346 
FROM FORT 1IALL TO HEAD OF HELL GATE RIVER. 
rendered travelling exceedingly dangerous for both men and animals. Below us was a preci¬ 
pice of one hundred feet; here one of the animals missed his footing and rolled to the bottom. 
We were enabled to make but eight miles’ march to-day, camping on the right bank of the Hell 
Gate river, where we found excellent grass for our animals. We were compelled to build a 
large fire to dry our baggage—wet during the crossings. Our chapter of misfortunes now seemed 
to have commenced; and although we estimated that we were but sixty miles from our main 
camp on the Bitter Boot river, we could form no idea when we should arrive there. It continued 
snowing the whole night. 
January 8, 1S54.—Commences mild, and comparatively pleasant. The ice, however, made 
an inch thick during the night. We resumed our march at 9 a. m., crossing the Hell Gate river 
within a few yards of our camp, where we experienced much trouble in crossing our animals. 
The channel was open, with water two and a half feet deep; current very rapid. The margin, 
however, on each side for several feet was blocked with ice. Our trail, to-day, lay principally 
through a beautiful pine forest. Travelling a distance of twelve miles, we encamped on the right 
bank of the Hell Gate river, finding scanty fare for our animals, the snow being from three to 
six inches deep. The weather has been mild to-day till 7 p. m., when it commenced raining, 
which continued throughout the night. 
January 9, 1854.—Commences mild and rainy, which continued till 8 a. m., partially melting 
the snow, and rendering our travelling much better than it had been for several days past. I 
despatched Gabriel, the guide, this morning for our main camp on the Bitter Root river, to have 
certain preparations made on our arrival. We resumed our march at 9.30 a. m., and at the dis¬ 
tance of a mile struck the Big Blackfoot, which we crossed with some difficulty. We made the 
crossing of the main stream of the Hell Gate river, below the mouth of the Big Blackfoot, without 
difficulty; and also the crossing of the Bitter Root river, where we found the ice about three 
inches thick. Travelling a distance of twenty-two miles, we encamped upon the left bank of the 
Bitter Root river, where our animals were amply repaid for their scanty fare of the last few 
nights by an abundance of rich grass. The weather, to-day, has been exceedingly warm and 
pleasant, though towards sunset it became cold, with a slight fall of snow in the valley, while 
heavy snow-clouds covered the tops of the mountains on each side of the valley. We thus found 
ourselves once more in the Bitter Root valley, and there was no one who regretted it. 
January 10, 1854.—Commences mild and pleasant. We resumed our march at 8 a. m. up the 
Bitter Root valley, crossing the Bitter Root river with an open channel, and arrived at Fort 
Owen at 2 p. m., where we were kindly received by the proprietors, the Messrs. Owen. Spend¬ 
ing the night under their hospitable roof, we reached our main camp on the next day; finding 
here that our winter quarters had been completed, corral for animals, and everything built, and 
the men comfortably in cantonment. Here was camped the whole Flathead tribe of Indians, 
who were awaiting our arrival. Thus we found ourselves at the main camp after an absence of 
forty-five days, during which time we had crossed the mountains four times, completely turning 
the eastern portion of the Bitter Root range by a line of seven hundred miles, experiencing a 
complete change of climate, and crossing two sections of country different in soil, formation, natural 
features, capability, and general character. Crossing also, in all their ramifications, the head¬ 
waters of the two great rivers, Missouri and Columbia, we had now a fine opportunity to com¬ 
pare the climate and character of the Bitter Root valley with that of the Hell Gate, and others 
in its vicinity. In the former snow was found from four to six inches deep, while in the latter 
the ground was perfectly free from snow. It seemed as if we had entered an entirely different 
region and different climate; the Bitter Root valley thus proving that it well merits the name 
of the valley of perennial spring. The fact of the exceedingly mild winters in the valley has been 
noticed and remarked by every one who has ever been in it during the winter season; thus 
affording an excellent rendezvous and recruiting station for the Indians in its vicinity, and to 
those sojourning in it, as well as all others who might be overtaken by the cold or snow of the 
