down all short-jointed and brown-looking 
wood. Protect fruit with nets, &c. Wasps, destroy nests. Late 
Strawberries, water well. Alpines, reduce runners from, and 
place slates or tiles beneath. Strawberries, make plantations of 
early and strong runners. Raspberries (double-bearing), remove 
all barren shoots from, and carefully train those in blossom. Toma¬ 
toes, thin, stop, and train. Commence and complete, as soon as 
possible, all Nailing and Training, whether on walls, pales, or 
espalier trellises. R. Errington. 
PLANT STOVE, AND FORCING DEPARTMENT. 
As long as the temperature will permit, admit Air day and night. 
Allow the Temperature to range, with sun beat, from 63° to 85°; 
and during night from 55° to 65°. Strike, or pot off if already 
struck, Succulent and Soft-wooded plants, that they may be 
established before winter. Do not give the magical stop any more 
to the young shoots of plants intended to bloom in winter and 
spring, but harden them by exposure to air and light. Examine, 
shift sparingly, and re-arrange Orchids ; placing in separate groups 
those in flower, those that have finished their growth, and those still 
growing—giving shade and air to the first, air and more light to the 
second, and moisture and heat to the third. Attend to Creepers on 
trellises, and growing up rafters ; bestow upon them enough of art 
to convey the idea of dressed elegance, anil not so much as would 
conjure up impressions of the stiff and the formal. Give the last 
shifting, early in the month, to those Pines intended for early 
fruiting next season. Let others follow in succession. Clear early 
ripe Grapes from all diseased and mouldy berries ; admit abundance 
of air. Keep down, or rather keep aumy, the Red Spider, by 
lighting a fire in dull days, and brushing the pipes or flues with a 
thin mixture of sulphur and water. Thin freely the late crops; and 
water the Vines in dry weather. Give to Peach-houses, from 
which the fruit has been gathered, copious syringing ; and keep the 
houses rather close, to raise their temperature by sun heat, that the 
wood may be hardened and ripened before ultimate exposure by 
removing the sashes. Stop and thin shoots in late houses. Regulate 
the shoots, and set the fruit on Melon plants. Strike cuttings, or 
sow seeds, of Cucumuers intended for a late supply. Encourage 
the growth of all Plants in Pots intended for forcing, and place 
those fully matured by the back of a north wall. Lay Straw¬ 
berries in small pots, to he shifted into larger. Turn Bark Beds. 
Paint ; wash ; clear out furnaces ; empty and rinse out boilers; 
and have every thing in readiness for a cold weather campaign. 
’ R. Fisn. 
KITCHEN-GARDEN. 
Alexanders, sow. Angelica, sow. Aromatic Het-bs may 
still be planted ; gather for drying and distilling. Artichokes, 
break down, &c. Asparagus-beds, weed. Balm, plant; gather 
for drying. Beans, plant, b. Borage, sow. Borecole, plant. 
Brocoli, plant, b. Cabbages, plant out; sow’, b. Cardoons, 
earth up. Carrots, sow, b. Cauliflowers, plant ; sow, e. 
Celeriac, earth up. Celery, prick out; plant. Chervil, sow. 
Colew'orts, sow for, b. ; plant. Corn Salad, sow. Cress 
(American), sow. Cucumbers, plant or sow, b. Dill is fit for 
gathering. Eartiiing-up, attend to. Endive, plant ; sow, b.; 
blanch, &c., advancing crops. Fennel, sow and plant. FiNOcnio, 
earth up. Garlic, take up. Hoeing, attend to. Kidney Beans, 
sow, b. Leeks, plant, b. Lettuces, sow, for standing through 
the winter; plant out. Melons, attend to. Mint, gather for 
drying. Musiiroom-eeds, make ; attend to. Nasturtium 
Berries, gather. Onions, sow, b. and e. ; lay down tops. Pars¬ 
ley, sow, b. Peas, sow, b. Potatoes, take up as their stems 
decay ; store them in a shed, between layers of dry earth. Ead- 
isiies, sow; gather pods for pickling. Rape (edible rooted), sow. 
Rociiambole, take up. Savoys, plant, b. Seeds, gather as 
ripe. Shallots, take up. Small Salading, sow. Spinach, 
sow. Stir between plants in row's, the. Turnips, of the stone 
kind, sow, b. ; thin, &c. Turnip-Cabbage, plant. Weeding and 
Watering, attend to. Wormwood, plant, b. 
London : Printed by Harry Wooldridge, 14/ Strand, in the 
Parish of Saint Mary-le-Strand; and Winchester, High-street, in 
the Parish of St. Mary Ivalendar; and Published by William 
Somerville Oru, at the Office, 117, Strand, in the Parish of 
Saint Mary-lc-Strand, London.—July 26th, 1849. 
