MISSOURI RIVER FROM GREAT FALLS TO MOUTE OF MILK RIVER. 
489 
account of some difficulty with the Indians, which rendered it advisable for the company to with¬ 
draw their post to some point lower down the river. We passed also three small islands and a 
large one known by the name of “Cache island,” just below which, and nearly opposite the 
mouth of the Maria river, we moored our boat for the night. 
The banks of the river to-day have varied from one hundred to one hundred and sixty feet in 
height; its bed has been very crooked and composed entirely of loose gravel—the stream perfectly 
clear and transparent. The current flows with a tolerably uniform velocity of about 2.7 miles 
per hour, except at some points where its unusual shallowness gives a slight increase of rate. 
The river is considered at this season of the year to be at its lowest stage of water; the depth of 
water, therefore, found upon any rapid, may be considered as the minimum depth for that point. 
A number of rapids and shallows have been passed during the day, of which the only ones 
worthy of notice are, a shallow about five miles below Fort Benton, with only fifteen inches of 
water on the bar; one opposite the site of old Fort McKey, with twenty inches; and one about 
five miles above the mouth of the Marias, with twenty-two inches. The increase of current at 
either of these points is not material. 
Beaver are very numerous along the river, and they appear to be very hard at work laying in 
their winter supply of provisions. At every willowy point they have made great havoc among 
the willows and small cotton-wood. They select their winter quarters with a sharp eye to the 
proximity to forage, and if possible establish their domicil near a growth of small cotton-wood. 
In the fall they fell what, in their judgment, is sufficient to last through the winter, cut it into 
convenient lengths, and sink it before the entrance of their holes. If they are obliged to go any 
distance from the bank for their supply, after it is cut they pack it to the water on their backs. 
They commence their labors immediately after dark, and continue them till daybreak. 
Soon after supper one of our men went out with his rifle and shot three, but secured only one, 
which he shot through the head. The other two were only wounded, and they quietly betook 
themselves to the bottom of the stream. They invariably sink unless instantaneously killed. 
The day’s travel has been 20.8 miles, following the river. 
September 23.—Last night was quite cool, cloudy, and windy. This morning was clear, cool, 
and bracing. My men bivouaced in a small clump of willows on shore, but I preferred sleeping 
in the boat, which had been made very comfortable by springing bows over it and covering it 
with canvass to protect us from the rain. The beaver killed last night was dressed, and the most 
of it, including the tail, was cut up and boiled for breakfast. Cooked in this way it is very 
tender and well flavored, particularly the tail, which is a luxury that would compare favorably 
with anything upon the table of an epicure. It tasted to me as much like calf’s-foot jelly as any¬ 
thing I can liken it to, though it is very hearty and has a peculiar flavor. One tail is enough for 
a dinner for three men. The skin was stretched by making perforations around the edge and 
lacing it with strings upon a hoop somewhat larger in circumference than the skin. Its original 
proprietor must have been very industrious, as I observed he had worn the fur nearly off both 
his shoulders in carrying wood. 
Soon after commencing our day’s journey we passed the mouth of the Marias, a very sizeable 
stream emptying into the Missouri from the north. Like the Missouri, it winds its way at the 
bottom of a wide and deep canon; but the faces of the canon are generally more abrupt than 
those on the latter river—so much so, that it is a matter of difficulty sometimes, to one unac¬ 
quainted with the country, to find a place where a pack-mule can be driven up or down the 
banks. The enclosed valley is from half a mile to a mile wide. Its soil is rich and moist, and 
supports a luxuriant growth of grass and cotton-wood in abundance, with some alder and wild- 
cherry trees. The river at its mouth is about one hundred yards wide, its water clear, and its 
bottom rocky. The first trading-post established in the Blackfoot country was situated near its 
junction with the Missouri. 
We passed during the day some small unwooded islands. The general character of the banks 
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