336 
packing, all the small roots should he cut off, and 
the small ends of the stronger ones. I have heard 
of trees being smeared over with different composi¬ 
tions to exclude the air from them, hut you might as 
well put a black plaster on a man’s mouth and nose, 
and send him to Botany Bay in a sealed bladder, 
as do that. In packing, you cannot put the saw¬ 
dust too close together, as the pitching of the vessel 
will be sure to try its closeness severely. The case 
should be of boards an inch thick, and, if dwarf 
trees are packed, the case should be sufficiently long 
to admit two trees in length, then their roots might 
meet in the centre. If they leave England for Aus¬ 
tralia any time in November, or early in December, 
they will cross the line during their natural winter, 
always the best time for this trial, and they will land 
in the autumn of that country, which corresponds 
to our spring, and that is still in their favour, as 
the Australian winters are generally as mild as 
our springs, the trees would have a long spring to 
recover slowly. They should be planted as soon as 
possible, and very close together for the first year; 
staked, and from the ground up to the bottom of the 
branches they should be covered with moss, if pos¬ 
sible, and tied round and round with hay-bands, or 
bands of some kind, and every two or three days this 
covering ought to be damped. This is the way we 
succeed here with invalids, but, of course, the bands 
must be undone occasionally to see if buds are push¬ 
ing under them. Fuchsias headed down, dahlia 
roots, and many other things of that kind, might be 
sent with them. D. Beaton. 
HOTHOUSE DEPARTMENT. 
Heating. —We lately directed the attention of 
those building new houses to the slope or angle of 
the roof, and the preparing of borders for the plants 
to grow in; we shall now say a few words, in passing, 
upon heating. In our younger days there was little 
besides the smoke flues—anything in the shape of 
steam or hot water was a world’s wonder. The old 
flues are not yet altogether to be despised; in small 
houses there is something to be preferred about 
them. I have had a fair share of practice among 
them, as 'well as with hot water, and found that, if 
sound and well constructed, the one was as easily 
managed as the other; while the saving of fuel, so 
much talked about, by the latter, is often more a 
saving in theory than in practice. If you intend 
constructing a flue, see, for ensuring a draught, that 
the furnace is from a foot to 18 inches lower than 
the opening of the flue. Form the bottom and top 
of the flue of paving tiles, and the sides of brick, set 
in lime putty; place hollow tiles, or bricks, or pans 
of zinc, on the surface, so that when supplied with 
water the air in your house may be moist in propor 
tion to the heat it contains. Raise the bottom of the 
flue from the floor by piers of bricks; and if you 
wish to equalize the temperature plaster the end 
next the furnace, and have the other end unplastered. 
Hot water, however, is fast superseding all such pre¬ 
cautions as the last, being such a good carrier of 
heat that the end next the boiler is seldom much 
warmer than the end farthest from it. The cleanli¬ 
ness of the system, and the absence of all sulphureous 
exhalations, even when a leakage takes place, are 
desirable recommendations. To discuss the various 
modes of heating by hot water pipes would require 
pages ; a few things only must be glanced at. When 
the heating apparatus is only wanted occasionally, a 
September 
small boiler and small pipes will be the most econo¬ 
mical. The flow pipe should have a slight ascent to 
the farther extremity, and the return pipe a similar 
descent to the bottom of the boiler. The number 
and extent of pipes must be regulated by the surface 
of glass, the cubical feet in the enclosed space, and 
the temperature required. When 60 degrees of heat 
are required, which is enough for almost any house 
in cold weather, Mr. Hood divides the cubic measure¬ 
ment of the enclosed space by 30, and the quotient 
will give the number of feet of four-inch pipes suffi¬ 
cient to heat it, when the outside temperature is at 
10° above zero. When the temperature required is 
from 70° to 75°, he divides by 20; and when from 75° 
to 80° are wanted, he divides by 18. If three-inch 
pipes are to be used, then a third must be added to 
the quantity, and so on with other sizes in propor¬ 
tion : an allowance must be made for very exposed 
places. The large stove at Chatsworth, 60 feet in 
height, is heated at the rate of one superficial foot of 
pipe to 30 feet of cubic air, and answers admirably. 
Mr. Hood has also ascertained that 8% square feet of 
surface of boiler will be sufficient to heat 200 feet of 
four-inch pipe, and so on in proportion. When a 
continuous regular heat is required the furnace should 
be so large that part of the fuel may rest in recesses 
at the side of the bars, and the vent for the flue should 
be narrow to moderate the draught; no air should 
be admitted except by the bars, unless a little by a 
revolving opening in the furnace door, for helping to 
consume the smoke. If you resolve upon heating 
with pipes, it will be judicious to have everything 
settled beforehand. Hot water engineers, though 
often abused, are just as honest as other people; but 
frequently after the contract has been made and the 
work commenced, what seem trifling alterations are 
insisted on by the proprietor or gardener, and then 
there is dissatisfaction when these come to be paid 
for in the shape of extras. The chief objection to 
heating by iron pipes is their first expense, and 
having strange workmen upon the premises, though 
for the latter there is no absolute occasion, as the 
matter is simple enough. Hence the tank system— 
the tank being formed of iron, slate, brick, and 
cement, and even of wood, and covered with slate, 
wood, or iron; the open gutter system, with close 
coverings when necessary; the Polmaise system, an 
improved modification of the Killogie of Forsyth—too 
much praised, and perhaps too much blamed, as the 
princijde may be adopted with advantage in many 
houses as an auxiliary;—have all been tried with vari¬ 
ous degrees of success. But instead of leading you 
among such ticklish subjects, we prefer this week 
giving an account of a most economical arrangement 
of plant-stove, forcing house, and greenhouse, heated 
not merely by one boiler, for that is common enough, 
but by means of one small wooden tank, supplied 
with heat from a small conical boiler. Iron pipes 
about a yard in length are fixed to the boiler, and to 
these lead pipes two inches in diameter are attached 
for conducting the water to and from the tank. The 
lead pipes do away with the expense of casting knees 
and bends, and various joints making. The plant- 
stove and forcing-house, for it answers both purposes, 
is sunk below the ground level. 
The greenhouse is at the back of the stove, sepa¬ 
rated from it by a glass division of sashes, and is 
raised a little above the ground level. These sashes 
are made to slide past each other, but this is only 
done when more heat is wanted in the greenhouse 
than can be radiated from the glass division merely, 
i All the artificial heat, therefore, for both places is 
THE COTTAGE GARDENER. 
