FROM BITTER ROOT VALLEY TO FORT HALL. 
325 
valley, passing over the mountain about twelve miles north of the divide, where we crossed it. 
In this prairie bottom we found encamped several lodges of the Nez Perces Indians, with large 
bands of horses. We crossed the fork of the Bitter Root running through this prairie, through 
which How two other head branches of the Bitter Root river, the extreme source being about 
four miles to the east, coming from a range of mountains forming the dividing ridge of the Mis¬ 
souri and Columbia waters. We found the grass up the valley, and especially in this prairie 
bottom, most excellent. Such prairies as the one met to-day, and to be met with in crossing the 
mountains in every direction, are called “Holes.” In fact, the Rocky mountains in this region 
are made up of ridges of mountains and patches of prairies, varying from ten to thirty miles in 
length, and as many in width. In Ross’s Hole the grass we found to be about six inches long and 
quite green. The day has been very mild and pleasant, the genial rays of the sun making every¬ 
thing bright and summer-like; the thermometer at 2 p. m. standing 47°, at 9 p. m. 36°; and 
during the afternoon we were visited by a slight shower of rain. We made during the day 
twenty-five miles, and camped on the extreme south branch of the Bitter Root river, where we 
found good grass, wood, and water. Our camp being only a few yards distant from about twelve 
or fifteen lodges of the Nez Perces, they were anxious and curious to know our business through 
this portion of the mountains. We were visited during the night by numbers of them, who sat 
up talking around our camp-fires till near midnight. They told us they were just returning, with 
their families, from the buffalo hunt; that they had with them on the hunt about eighty lodges, 
and that they were on their way to the main valley of the Bittrr Root river, where they intended 
passing the winter. They were very glad to see us, and leaving the next morning they all assem¬ 
bled to bid us God-speed. The Ross’s Hole referred to is where Messrs. Lewis and Clark first 
met the Flatheads on their expedition to the Pacific in 1804. There is a chief among the Flat- 
heads by the name of Moise, who told me that he was present when Lewis and Clark visited 
their camp in Ross’s Hole, and that they took what is known here as the Southern Nez Perces 
trail (the same that Mr. Tinkham followed to Wallah-Wallah) on their way to the Pacific, fol¬ 
lowing the Bitter Root river to its forks. 
December 4, 1853.—Commences pleasant, the thermometer at sunrise standing at 3S° Fahren¬ 
heit. We were delayed till nearly eleven o’clock, our animals having strayed some miles from 
camp. By invitation, the chief of the Nez Perces visited our camp, and took breakfast with us. 
Having, after a long search, found our animals, we commenced our day’s march by ascending a 
very high and steep mountain, known as the Big Hole mountain. The western slope of this 
mountain we found perfectly clear of snow, affording a very excellent road, though up a very 
steep ascent. On arriving near its summit we found the snow twelve inches deep; the ther¬ 
mometer, which at its base stood 47°, on its summit stood 36°; we were one hour and a 
quarter in ascending this mountain. Very fortunately, the Nez Perces, who had just crossed the 
mountain with several hundred horses, had beaten the road well for us, affording an excellent 
path till we reached the Big Hole prairie. This mountain is about six thousand feet high, and 
its summit snow-capped; wagons coming from Fort Hall cross it. The road is very good for 
loaded wagons in descending the western slope, but in ascending I am of the opinion that it is 
impracticable. There is no difficulty for empty wagons, however, in ascending it. The descent 
towards the Missouri side is very gradual—so much so, that were it not for the direction taken 
by the water, you would think you were passing over almost a level prairie valley. This 
mountain is covered with the white pine, growing to a height of from fifty to seventy feet. We 
found the mountain to be of a granite formation, a specimen of which was collected from some 
broken fragments that lay along the slopes of the mountain. This is the same formation as occurs 
throughout the Bitter Root valley, with the exception that the mica is not found in such large 
quantities. We passed several Nez Perces lodges in crossing the mountain, with many animals 
loaded with meat and furs. This has been a great hunting season with all the Indians, both east 
and west of the mountain. Hundreds of thousands of buffalo have been slain, and small game— 
