FROM THE COLUMBIA VALLEY TO FORT OWEN. 
253 
Saturday , Jidy 23.—Raised camp at 3 o’clock, and were in inarch by 7 a. m., and advanced 
twenty-five miles to Willow creek, a small stream among the willows. The day has been 
intensely hot; our course was nearly parallel with the Columbia, about seven miles distant. We 
met many emigrants from Ohio and Illinois bound for California, Oregon, and Washington; they 
appeared wearied and wayworn, and were comforted by our assurance that the Pacific would 
soon put a period to their westward land-wandering. They wished us a good speed in our 
enterprise as only those hardy pioneers can who have walked over the route from Missouri to the 
Pacific States. 
Sunday, July 24.—Thermometer at sunrise 61°; barometer 29.774. Marched thirty-five miles 
over a heath without trees or water to Butter creek. Day intensely hot, and some of our animals 
gave out. Butter creek is a fine cold stream, winding through a meadow covered with the most 
luxuriant grass. These beautiful streams are the redeeming features of this otherwise sterile 
region. I do not know why this is called Butter creek; but when its beautiful and fertile banks 
become the pasturage of herds of cattle, with an industrious population, its destiny will be 
accomplished, and the appropriateness of its name justified. 
Monday , July 25.—Thermometer 53°; barometer 29.544. All hands roused at 3 a. m., but 
our animals not having been picketed, had strayed, and much time and labor were spent in col¬ 
lecting them. The loss of animals by stampedes, and straying, is one of the most annoying inci¬ 
dents of travel in this region. 
In consequence of the great heat we advanced but fifteen miles, and encamped in a pleasant 
spot on the banks of the Umatilla river. 
Near our camp we were met by a delegation of Cayuse braves, sent by the chief of the Nez 
Perces, to ascertain our object in passing through their country. They had been told that we 
were coming to make war upon them, and take away their horses. We assured them that such 
was not our object; that we had been sent by the great Chief of us all, at Washington, on a 
mission of peace to all the Indian tribes on both sides of the mountains, and asked them to invite 
their chief to come to our camp, and smoke the pipe of peace with us. In the evening the old 
chief came and smoked the pipe of peace with us, promised to be always friendly, and said that 
he was glad that our “ hearts were good.” The Nez Perces are a rich and powerful tribe, and 
own a great many horses. They cross the mountains yearly to hunt buffalo on the plains of the 
Missouri. They have a much shorter route to St. Mary’s village, but it is too mountainous for us 
to take. The Bitter Root range of mountains between this and St. Mary’s presents too great 
obstacles to the construction of a railroad. It is, therefore, necessary for us to go to the north¬ 
ward by the northern shore of Lake Kalispel. At this place we leave the emigrant trail, where 
it turns off towards the South Pass. 
Tuesday , July 26.—Thermometer at sunrise, 62°; barometer, 29.6S4. Started at 2 a. m., on 
account of the indications of an extremely hot day before us; marched twenty miles, and 
encamped on the Columbia, within ten miles of Wallah-Wallah. It has been the hottest day of 
the season; men and animals suffered severely. Twelve miles of our route was over burning 
sands, destitute of vegetation; the animals sunk deeply into it at every step; its temperature was 
found to be, in several places, 150°; one of the mules gave out, and a poor tired horse tumbled 
over a precipice; his pack being of heavier material than his body, followed the law of gravita¬ 
tion, and came first to the ground, leaving the animal with his feet sticking in the air. He was 
assisted to regain his proper position, and quietly proceeded on his journey, his looks manifestly 
indicating his resignation to any fate that might befall him. 
The pioneer who explores this interesting region must be prepared for all sorts of discourage¬ 
ment. Its vast desert wastes, dense forests, snow-capped mountains, and deep ravines, are 
obstacles which will call for all his energies and the exercise of his whole stock of philosophy. 
Here he will find himself surrounded by the grandest tokens of those mighty convulsions of nature 
which heaved up to the skies the ancient ocean beds. 
