196 
GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. 
is described. Five thousand two hundred feet below us lay the Columbia, apparently almost at 
our feet: so small and insignificant did it appear, that we could not believe it to be the “Great 
river.” In front of us the Cascade range extended directly to the river, crossing it in fact; so 
that, to the north and west, there was nothing to be seen but mountain piled on mountain— 
rugged and impassable. About* west-northwest was a handsome snow-peak, smaller than Mount 
Baker; as it is not to be found on any previous map that I know of, and had no name, I called 
it Mount Stuart. Far in the distance to the northward was seen a range, running nearly east 
and west, alongside of which the Columbia flows before reaching Okinakane. That portion of the 
Cascade range which crosses the Columbia sinks into an elevated plateau, which extends as far 
as the limit of vision to the eastward—this is the Spokane plain. On it we could see no indication 
of water; not a single tree, except on the mountain spur; not one spot of verdure. It was of a 
dead, yellowish hue, with large clouds of black blending into the general tinge. It appeared to 
be a sage desert, with a scanty growth of dry bunch-grass, and frequent outcroppings of basalt. 
Descending by a very steep trail, we reached the valley of the Columbia on the 21st. Through 
a valley about a mile in breadth, in which not a tree is to be seen, and seldom even a bush, and 
which is bordered by steep walls of trap, lava, and sandstone, often arranged in a succession of 
high plateaux or steps, the deep, blue water of the Columbia flows with a rapid, powerful current; 
it is the only life-like object in this desert. The character of the valley is much the same as far 
as Fort Okinakane. It occasionally widens out slightly; again it is narrowed by the mountains 
pressing in. Sometimes the trail passes over the lower bottom; at other, over very elevated and 
extensive terraces; and in a few places over dangerous points of the mountains. At one of the 
latter, three miles above the En-te-at-kwu, two of our mules were instantaneously killed by falling 
over a precipice, and two others seriously injured. The difficulty of the trail at this point may 
be imagined from the fact that we were occupied from 11 o’clock a. m., until dark, in passing 
the train over a distance rather less than two miles. 
In this portion of the valley a few small groves of pine are met with; but the general character 
is entire absence of trees and bushes. In places only is the grass good; but we found no great 
difficulty in so regulating the marches as to obtain enough for the animals. The soil is so very 
sandy that it is not probable it can ever be applied to any useful purpose. Granite, gneiss, and 
syenite, occur in the valley in large quantities, and of excellent quality. At the time of our visit 
the Columbia was 371 yards wide just above the mouth of the Pisquouse; at the camp of Sep¬ 
tember 23d its width was 329 yards, the surface velocity 3.6 miles, mean velocity 2.9 miles per 
hour; at the camp of September 24th the width was 330 yards, surface velocity 3.45 miles per hour; 
mean velocity 2.94 miles per hour. These velocities were taken at points where the strong current 
is near the shore; we had no means of reaching the middle of the stream, so that the velocities 
as given may be a little less than the true velocity. 
The beach between high and low-water mark is composed of rounded pebbles. 
From the vicinity of the Yakima Pass I saw the rough mountains in which the Pisquouse heads; 
from the divide between it and the Yakima we saw the country through which it runs. From the 
inferences thence drawn, and the accounts of the Indians, as well as the nature of the valley near 
its mouth, it appears certain that there can be no pass at its head for a road. 
The next stream worthy of notice is the En-te-at-kwu. This has so small a valley—a mere 
ravine in fact—as to cut off all access to the dividing ridge in that direction. 
The next water-course is that issuing from Lake Chelan. It is a short stream, formed of a 
succession of cascades and rapids. The lake itself is some thirty miles long, and is shut in by 
high mountains, which leave no passage along its margin ; the mountains at its head will be 
alluded to in connexion with the Methow river. Before leaving the subject of this lake, I will 
state that the ascent from the valley of the Columbia to Lake Chelan could not be accomplished 
by a railway without an inclined plane, even were there a good pass up its valley. 
