242 
NAVIGABILITY OP THE MISSOURI. 
southwest, runs near the 48th parallel to the mouth of the White Earth, and then suddenly 
turns to the south-southeast and south. This is called the “Great Northern Bend of the 
Missouri.” 
Besides this river, the great features of this region are the Yellowstone, which takes its rise in 
the Rocky mountains not far from the headwaters of the Missouri; the Black Hills, which, 
starting from the Platte not far above Fort Laramie, pursue a north-northeasterly direction par¬ 
allel to the Little Missouri, and finally become blended with the bluffs of the Missouri east of 
Fort Union; and the Grand Coteau or ridge, which, running nearly parallel to the Missouri at 
an average distance of about forty miles, connects, according to my information, with the Rocky 
mountains north of the 49th parallel, and divides the waters of the Missouri from those of the 
Saskatchewan, from those of the Red river of the North, and from those of the Mississippi. I 
think it unquestionable that only in a far-distant future will any great extent of this country be 
inhabited by white people. The valleys of the streams alone seem now to present inducements. 
Tite hills and ridges are generally covered with a nutritious grass, more sought after by cattle 
than that in the valleys. The great variety of flowered plants to be met with gives a degree of 
beaut} 7 to the undulating plains. 
The following is a general statement of the ease of navigation of the Missouri above Fort 
Pierre. As far as the mouth of the White Earth the obstructions are comparatively few, and 
the navigation safe ; although the main fact on which I state this, the ease and speed with which 
we passed over that portion of the river, is partly due to the light draught, three and a half feet, 
of the steamboat above Fort Pierre. Above the mouth of the White Earth the river has an 
exceedingly tortuous course, and is impeded by an unusual number of sand-bars, snags, &c. In 
addition to which, above Fort Union it becomes much more narrow, and is very rapid at all 
bends, many of which, instead of being curves, are nearly in the form of aright angle. It was in 
this part of the river that it was noticed nearly every tributary corresponded to an island in the 
Missouri near its mouth—sometimes below, sometimes above. This is, perhaps, due in part to 
the difference in velocity of the streams. 
The “cretaceous formation” continues for some distance above Fort Pierre, and is succeeded 
by the formation of clay and marl containing beds of lignite, which continue to the mouth of 
the Poplar. As the water of the Missouri at Fort Benton is clear, and as from the Poplar to the 
Mississippi it has a deep muddy color, this, it seems to me, must be imparted by the flow through 
the clay and marl formation. 
We left Fort Pierre early on the morning of the 21st. The bluffs at this place are about four 
miles from each other, and equally distant from the river. During the day I noted many points 
that were suitable for settlements ; they had a tolerably rich soil and produced fine grass. The 
river in many places w*as well timbered with cotton-wood, intermingled with which was a small 
quantity of ash. Cedars were observed in small numbers in the ravines. Many tracts of dead 
trees standing were seen on the “Burnt Hills” along here; there were noticed indications of 
“slides,” and of the earth having caved in, probably on account of combustion in the interior. 
On the 22d, the river was wide and not very rapid. We had to halt early in the afternoon on 
account of a high wind. 
On the 23d, the character of the river and country was not materially different from what it 
was observed to be on the 22d. 
On the 24th, it was found difficult to procure a sufficiency of fuel. In the afternoon we passed 
the “ Grindstone Buttes”—a singular group of hills, whose sides slope from the prairie at angles 
of from 30° to 45°. They were covered with grass, but no trees were observed to grow on them. 
Of a great extent of this portion of the river, both below the mouth of the White Earth and 
above Fort Union, it may be remarked that, outside of the river bluffs, there are plains or terraces 
several miles wide, and from which rise other ranges of hills or bluffs. For some distance above 
the “Grindstone Buttes,” it is characteristic that many similar hills, or groups of hills, occur on 
