318 
ROUTE FROM FORT BENTON TO ST. MARY’S VALLEY. 
left bank, finding good grass, wood, and water; our camp being where the main party camped 
on the night previous. The night was cool, with a heavy frost. 
September 30, 1853.—Commences misty and cool, but towards ten o’clock becomes a beautiful 
bright day. 
We resumed our journey, at 7.30 a. m., up the Bitter Root valley, by a very excellent road, 
crossing several small tributaries coming in from the west, making one crossing of the Bitter Root 
river about ten miles from our camp of last night. At a distance of six or seven miles farther 
we halted on a small stream from the east, about three miles below the St. Mary’s village, the 
sight of which we all greeted with feelings of joy. We were visited here by several Flathead 
Indians, who informed us that “ Suryarpees” arrived yesterday, meaning thereby the expedition. 
Resuming our march, we reached the village at 3 p. m., on the twenty-second day from Fort 
Benton. Here we were met by the Governor and several members of the expedition, who had 
expected us in much sooner. Mr. Lander’s party, whom we started in search of, arrived safely. 
Our Indian delegation was presented to the Governor, who talked with them as the represent¬ 
atives from their tribe, setting forth the good intentions of the government, &c. We were glad 
to find ourselves at our journey’s end. 
Taking now a retrospective view of our route from Fort Benton, we saw we had made a great 
bend, when leaving the Missouri, to the south-southeast, over a line of one hundred and thirty 
miles, to the Muscle Shell river; thence southeast, over a line of sixty miles; thence westward, 
across the main chain of the Rocky mountains, to the Bitter Root valley, over a distance of two 
hundred and twenty-five miles, crossing in the interval the source from whence flow both the 
waters of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. In addition to crossing several small streams which 
empty their waters into the Missouri, we had followed to its head one of its principal tributaries— 
namely, the Muscle Shell river—crossing the ridge of the mountains from which it receives its 
source; crossing the Missouri far to the south, near to the gate of the mountains (the great land¬ 
mark of the country) through which it issues; and thence, across the main chain of the mountains, 
to the headwaters of Clark’s fork of the Columbia. From the dividing ridge of the mountains, 
and even for thirty miles to the east, I can say, from actual examination, that the route travelled 
by my party down the Little Blackfoot fork, and thence by the Hell Gate river to the Bitter Root 
valley, is perfectly practicable for wagon trains. There are, it is true, some obstructions at 
present, such as timber and loose rocks and stones; but with very little labor it can be made not 
only a practicable, but a beautiful wagon road. The valley of both the streams mentioned affords 
the greatest abundance of rich and nutritious grass, and their borders are all well timbered with 
an abundant supply of wood; thus affording the two great requisites on a wagon road. 
Most of the road is over a beautiful prairie valley, which Nature herself seems intentionally to 
have formed for the passage of wagon trains. It is true that the mountain-streams have to be 
crossed quite often, but there is a ford at every crossing. The banks are low, and the beds are 
all hard and covered with pebbles and gravel; thus affording every facility for the passage of 
wagon trains. There are no mountains to cross—no sloughs, no coulees, or other obstructions. 
With regard to the connexion from Fort Benton to within thirty or forty miles of the dividing 
ridge on the east, I cannot express an opinion from what I saw; but, from information gathered 
from the hunters and trappers of the mountains, it is said that “there is a practicable wagon road 
from Fort Benton to the mountains, and across the mountains by the route we travelled,” which 
road crosses the Missouri twice, both places giving an excellent ford with a hard bottom. 
Here, therefore, exists in the mountains a broad open pass, through which it is possible that, 
ere many years shall have passed, a broad emigrant trail will lead from the Atlantic to the Pacific 
Can it be otherwise? Can the advantage possessed by the Missouri river, flowing as it does 
through the very heart of our country, proved by actual experiment to be navigable for a dis¬ 
tance of twenty-two hundred miles, and which from reliable authority is said to be navigable for 
light-draught steamers to the foot of the mountains—can it be, I say, that, when we have steam- 
