VOYAGE IN A CANOE FROM FORT OWEN TO VANCOUVER. 
293 
aggressions made upon them by the Blackfeet, and their own migratory habits, it was found inad¬ 
visable to keep up the mission among them. It was accordingly abandoned three years ago. 
They still remember the good teachings of the missionaries, as evinced by their honesty and chas¬ 
tity. Although few in number, they are very brave, and invariably attack the Blackfeet when 
they meet. The custom of scalping dead enemies is abandoned by them. Owing to the incur¬ 
sions of the Blackfeet, who steal their horses, they have but a few good animals left—so few, that 
some are prevented from buffalo hunting in consequence. They raise some wheat and potatoes, 
but depend principally on the chase for subsistence. They have quite a large number of cattle; 
these they corral at night to prevent them from being killed by the Blackfeet. The latter Indians 
do not steal cattle as they do horses, but kill them out of malice. The brothers Owen purchased 
the mission buildings of the priests, and established a private trading-post. This is called Fort 
Owen. It is surrounded by the Flathead village, numbering sixteen wooden houses. The soil 
of the valley is exceedingly fertile. Cattle do not generally require foddering in the winter, the 
snows are so light. All the numerous streams abound in fine trout. Grouse in the valleys and 
on the mountains, bear, deer, elk, beaver, and mountain sheep, are abundant. Buffalo were for¬ 
merly in great numbers in this valley, as attested by the number of skulls seen and by the reports 
of the inhabitants. For a number of years past none had been seen west of the mountains; but, 
singular to relate, a buffalo bull was killed at the mouth of the Pend d’Oreille river on the day I 
passed it. The Indians were in great joy at this, supposing that the buffalo were coming back 
among them. In addition to the foregoing, I collected considerable information respecting the 
missions, and the past and present condition of the Indian tribes on my route. Much of this is 
contained in my journal, from which I take the following extracts. 
November 6, 1853.—Thirty-two miles below Lake Kalispelm. To-day, after paddling ten miles 
along the river, which is here about three-fourths of a mile wide, we got into swifter water and 
a quick succession of rapids. The nineteenth mile brought us to our last portage this side of the 
mission of St. Ignatius, (R. C.) Here an island blocks up and dams the river, which relieves 
itself on both sides of the island by a cascade of about six and a half feet perpendicular fall. 
In the middle of the island is a cleft, now dry, which becomes a third channel in high water. 
Below the island a bay makes in to within thirty feet of the water on its upper side. Over this 
thirty feet of rock we made a portage of our stuff, and dragged our boat across. I learn that 
about thirty-five miles to the north there is a beautiful sheet of water called Lake Rootham. It 
is about the same size as Lake Kalispelm, and, like it, beautifully clear, and surrounded by lofty 
mountains, but surpasses the latter in beauty by the great number of small islands it contains. 
The outlet of the lake enters Clark river about five miles above the fall. From Lake Rootham 
a mountain ridge runs south-southwest to the iSpokane country, a distance of about seventy miles. 
The river and ridge intersect at the fall, the island between being wrought into its present shape 
by the continual action of the water. According to the accounts of Indians and hunters, with 
the single exception of the break in its continuity, produced by the river at this point, the summit 
presents an almost dead level, and would offer many advantages in this respect for a trail or a 
wagon road. This range is much lower than the others in its neighborhood, and is free from 
snow in the summer. The occurrence of a natural level for a distance of seventy miles may, in 
future, be turned to great advantage. The fall on Clark river, in all probability, affords one of 
the best natural sites for manufacturing and milling purposes that can be found anywhere. The 
island not only forms a mill-site of incalculable water-power, but it affords an unyielding and 
safe foundation, secure from damage during the highest freshet. In the neighborhood of the fall 
there is but little land suitable for cultivation. The soil on the craggy hill-sides is thin, and at 
present covered with a dense growth of heavy timber. After making the portages, we proceeded 
two and a half miles down the river and encamped for the night. 
November 7.—Made an early start. Paddled nine hours. At dusk we encamped with some 
Indians, on the left bank of the river, about half a mile above the outlet of Lake Debeoy. There 
