LINE OF THE MARIAS PASS. 
281 
would be less than two feet. In this elevated route, with the depth of the snow, there was a very 
remarkable and unexpected mildness of temperature. The temperature was never quite so low 
as the extreme endured on the prairies, and the weather was occasionally warm. The snow, 
as a mass, was damp, and generally more or less incrusted. Several small falls of snow occurred 
during the passage, and the trees and bushes were always heavily loaded with snow. There 
was but little high wind, and generally it was nearly calm, and, as I have already said, the air 
was for most of the time thick and misty. 
A few miles from the mountains I found the Nez Perces Indians—remaining with them nearly 
a week. Their horses and cattle, with some young calves, were grazing in the river valley and 
slopes. The short grass of the river bottom was still bright and green. In the small gardens of 
the Indians, pea-vines, started from the seed of the summer crop, were several inches high, and 
the whole appearance of the valley was in contrast with the cold and snow of the mountains. 
A slight fall of snow occurred while 1 was there. 
On the 30th day of December I reached Wallah-Wallah. 'The wooded country ends with 
the mountains, and then commences the great plain known farther north and west as the great 
Spokane Plain, and through which, in deep channels, flow the Clearwater, Snake, and Wallah- 
Wallah rivers, and other and smaller streams. There is a great deal of good land along the 
whole route through this section. The bottom lands of the Clearwater were to some extent culti¬ 
vated by the Indians, and looked fertile—a dark, gravelly soil. Their corn was of good size and 
heavy; wheat of good weight. Corn, wheat, peas, potatoes, and melons, are produced by the 
Indians. The upland plains, where I traversed them, showed a good dark soil, exposing 
fragments of trap-rock, and were generally clothed with good grass, on which were feeding 
large bands of Indian horses. Mr. Craig, who lives on the Lapwai among the Nez Perces, 
about forty-five miles from the mountains, has about eight acres of land under tillage, with 
opportunity for extending his field as he pleases. Peas, corn, wheat, squashes, onions, potatoes, 
melons, &c., all thrive well here, and Mr. Craig spoke favorably of the productiveness of the soil. 
His field was on the river bottom, while the hills bordering on the river afforded excellent pas¬ 
turage for horses, cattle, and goats. On the high plain between the Clearwater river and his house 
I found eight inches of snow, lasting only for a short distance. There was none on the Lapwai, 
and none thence to Wallah-Wallah. The Clearwater, Lapwai, Tokannon, Touchet, Wallah- 
Wallah, with other small streams tributary to Snake river, have a great deal of fertile, tillable land 
upon them, which, at an early day, will attract attention from its farming qualities. Most of these 
streams are scantily wooded. The wild flax, of good quality, is to be found in all this region. 
Leaving the Touchet river and approaching Wallah-Wallah, we enter upon the sandy, wild- 
sage plain, in the midst of which that post is established. This post I reached just before New 
Year’s day of 1854; the weather continuing mild, without snow. 
I must, in conclusion, gratefully mention the members of my party : Pearson and French, who, 
from the snow-camp, attempted to regain the St. Mary’s valley with the animals, and, as we have 
since learned, succeeded with the loss of but five ; and artificers Wilson, Agnew, and Brocken, who, 
with me, crossed the Bitter Root mountain with pack and snow-shoes, and who maintained a steady 
cheerfulness under circumstances of reasonable apprehension, with unusual discomfort and fatigue 
Our guide, Charleer, a handsome Nez Perces lad, showed himself to be thoroughly acquainted 
with the particular route we travelled, and was very faithful. 
Much information in the power of a guide to impart is lost when he is such that your only 
means of communicating with him are by signs. It is always desirable, in similar explorations, 
to be able to converse with your guide directly or through an interpreter. 
I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
A. W. TINKHAM. 
Governor I. I. Stevens, 
Chief of North Facific Railroad Exploration Survey. 
36/ 
