248 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
August 
should be half its volume above the ordinary ground level. Half a 
yard will be the most eligible depth, and this should be composed in 
the main of maiden soil from any rest land, of a free, loamy character ; 
using as much turfy material as can be got, but not a particle of ma¬ 
nure ; the latter will be wisely applied in the character of top dress¬ 
ing in dry periods. There is no necessity to make the border wider 
than seven feet on account of the trees. Pray provide a coping, pro¬ 
jecting eight or ten inches, and some canvas or other covering. With 
these provisions, you may, we are assured, bid defiance to the frosts or 
storms of the Lothians. 
Bees (Apis, Southport ).—A hive 11 inches square and nine inches 
deep will be large enough to hold, during the winter, all the bees that 
are now in it, and an additional small hive. You should take the 
honey from the small hive as soon as you see the combs are sealed up 
(see p. 105 of this volume). If your bees are now fighting, they arc 
probably killing the drones, a contest which usually makes them irri¬ 
table. 
Errors. —At p. 209 , col. 2, “Finish layering as soon as possible,” 
in line 23 from top, should be added to line 22, as it relates to carna¬ 
tions and picotees. At p.222, col. 2, line 39, for “ five stamens” 
read “fivefertile anthers.” But this is not invariable in the erodium. 
See what Mr. Beaton says to-day on the subject of its characters. At 
p. 212, col. 2, line 7 from top, for “ below” read “ above.” 
Rochea falcata ( Constant Subscriber) .—If you are acquainted 
with the mode of managing the common cactus, the same treatment 
will suit the Rochea falcata, with this difference, that the latter is best 
increased from offsets, which are produced freely by every flowering 
plant. Mr. Beaton lately promised an article on the crassulas, to 
which Rochea is allied, and no doubt he will include it as a branch of 
the subject. 
Geranium Cuttings (An Amateur). —These are best taken as 
soon after the plants flowering as they can be obtained. With regard 
to your reference to Dr. Lindley’s “Theory of Horticulture,” never 
mind theories untested by practice, and the case you refer to is in 
point. It is best not to put moss or anything else in the space be¬ 
tween the two pots when double-potting is adopted. Anything of the 
sort so put induces the roots to get out between the two pots, and thus 
the remedy against scorching the roots is instrumental to their de¬ 
struction. 
Plants near Glass (Ibid). —Keeping plants “well up to the 
glass” does often prove detrimental to their vigour and growth in the 
lieighthof summer. When Mr. Macintosh says that it is essential to 
have them as close as possible, he means, no doubt, during winter. 
Small plants, and often large ones too, get scorched when placed on 
shelves near the glass at any time from May to September, and are 
benefitted by being so placed during the other months of the year. 
Roses done Flowering (W. P.L.). —By all means cut off the 
flower stems of your roses of all kinds down to the first strong wood 
bud. Perpetuals will flower all the stronger for it, and so will China 
Noisettes and Bourbons. Gallicas, Moss, and Provence roses, though 
not benefitted particularly by this operation, will look all the neater 
for it, and for that alone it is worth while to do it. 
Sowing Polyanthus and Geranium Seed (One who has a nook 
in her Father’s Garden). —Every family ought to have such nook 
cultivators. The best time of the year to sow the polyanthus is the 
spring, about the month of April. You may either sow it in a warm 
border in light earth, and thinly covered with the same, or in a box 
of such a size as you may have seeds sufficient for. When the seed¬ 
lings are up, and have grown so as to have four or five] leaves, trans¬ 
plant them into a shady border, and there they may remain till they 
flower. Geranium seed may be sown now, provided you have a green¬ 
house to winter the plants in ; if not, delay sowing till spring. The 
seedlings require a little heat to bring them up. Sow them in shallow 
pots in light soil, cover the seed thinly, and transplant the seedlings 
four in a pot four inches wide almost as soon as they come up. Keep 
them in those pots throughout winter, then transplant them again 
singly into three-inch pots, repotting them twice into larger pots, 
and then let them flower. If you sow in the spring, treat them in a 
similar manner as to the transplanting, but repot them as soon as you 
see the roots come through the earth to the sides of the pots. 
Cactus turned Brown (A Novice).— 1 The leaves are brown and 
dying, except about an inch of one, which remains green, and from 
this a young shoot has been thrown out. Cut down all to below the 
brown part, but do not thus serve the green one. Should those cut 
down produce others, still the plants will always look shabby unless 
you cut them down. Immediately they are out of bloom is the right 
time to prune all cacti. 
Tree Mignonette (Ibid). —Stop all the side shoots, as directed 
at p. 38, but preserve the leading shoot untouched. 
Diseased Cucumbers (S.). —Your bed seems to have been well 
prepared, with the exception that the soil, which, being of equal parts 
maiden loam, decayed leaves, and rotten manure, is too rich. The 
leaves of the plants turn yellow, their stems canker and bleed, but little 
fruit sets, and that which does exudes a gummy matter that hardens 
on its surface ; but the chief of the fruit are abortions, such at that 
you enclosed, the blossom end of which is yellow, shrunk, and ulcer¬ 
ated. We believe all this mischief arises from the heat of the bed 
having declined, and too much water being given. You left off giving 
water as soon as you saw the plants were diseased, but that was too 
late—the mischief had been done. No three contingencies could 
occur at one time to cucumber plants more certain of producing 
disease than a rich stimulating soil, with too low a temperature aiid 
too much water. 
Striking Cuttings in Phials (IF. P., Islington ).—The ends 
of the cuttings may not only touch the mould in the phials, and 
not merely be suspended in the water over it, but the mould may 
cover a bud of the cutting. When the roots are an inch long, the 
cuttings may be removed. Water without mould will do. 
Asparagus Beds (T. K. B .).—At page 113 of our first volume, 
Mr. Barnes gives very full directions how the soil should be prepared 
in autumn for planting in the following spring. As your soil is heavy, 
we recommend you to incorporate with it as much soot as you can 
procure, say a bushel to two square yards, besides the other manure. 
If you cannot obtain soot, use as much of fine coal ashes. The giant 
asparagus is the best variety. 
Black Currant Plantation (Ibid). —Pare off the turf from the 
piece of grass land on which you intend to plant, put it in a heap and 
turn it frequently ; it will make capital soil for potting and other pur¬ 
poses. Trench your ground all over in the autumn, and plant at the 
end of October. Decayed turf and leaf mould are capital manures 
for the kitchen-garden. 
Habrothamnus fasciculatus (Ibid). —This, we think, will 
grow on your south wall, though in an exposed part of Kent, es¬ 
pecially if the border be well drained. Remember the great point is 
for the plant to ripen its wood well before the winter arrives. 
Hot-beds (J. At., Pentonvitle ).—You will find some directions 
about constructing these in our paper to-day. The best time for 
raising geraniums and fuchsias from cuttings is directly after they 
have done blooming. The latter may be raised from leaves (see di¬ 
rections, vol. i., p. 221). Reddening your pots with ochre will not 
injure the plants in them. 
Buds (G. H.).- —A leaf-bud is long, thin, and smaller than ablos- 
som-bud. The former should be used in budding. Horse-radish 
planting is fully described at pp. 58 and 248 of our first volume. 
Poultry (C. M. A.). —Your communication is very acceptable. 
Will you oblige us with your real address, not for publication, but 
because we wish to communicate with you by letter. 
Melons not Setting (IF. R.). —Take a male blossom, cut off 
the flower-leaf or petal, and rub its central parts or anthers gently on 
the central part or stigma of the female blossom to be set. Keep up 
the bottom heat of your bed. 
Heating Small Greenhouse (H. Savage). — One so small as 
eight feet long and live feet wide may have the frost kept out of it as 
you propose, by a small tin case heated by a jet of gas, with a flow 
and return pipe, also of tin, and two inches in diameter, running 
round the house, or even along the front, near the floor. The jet of 
gas must burn entirely outside the house, for not only is its consump¬ 
tion of oxygen gas objectionable, but the gases it produces when 
burnt are highly injurious to plants. Answers to your other questions 
next week. 
Mushroom Spawn (S. Smith).— This is the name given to the 
kind of under-ground roots, having a white fibrous appearance, by 
which the mushroom is propagated. The other question is not within 
our province, but may be noticed some day in a treatise on pig¬ 
keeping. 
Melons Diseased (A Village Clergyman). —Your case resembles 
that of the diseased cucumbers above replied to. The leaves, stalks, 
and stems rot—the ulcers beginning at the joints. You have too 
little heat, we think ; and, if this be so, then the richer the soil, and 
the more water you give, the more rapid will be the destruction. 
If we knew the daily temperature within the frame, and six inches 
below the surface of the soil, we could be more decisive in our 
opinion. 
Potatoes for Seed (A Subscriber, Helston). —Let them remain 
in the ground until the stems are quite yellow, then take them up, 
and store them in a dry shed in alternate layers with earth. Green¬ 
ing them, by exposure to the sun and weather, is decidedly an 
unnatural injurious course to pursue. 
Grapes Dropping in a Vinery (G. Wyatt).—The roots of your 
vines are probably too deep and too dry. Remove some of the soil 
all round from the stem to the distance of six feet; put some long 
dung or mulch into the hole thus made ; give a good soaking of 
water over the mulch—two or three bucketfuls ; and then return on 
to the mulch only a part of the earth removed. Cut out all the dis¬ 
coloured berries—they will decay and infect the others. 
Grapes Shanking (Rev. IF. D. Newton).— Considerable doubt 
is entertained as to the cause of this disease, but we are of opinion 
that it is occasioned in all instances from the w'ant of root-action pro¬ 
portionate to the leaf-action. This usually arises from the roots 
being kept in a climate quite differing from that in which the leaves 
are (kept. The roots of your vine are probably much colder and 
drier than the leaves, for you use “a good deal of water in the 
house.” Try the same remedy as recommended in our answer next 
preceding this. Use your mulch fermenting and warm, and apply 
tepid water. Remove the decayed grapes as fast as they appear, use 
less water in your house, and give air freely. 
Brocoli Buttoning (A. A. Clericus). —Your broeoli sown on 
the 19th of June, now running prematurely to heads, or buttoning, 
as gardeners term it, was occasioned by your growing the plants in 
the seed-bed under some unfavourable circumstances. You probably 
did not prick-out the seedlings, and kept them too dry—circum- 
stances checking the formation of roots, and consequently promoting 
the formation of the flower, or seed-producing parts. This is a con¬ 
sequence influencing all vegetables; if you check the development of 
the roots you hasten that of the flowers. 
Name of Plant (E. G. R.). —Yours is Leycesteria formosa, a 
native of Nepal, and of the easiest culture; it can be multiplied 
either by cuttings, layers, or seeds. The first plant we had of it has 
given abundance of plants, sowing itself all over the plantation ; and 
the plants, whether young or old, all stand our winters well at Win¬ 
chester, and thrive under the drip of other trees. It is said to form a 
good underwood or shelter for game. 
London: Printed by Harry Wooldridge, 147, Strand, in the 
Parish of Saint Mary-le-Strand ; and Winchester High-street, in 
the Parish of St. Mary Kalendar; and Published by William 
Somerville Orr, at the Office, 147, Strand, in the Parish of 
Saint Mary-le-Strand, London.—August 9th, 1849. 
