200 
GENERAL REPORT ON WESTERN DIVISION. 
mensurate with the difficulty of the undertaking, and determined to retrace my steps. The 
Indians represented the snow to be up to the arm-pits at the Nook-noo, and as increasing thence 
to the pass, at the summit of which it would be found to be about twenty-five feet in depth. Mr. 
Tinkham found but seven feet at the summit on the 21st of January; yet I am of the opinion 
that in the most unfavorable portions of ordinary winters the statement of the Indians will be 
found to be quite near the truth; at all events, I do not think that any important conclusion should 
be based on the results of Mr. Tinkham’s trip ; they ought to be verified later in the year, and, if 
possible, during a winter not so unusually dry as this was up to the time of Mr. Tinkham’s 
passage. For a winter station, with the object of examining the depth of snow, the prairie at 
the foot of the Nook-noo falls would be a proper position. 
The valley of the Sinahomish and Snoqualme is of pure sand, covered with an inch or two of 
decomposed vegetable matter, with the exception of a small prairie on the right bank of the 
Snoqualme, some ten miles below, and a larger one about two miles above the falls. 
There may be more of these small prairies of which I heard nothing. Some are said to exist 
on the Skywhamish. The bluffs of the stream are generally of sand, clay, and gravel; occasionally 
of conglomerate and argillaceous rock. 
If there is any coal near the Sinahomish it will probably be found at some distance from the 
river, in a bluff'about twelve miles from the mouth. The timber in the valley is generally poor; 
it principally consists of cotton-wood, maple, and alder: the fir and cedar are generally very 
indifferent; in some small tracts they are good. The bottom is usually wide, flat, and subject 
to overflow. There are extensive cranberry swamps near the mouth of the Sinahomish. This 
stream has three outlets, and has formed a low, sandy delta. The Sinahomish is navigable for 
small steamers for about twelve miles from its mouth; it forks about eighteen miles from the 
mouth, the Skywhamish being rather the larger fork of the two. Below the forks the average 
width of the Sinahomish is some fifty yards. The Snoqualme is much obstructed by rapids, which 
increase in number and strength as the falls are approached. I estimated the height of the falls at 
from one hundred and thirty to one hundred and fifty feet; they are exceedingly beautiful. The 
ledge over which the river passes at this point is of conglomerate. Similar falls exist at the 
foot of Lake Nook-noo, on the Skywhamish, the Stoluquamisb, and Skagitt. On the 12th we 
encamped on the head of MacDonough’s island, intending to proceed to Bellingham bay; but 
during that night six inches of snow fell, and during the next day so violent a gale blew from the 
north that our canoes could not proceed. On the 14th we turned back, and reached Olympia on 
the 21st of January. During this trip the weather was intensely cold, the thermometer being as 
low as zero; we endured some discomfort from snow, cold rains, and sleet. 
Before I left Vancouver for Olympia, Mr. Gibbs went to Astoria with the intention of attempting 
to pass from there, via Shoalwater bay and the Willopah river, direct to Olympia. The trail being 
entirely overgrown by vine maple, it was impossible for him to get through at that season of the 
year with the provisions he was obliged to carry; it became necessary for him to turn back before 
he reached the head of the Willopah. His report on the subject will give the detailed informa¬ 
tion he obtained with regard to that section of the country. I will merely state that the valley 
of the Willopah is about thirty miles long, by some ten or twelve in breadth; it is thickly over¬ 
grown with vine maple, and occasional large trees; the soil is rich, though somewhat light. On 
the Chehalis are a number of prairies, many of good soil, especially on the south fork. The whole 
country is, with the exception of these prairies, densely overgrown with fir, cedar, and spruce. 
There are many mountain ridges, some of which are quite extensive. The south fork of the 
Chehalis and Gray’s river head in a quite high peak. 
In my railroad report of February 8th, I gave my reasons for considering Seattle as the best 
terminus for a railway on the eastern shore of the sound. In any future examinations it would 
be advantageous to examine a line leading to Port Discovery. The advantages of that harbor, 
