494 
MISSOURI RIVER FROM GREAT FALLS TO MOUTH OF MILK RIVER. 
now becoming mostly clay and sand, and the few islands passed to-day have been pointed off by 
sand-bars at both ends, Missouri fashion. The bluffs are lower and more receding than yester¬ 
day, particularly on the north side. 
About 2 o’clock we came unexpectedly upon a band of elk, swimming the river, and suc¬ 
ceeded in killing a fine doe, which came very opportunely, as our supply of big-horn was entirely 
exhausted. About 5 o’clock we camped on the head of a large wooded island, under the banks 
of which there were a great number of beaver lodges. About sunset two buffalo came down 
from the main land and swam the river, just below camp. Intent upon getting a hump rib, I 
started in pursuit, and by creeping along under cover of a deep fringe of willows, approached 
within ten paces of the hindmost one, and, taking deliberate aim about two feet below the hump, 
which was the only part to be seen above the willows, fired. The old bull (as it turned out to 
be) elevated his short tail straight in the air, and, with one grunt, put off at full speed into the 
woods; and though I trailed him, by the blood, for more than three-quarters of a mile, I lost him 
at last; probably in some thicket, where he deposited himself for the benefit of the wolves. A 
sick or wounded animal stands but a little chance of recovery, for the wolves follow and harass 
him till, through exhaustion, he lies down perfectly helpless, when they proceed to make a meal 
of him before the life is out of his body. Distance travelled to-day, 30 miles. 
October 1.—This morning was clear and frosty again, and every sound was echoed and re¬ 
echoed with long vibrations as we floated down the stream. 
The river to-day is in all respects very similar to what it was yesterday, but gradually grow¬ 
ing a little wider. The banks on both sides are somewhat broken, and in places quite high. 
The general course of the river changed about 9 o’clock from nearly southeast to nearly due 
south as far as the mouth of the Muscle Shell, a very considerable stream emptying in from the 
south, which was passed about noon. I did not measure its width, but judged it to be consider¬ 
ably less than one hundred yards. It is very low now, but earlier in the season it probably throws 
in a large body of water. Its bed is very similar to that of the Missouri at its junction ; and, like 
it, it is skirted with low grounds well covered with cotton-wood. 
A short distance above the mouth of the Muscle Shell we stopped to lunch, and afterwards 
picked up several interesting specimens of fossil remains of shell-fish of different forms and sizes, 
and procured others still more perfect, by breaking open loose fragments of limestone that had 
fallen down from the banks. 
About 2 o’clock, coming to a portion of the river comparatively straight, we saw a herd of 
buffalo on the bank about two miles below, preparing to cross. They did not all descend to the 
water’s edge at once, but one or two pioneers and leaders of the band kept in advance, apparently 
to try the bottom lest it should prove miry, and the whole herd get swamped. The bottom 
proving satisfactory, the leaders plunged in, followed by the whole band, who landed safe on the 
other side. One would think they found it very hard work, for in swimming they grunt so as to 
be heard distinctly a mile. Below this they have learned by experience to be very cautious in 
selecting a crossing-place, for the flats near the water’s edge are sometimes nothing but quick¬ 
sand, or tenacious clay, very difficult to work through. At one point, some distance below the 
mouth of Milk river, I saw five wolves hopelessly mired near a dead buffalo, who had met with 
the same fate. We went ashore, and found that the clay was so much dried up as to admit of our 
approaching their place of incarceration, when, by dint of prying with sticks and palling at their 
tails, we succeeded in releasing them, so much exhausted as to be scarcely able to crawl. They 
must have lain there a week. 
But to return to the buffalo: one of the men killed one, a fat cow, and we selected the finest 
parts and went on our way. 
Camped about 3 o’clock. At about 5 p. m. one of the men, who had been out hunting, came 
in and said he had seen a “ war party” of about sixty Blackfeet going into camp, just around the 
bend above us. Such neighbors are by no means pleasant; and not having any particular desire 
