TOPOGRAPHY OF ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI TO THE COLUMBIA. 
167 
even where they do appear, not exclusively monopolizing the soil: and though the wild aspect 
and dull colors of the landscape in many and extensive sections might induce a supposition of 
barrenness, the idea must be greatly qualified, if not removed, by the fact that all these regions 
are the pasture-grounds of frequent herds of various kinds of deer, particularly of the graceful 
antelope, with quantities of inferior game and species of vermin, and, last and greatest, the 
unfailing millions of the uncouth and ponderous buffalo. 
On the approach to Fort Benton from the Bear’s Paw mountains, the Highwood, Girdle, and 
other mountain groups south of the Missouri, appear and are passed in succession, exciting the 
traveller’s attention as they stand with reference to the great Rocky range, like the preface of a 
new and interesting book; they all abound in pine, cedar, &c., and are watered by numerous 
small streams, which fertilize the extensive prairie valleys between, the mountains, affording good 
pasture for the game of the country, and large bands of Indian horses. The highest peaks have 
an immediate altitude of about 1,S00 feet, apparently, and the sight of their blue summits makes a 
welcome relief to the monotony of the prairies. Soon the cloudy heights of the Rocky mountains 
come dimly into view, towering in mid air, and rousing all hearts and nerving every arm for 
the things that, in anticipation, are to be attempted and endured; a few days of recruiting, con¬ 
sultation and arrangement at Fort Benton, and the convenient wagons are reluctantly relinquished ; 
every kind of weight that can be dispensed with is set aside ; packs are carefully balanced ; 
exploring parties are arranged for the various routes; long farewells are exchanged, and once 
more the several parties press forward to their most serious task. 
The character of the mountain approaches is as various as the number of passes that have been 
explored. From the sources of Medicine river to the 49th parallel, a distance of over 100 miles, 
the dividing ridge rises so abruptly from the great plains as to present everywhere the appear¬ 
ance of being totally inaccessible, though it is not unlikely that a small determined party might 
scramble through, or over it, at any given point. As seen from the Blackfoot trail, the eastern 
front of the ridge rises with a slope too steep to allow the accumulation of soil, and their naked, 
frowning peaks seem to be conscious of their forbidding greatness, and to threaten destruction to 
the adventurous traveller. In this extent but one practicable horse-trail is known—that called 
Marias Pass, at the head of the same named river—and is of such a difficult and even dangerous 
character, that it is but rarely used; the Indians preferring to cross the mountains by a long 
detour to the south. The relations between the tribes on either side may possibly also affect 
the choice of way. The next is an easy pass on the head of Medicine river, believed to have been 
used by Lewis and Clark ; it is of easy access from the prairies, and maintains the preference 
first given to it for the railroad route. The next, again, is on the south fork of Dearborn river, 
known as Cadolte’s Pass, on the Blackfoot trail, and is, probably, the most difficult of the 'prac¬ 
ticable road-ways, both on the approach and in the pass itself; it was used by the main train of 
the expedition, and will be the subject of further notice in this report. Not many miles farther 
south are two good passes between the forks of Hell Gate river and small streams flowing to 
the Missouri; they are reported as highly favorable for wagon-roads, and are, one or both, no 
doubt, the “grand defile” of the older maps. A sixth pass, called the “Big Hole Mountain,” on 
Wisdom fork of Missouri, and at the head of the St. Mary’s valley, was examined and reported 
upon favorably in time for the preliminary report. At a slight expense it can be made practi¬ 
cable for wagons, and will give a good connexion between the northern and central emigrant 
routes. Other passes were explored by the winter parties; so that a thorough account of the 
mountain passes may be looked for from Fort Hall to the 49th parallel. Although the mountains 
will, of course, be made more fully known when the surveys are brought to a close, enough, 
however, is known from the surveys received to give a good general idea of the configuration of 
the mountain country between the 46th and 49th parallels. 
The dividing ridge from the 49th parallel, approximate longitude about 113° 30', runs in a 
general course of south-southeast about 180 miles, to the passes mentioned at the head of Hell 
