332 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
September 
ance, that from half a yard to two feet in depth of a 
sound soil is better by far than any greater depth. 
Tap roots should by all means be removed; but let 
it be understood that, for the removal of such powerful 
agents in obtaining food for the tree, an equivalent 
in degree must be provided. We name this, by the 
way. in order to prepare the minds of those who are 
merely in the hornbook of gardening, to expect that 
such severe operations cannot be practised with im¬ 
punity ; in fact, that something more than a merely 
mechanical meddling will be necessary: a little of 
what is termed “ mind” must both precede and follow 
the operation. 
We will suppose, then, a trench or cutting ex¬ 
cavated to the depth alluded to, and of a spade’s 
width; every root, of course, in the line of trench 
cut away: these are severe measures; but fear not— 
such are necessary at times as well in the vegetable 
as the animal kingdom. After thus proceeding, a 
fork or some pointed tool should be used to dislodge 
a little soil from the surface of the cutting on the side 
next the tree, in order that the mangled points may be 
pruned back. This becomes expedient in all cases 
of root mutilation by blunt tools, because no one can 
tell but that a gangrenous character may be superin¬ 
duced, especially in roots of some size (and, of course, 
age), such being slow in healing in proportion to their 
age. Let every point be pruned back with a sharp 
knife an inch or two, cutting, where possible, back to 
where a rootlet or bunch of rootlets branch from the 
root in question. 
When the case of grossness is excessive, we have 
sometimes made a practice of leaving the trench or 
excavation empty for many weeks; indeed, in the case 
of strong or adhesive soil, we have at times left it open 
until Mayor June, or, in other words, until the drought 
of the spring has penetrated the mass. The practice, 
however, is an unsightly one, and, as there is no ab¬ 
solute necessity for it, we lay no particular stress on 
this proceeding. 
In filling up the excavation, advantage should at 
all times be taken of introducing maiden or fresh soil; 
and, whenever such materials can be commanded, we 
advise using rough turfy soil of a loamy or sound 
character. Sound is, indeed, a somewhat indefinite 
term, and we dare not digress so far here as to enter 
into a definition of it. We intend shortly to enter into 
the question of loams and other soils, seizing the 
period for that purpose when mere calendarial routine 
is at its lowest point. The economical improvement 
of the staple of soils is a question affecting, more or 
less, most of our readers. Much has been written 
about manures, but little about mechanical texture, 
the very key-stone of the arch. 
If loamy soil cannot be obtained, it is easy to 
exchange the excavated soil for any fresh ordinary 
garden soil at hand; and, indeed, the mere kitchen- 
vegetable bed adjoining, if not too rich in manures, 
may be substituted. YVhilst speaking of manures, 
we may observe that none of any kind may be intro¬ 
duced amongst the soil in filling the excavation: 
some persons recommend and practise it; we, how¬ 
ever, do not like “blowing hot and cold;” we consider 
the process inconsistent, especially since any amount 
of vigour may be imparted by surface dressings or by 
liquid manure. 
In concluding this paper, we may remark that it is 
not material that all the sides of a tree should be 
root pruned equally: either one, two, three, or the 
whole may be dealt with accordingly as they can be 
got at. Nevertheless, the smaller the number of sides 
pruned the more severe the operation must be. We, 
of course, prefer cutting all round equally (not but 
that the cutting of any one root on any given side, 
equally or nearly so, affects the whole system of the 
tree); but cutting all round is a more satisfactory 
mode, as throwing the volume of roots into a deter¬ 
minate form, and, of course, placing them henceforth 
under a more definite control. Another argument 
may be adduced in its favour. In cutting all round 
there is less occasion for such very severe mutilations; 
for, be it understood, that although root pruning is 
of great use under circumstances of over-luxuriance, 
we must still class it as a necessary evil. 
In a subsequent paper we will advert to the dif¬ 
ferent kinds of fruit-trees—for all must not be cut 
alike—and giving rules for cutting as to distance ; 
such being regulated by the amount of over-luxuriance, 
the age of the tree, the character of the soil, &c., all 
of which exercise important influences. 
R. Errington. 
THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 
Bulbs : the Hyacinth. —Now is the time to com¬ 
mence planting bulbs of all kinds that are hardy and 
intended to bloom early. The hyacinths from Hol¬ 
land this year are, judging from those we have seen, 
fine healthy bulbs. Such of our readers as intend to 
purchase we would advise to lose no time in giving 
their orders. In this trade, as in any other, the rule 
is generally to serve those that come first the best; 
consequently, the stock is often all picked over, and 
the worst roots left for the slow-paced customer. 
This is the case more especially with the hyacinth. 
In other roots, such as narcissus, crocus, jonquil, 
snowdrop, &c., there is not so much difference in the 
roots. It is, however, desirable to have even these 
kinds as soon as possible, and then you can take 
advantage of any fine weather that may occur, and 
put them promptly into the ground. 
There are three ways in which the hyacinth may 
be grown, all of which are familiar enough to our 
readers. First, in the open air in beds, to bloom 
there ; second, in pots, to bloom either in conserva¬ 
tories, greenhouses, or in windows; third, in bulb- 
glasses in water, to bloom in windows. By all these 
ways the hyacinth may be bloomed very successfully 
with a moderate share of right attention bestowed 
at the right time. We shall try to describe the best 
way of carrying out two of these operations. 
Planting in the open air .—The Dutch grow im¬ 
mense quantities of these bulbs, and have the trade 
nearly all to themselves. Large fields in the neigh¬ 
bourhood of Haarlem, and other Dutch towns, are 
devoted to their culture. The soil of Holland is, as 
is well known, of a sandy nature, low, flat, and sub¬ 
jected to the overflow of the sea; in fact, most of 
the country has been reclaimed from the ocean.. The 
soil there is formed of the mud, sand, and other 
deposits of the sea. In this soil those fine bulbs 
are produced which are imported every season so 
largely into this country. In order, then, to flower 
them as fine, and continue their roots in the same 
state of perfection, we must, as far as possible, imi¬ 
tate our neighbours’ soil. Such of our readers as 
live near the coast can easily procure some sea sand, 
but to those who live at a distance the expense of 
carriage would be heavy. River sand in the interior 
might be used, and we think with nearly as good an 
effect. Vegetable mould is also a necessary article 
to mix with the sand; and lastly, some good light 
loam: the proportions to be in equal parts. Mix 
